Suspension clunking may be caused by....

si_civic · 11-01-2007, 12:00 AM

Front camber kits???

Skunk2 contacted me about the front end clunking I happen to have with my Skunk2 Lowering Springs and they asked me what brand of camber kit do I have.... It is still being investigated but having Honda replaced BOTH my struts and the clunking is the EXACT same leads me to believe it's either my springs or the camber kit.

To be continued.

Subscribed to own thread lol....

***Sirbelch*** · 11-01-2007, 12:22 AM

What front camber "kit" do you have? The only way to adjust camber in the front without an adjustable camber plate (which I doubt you have) is with the camber bolts. The camber bolts replace the stock bolts that bolt the strut to the hub assembly. If those are loose, you better go tighten them up before your suspension flys appart at 80 mph.

Highrev1 · 11-01-2007, 12:57 AM

Check your Steering rack...My Steering rack bolts were loose and the rack was falling off its mounting location. Get the rack checked first, then the top hats that would be my FIRST two choises.

si_civic · 11-01-2007, 02:09 PM

Good call. Yes, it's only a bolt kit. I should make sure if they are tight or not. Thanks guys

Highrev1 · 11-01-2007, 02:12 PM

WHat did you TQ the cam bolts to? They should be like 100 ftl;bs...Also I don't suggest reusing them as they stretch.

I would wager to say that it is the exteme drop the skunk springs provide.

si_civic · 11-01-2007, 02:27 PM

This would make sense as the clunking got louder over time. I will ask my speed shop to check all the stuff over. If the bolts look messed, I'll get a different brand, like SPC.

Thanks HighRev1 !

4ADAM12 · 11-01-2007, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Highrev1

WHat did you TQ the cam bolts to? They should be like 100 ftl;bs...Also I don't suggest reusing them as they stretch.

I would wager to say that it is the exteme drop the skunk springs provide.

I don't think the spec is over 80ft/lbs maybe 77 or 79ft/lbs, but I could be wrong.

***jdmstylesi*** · 11-01-2007, 09:44 PM

This is just from prior installations I have done.
On a McPherson strut, you really need to make sure you pre-load the spring to make sure it is seated correctly. You also need to make sure the upper bolt (connected to the piston, at the top) is tight. I have had customers come in with those botls hand tight, not good.

The pre-load is essential, and will cause uneven lowering, clunking, un-even steering, etc. 350z/G35 are prone to this also.

si_civic · 11-01-2007, 10:31 PM

Sweet information, thanks!

I will ask these questions asap. How does one preload a McPherson strut?

***Sirbelch*** · 11-01-2007, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by si_civic

Sweet information, thanks!

I will ask these questions asap. How does one preload a McPherson strut?

You need a threaded shock body with an adjustable spring pearch (coilovers) in order to raise the pearch up high enough so the spring is pushing against the upper mount. This way the spring won't full uncompress and start to rattle around.

si_civic · 11-01-2007, 10:38 PM

^ I don't think my shop did this...

Do you think the shock is bottoming out? Could that be the sound?

***Sirbelch*** · 11-01-2007, 10:53 PM

They can't adjust pre load unless you have a threaded shock body.
I'm sure the suspension is bottoming out on big bumps.

Highrev1 · 11-01-2007, 11:24 PM

No such thing as PRe-load.

***Sirbelch*** · 11-01-2007, 11:29 PM

Revy, you know what I mean. Preload doesn't effect handling but it does keep the spring from becoming completely uncompressed to where the spring will come out of its seat. Preload is a bad term but that is what it is called.

si_civic · 11-02-2007, 12:10 AM

Well, either or, I am getting everything 100% checked out. If the cam bolts are fine and struts + shocks, then I'm swapping out these cheap SKunk2 springs for Eibachs.

Highrev1 · 11-02-2007, 12:31 AM

***jdmstylesi*** · 11-02-2007, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Highrev1

No such thing as PRe-load.

Just like crack and herion dont exist..sure.
I hope you never lowered a vehicle.

To the OP, call me up if you need ANY HELP at all. I would be glad to help you out

Rob

Highrev1 · 11-02-2007, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdmstylesi

Just like crack and herion dont exist..sure.
I hope you never lowered a vehicle.

To the OP, call me up if you need ANY HELP at all. I would be glad to help you out

Rob

Explain Pre-load then....You know I have proven many times, that Pre-load as I understand the common misconception of it is a farse so why don't you explain it to me.

***Sirbelch*** · 11-02-2007, 02:42 AM

Pre load only comes in to play during droop travel when the spring is extended passed its resting length. It helps keep the spring in the seats. Pre load is a bad term and should be changed. Pre load has no effect on handling, just noise making. I don't think you can argue that Revy.

***Whocares05050*** · 11-02-2007, 02:44 AM

Watching

11-01-2007, 12:00 AM	#1 (permalink)
si_civic Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: B.C. ,Canada Age: 30 Posts: 4,607 A/Cst.D.F.Abate iTrader: 10 / 100%	Suspension clunking may be caused by.... Front camber kits??? Skunk2 contacted me about the front end clunking I happen to have with my Skunk2 Lowering Springs and they asked me what brand of camber kit do I have.... It is still being investigated but having Honda replaced BOTH my struts and the clunking is the EXACT same leads me to believe it's either my springs or the camber kit. To be continued. Subscribed to own thread lol....

