Koni/Redshift Coilovers - Page 26

**Cookstar** · 08-29-2008, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

It was down earlier when I checked it. I believe their rights to the domain had expired and they had to renew.

honda93 · 09-27-2008, 11:15 PM

After spending the last two weeks with my race-valved DA rears, I can say with confidence that I will be needing to make a decision on fronts sooner rather than later. The question now is do I wait for an FSD insert, or have Bilstein make me up something?

Anthony "Mario" Crea
NNJR-SCCA

2point · 11-11-2008, 12:14 PM

I'm bringing this back from the dead. How are people doing with their setups?

honda93 · 11-11-2008, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2point

I'm bringing this back from the dead. How are people doing with their setups?

My custom valved DA's are stored in their box for the winter (salt will never touch these things).

I'll put them back on in late March.

Anthony "Mario" Crea
NNJR-SCCA

BigMoney8481 · 11-11-2008, 10:06 PM

I have the yellows. I like them. I had trouble with the front struts because Redshift used never seize on the threads which caused the caps to come loose and the strut inside the housing was clunking around bad. Then I had to try and fix it myself with the tool they sent but it was a piece of junk and was not proper for the application at all. I ended up using industrial locktite for larger then 1" diameter threads and a big pair of pliers to snug down the cap to the housing. I then clear coated the whole strut.

I believe now they are welding the caps shut to the housing once they get it as tight as possible but I'm not 100% on that.

CanyonDriver · 11-11-2008, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigMoney8481

I have the yellows. I like them. I had trouble with the front struts because Redshift used never seize on the threads which caused the caps to come loose and the strut inside the housing was clunking around bad. Then I had to try and fix it myself with the tool they sent but it was a piece of junk and was not proper for the application at all. I ended up using industrial locktite for larger then 1" diameter threads and a big pair of pliers to snug down the cap to the housing. I then clear coated the whole strut.

I believe now they are welding the caps shut to the housing once they get it as tight as possible but I'm not 100% on that.

lets hope they are. thats very unlike redshift to eff something up that bad.

BigMoney8481 · 11-11-2008, 10:12 PM

Well welding that caps wouldn't be ideal if you wanted to remove the strut to repair damage or wanting to use a different unit. It would absolutely be better than using never seize.

2point · 11-12-2008, 12:46 AM

to save and buy or get drop springs now, that is the question haha!

CanyonDriver · 11-12-2008, 01:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2point

to save and buy or get drop springs now, that is the question haha!

save up and buy. lowering springs for the most part are a waste.

honda93 · 11-12-2008, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigMoney8481

I ended up using industrial locktite for larger then 1" diameter threads and a big pair of pliers to snug down the cap to the housing. I then clear coated the whole strut.

Isn't the Industrial Loctite red in color? IIRC, red is permanent, correct? Would the blue stuff (removable) have done the job just as well, considering the fact that many people just rebuild Koni's?

Anthony "Mario" Crea
NNJR-SCCA

BigMoney8481 · 11-12-2008, 11:20 AM

I don't know what other kinds of loctite could be used. I know all the regular stuff (green, blue, red) they sell is for use with thread diameter <1". I had to go through an environmental company my friend works at to get the industrial >1" diameter applications.

RedShiftChris · 11-17-2008, 02:05 PM

Yeah, the red is industrial strength. You need heat to remove it. That's how we've chosen to assemble all front housings now so that we never have an issue with them coming apart. I always used to assemble them with anti-seize; so that's why I did it this time. Not anymore. :)

And the cheap wrench we sent was something that we got and modified to make work. It doesn't need to be crazy tight on the strut; so I thought it was ok. Sorry about that. We use one that is similar in dimension for production assemblies and it works fine.

Chris

honda93 · 11-17-2008, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedShiftChris

Yeah, the red is industrial strength. You need heat to remove it. That's how we've chosen to assemble all front housings now so that we never have an issue with them coming apart. I always used to assemble them with anti-seize; so that's why I did it this time. Not anymore. :)

And the cheap wrench we sent was something that we got and modified to make work. It doesn't need to be crazy tight on the strut; so I thought it was ok. Sorry about that. We use one that is similar in dimension for production assemblies and it works fine.

Chris

Chris,

Assuming Koni used their SPSS3 valving, can more low speed compression be dialed into the DA housing? Or is the shock pretty much maxed out now?

Thanks.

Tony

LinkBacks (?) LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspension-brakes/75996-koni-redshift-coilovers.html
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09-27-2008, 11:15 PM	#502 (permalink)
honda93 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Property Tax Hell... NJ Age: 34 Posts: 1,004 iTrader: 2 / 100%	After spending the last two weeks with my race-valved DA rears, I can say with confidence that I will be needing to make a decision on fronts sooner rather than later. The question now is do I wait for an FSD insert, or have Bilstein make me up something? Anthony "Mario" Crea NNJR-SCCA

11-11-2008, 12:14 PM	#503 (permalink)
2point Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: AZ Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0%	I'm bringing this back from the dead. How are people doing with their setups?

11-11-2008, 10:06 PM	#505 (permalink)
BigMoney8481 Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Smithfield, RI Age: 19 Posts: 607 Randy iTrader: 1 / 100%	I have the yellows. I like them. I had trouble with the front struts because Redshift used never seize on the threads which caused the caps to come loose and the strut inside the housing was clunking around bad. Then I had to try and fix it myself with the tool they sent but it was a piece of junk and was not proper for the application at all. I ended up using industrial locktite for larger then 1" diameter threads and a big pair of pliers to snug down the cap to the housing. I then clear coated the whole strut. I believe now they are welding the caps shut to the housing once they get it as tight as possible but I'm not 100% on that.

11-11-2008, 10:12 PM	#507 (permalink)
BigMoney8481 Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Smithfield, RI Age: 19 Posts: 607 Randy iTrader: 1 / 100%	Well welding that caps wouldn't be ideal if you wanted to remove the strut to repair damage or wanting to use a different unit. It would absolutely be better than using never seize.

11-12-2008, 12:46 AM	#508 (permalink)
2point Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: AZ Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0%	to save and buy or get drop springs now, that is the question haha!

11-12-2008, 11:20 AM	#511 (permalink)
BigMoney8481 Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Smithfield, RI Age: 19 Posts: 607 Randy iTrader: 1 / 100%	I don't know what other kinds of loctite could be used. I know all the regular stuff (green, blue, red) they sell is for use with thread diameter <1". I had to go through an environmental company my friend works at to get the industrial >1" diameter applications.

11-17-2008, 02:05 PM	#512 (permalink)
RedShiftChris Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 593 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Yeah, the red is industrial strength. You need heat to remove it. That's how we've chosen to assemble all front housings now so that we never have an issue with them coming apart. I always used to assemble them with anti-seize; so that's why I did it this time. Not anymore. :) And the cheap wrench we sent was something that we got and modified to make work. It doesn't need to be crazy tight on the strut; so I thought it was ok. Sorry about that. We use one that is similar in dimension for production assemblies and it works fine. Chris