11-01-2007, 09:44 PM	#8 (permalink)
*jdmstylesi* 8thcivic Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Dumpland, Ca Posts: 625 Mr. RoBear iTrader: 29 / 100%	This is just from prior installations I have done. On a McPherson strut, you really need to make sure you pre-load the spring to make sure it is seated correctly. You also need to make sure the upper bolt (connected to the piston, at the top) is tight. I have had customers come in with those botls hand tight, not good. The pre-load is essential, and will cause uneven lowering, clunking, un-even steering, etc. 350z/G35 are prone to this also. __________________ RoBearRacing.com - From Drag to Drift!! CIVIC SI TUNER - CLICK HERE JDM "H" Honda Badges - Authentic - ALWAYS IN STOCK SKUNK2 Products - Best Service and Pricing - We will beat Ebay!!

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11-01-2007, 12:22 AM	#2 (permalink)
*Sirbelch* Louder than 4 F404-GE-400 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vacaville CA Age: 27 Posts: 5,636 Paul iTrader: 1 / 100%	What front camber "kit" do you have? The only way to adjust camber in the front without an adjustable camber plate (which I doubt you have) is with the camber bolts. The camber bolts replace the stock bolts that bolt the strut to the hub assembly. If those are loose, you better go tighten them up before your suspension flys appart at 80 mph.

11-01-2007, 12:57 AM	#3 (permalink)
Highrev1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: PM me NothernNJ Installs/Details Posts: 3,801 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Check your Steering rack...My Steering rack bolts were loose and the rack was falling off its mounting location. Get the rack checked first, then the top hats that would be my FIRST two choises.

11-01-2007, 02:09 PM	#4 (permalink)
si_civic Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: B.C. ,Canada Age: 30 Posts: 4,607 A/Cst.D.F.Abate iTrader: 10 / 100%	Good call. Yes, it's only a bolt kit. I should make sure if they are tight or not. Thanks guys

11-01-2007, 02:12 PM	#5 (permalink)
Highrev1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: PM me NothernNJ Installs/Details Posts: 3,801 iTrader: 1 / 100%	WHat did you TQ the cam bolts to? They should be like 100 ftl;bs...Also I don't suggest reusing them as they stretch. I would wager to say that it is the exteme drop the skunk springs provide.

11-01-2007, 02:27 PM	#6 (permalink)
si_civic Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: B.C. ,Canada Age: 30 Posts: 4,607 A/Cst.D.F.Abate iTrader: 10 / 100%	This would make sense as the clunking got louder over time. I will ask my speed shop to check all the stuff over. If the bolts look messed, I'll get a different brand, like SPC. Thanks HighRev1 !

11-01-2007, 10:31 PM	#9 (permalink)
si_civic Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: B.C. ,Canada Age: 30 Posts: 4,607 A/Cst.D.F.Abate iTrader: 10 / 100%	Sweet information, thanks! I will ask these questions asap. How does one preload a McPherson strut?

11-01-2007, 10:38 PM	#11 (permalink)
si_civic Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: B.C. ,Canada Age: 30 Posts: 4,607 A/Cst.D.F.Abate iTrader: 10 / 100%	^ I don't think my shop did this... Do you think the shock is bottoming out? Could that be the sound?

11-01-2007, 10:53 PM	#12 (permalink)
*Sirbelch* Louder than 4 F404-GE-400 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vacaville CA Age: 27 Posts: 5,636 Paul iTrader: 1 / 100%	They can't adjust pre load unless you have a threaded shock body. I'm sure the suspension is bottoming out on big bumps.

11-01-2007, 11:24 PM	#13 (permalink)
Highrev1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: PM me NothernNJ Installs/Details Posts: 3,801 iTrader: 1 / 100%	No such thing as PRe-load.

11-01-2007, 11:29 PM	#14 (permalink)
*Sirbelch* Louder than 4 F404-GE-400 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vacaville CA Age: 27 Posts: 5,636 Paul iTrader: 1 / 100%	Revy, you know what I mean. Preload doesn't effect handling but it does keep the spring from becoming completely uncompressed to where the spring will come out of its seat. Preload is a bad term but that is what it is called.

11-02-2007, 12:10 AM	#15 (permalink)
si_civic Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: B.C. ,Canada Age: 30 Posts: 4,607 A/Cst.D.F.Abate iTrader: 10 / 100%	Well, either or, I am getting everything 100% checked out. If the cam bolts are fine and struts + shocks, then I'm swapping out these cheap SKunk2 springs for Eibachs.

11-02-2007, 12:31 AM	#16 (permalink)
Highrev1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: PM me NothernNJ Installs/Details Posts: 3,801 iTrader: 1 / 100%

11-02-2007, 02:42 AM	#19 (permalink)
*Sirbelch* Louder than 4 F404-GE-400 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vacaville CA Age: 27 Posts: 5,636 Paul iTrader: 1 / 100%	Pre load only comes in to play during droop travel when the spring is extended passed its resting length. It helps keep the spring in the seats. Pre load is a bad term and should be changed. Pre load has no effect on handling, just noise making. I don't think you can argue that Revy.

11-02-2007, 02:44 AM	#20 (permalink)
*Whocares05050* WHOcaREs05050 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: SOFLA Age: 22 Posts: 14,455 Mike iTrader: 7 / 100%	Watching