Brake options

[Adri CiViC]

Originally Posted by Moose

Hmmm ... My Data shows a 10.8" front rotor ... but the aftermarket says 10.3" ... not to sure what to say here. I will investigate further.

Moose

Any new news?

[VenomEX07]

Ok. I'll only be using the factory 16" 5 spoke alloy's in that size. When I do get rims I'll be getting a nice set of 18's for summer cruising, and swaping factories back on for the cruddy weather parts of the year. Good to know if I decide to go with Si fronts, thanks.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Adri CiViC

Any new news?

LX/DX/EX have 10.3" rotors ... not 10.8(that was a typo)

The info has been corrected in the first post

Moose

[aki]

Whenever I look at this thread, I fantasize getting a 2-pc slotted BBK from FastBrakes. Only to show-off though, haha. Then I feel guilty for my shallowness.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by aki

Whenever I look at this thread, I fantasize getting a 2-pc slotted BBK from FastBrakes. Only to show-off though, haha. Then I feel guilty for my shallowness.

My guilty pleasure is AP racing 4 piston Monoblocks with full floating two piece rotors

Moose

[deltatechx]

I can't decide on which rotors to get. I Have an '06 Civic LX sedan w/ MT all stock except for Tokico shocks & struts. I drive about 3,300 miles a week, mostly highway driving but I do heavy breaking on the back roads (avoiding deer, and a lot of "spirited" driving around corners). I currently have 214,000 miles on my original rotors which are severely warped ATM, Honda says it's because of the Duralast Gold pads that I use (actually, they say it's because I'm not using Honda pads -- imagine that). The tech at Honda also said that if I get my oem rotors machined, they'll just warp again within a few thousand miles due to the "aftermarket" pads. I definitely want to go with EBC but can't chose between the slotted/dimpled Sport Rotors or the blanks. I also want to keep the Duralast Golds since they have a lifetime replacement warranty (I just take my old ones in and they give me a new set on the spot with no charge). I've been told (can't remember by who) that driving long distances on the highway (no braking just straight 75 mph driving) can generate a lot of heat on the rotors, so seeming how most of my driving is on the parkway I figured the slotted/dimpled rotors would be best. My question is, would I be able to use the blanks and not have to worry about the heat build up from long distance driving and heavy breaking around corners (they're about half the price of the Sport Rotors, so it'll be easier on the checkbook) or should I go ahead with the Sport Rotors -- I'm looking for longevity more than stopping power, but better stopping power is always good too :P

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanx,
-Paul

[Moose]

Originally Posted by deltatechx

I can't decide on which rotors to get. I Have an '06 Civic LX sedan w/ MT all stock except for Tokico shocks & struts. I drive about 3,300 miles a week, mostly highway driving but I do heavy breaking on the back roads (avoiding deer, and a lot of "spirited" driving around corners). I currently have 214,000 miles on my original rotors which are severely warped ATM, Honda says it's because of the Duralast Gold pads that I use (actually, they say it's because I'm not using Honda pads -- imagine that). The tech at Honda also said that if I get my oem rotors machined, they'll just warp again within a few thousand miles due to the "aftermarket" pads. I definitely want to go with EBC but can't chose between the slotted/dimpled Sport Rotors or the blanks. I also want to keep the Duralast Golds since they have a lifetime replacement warranty (I just take my old ones in and they give me a new set on the spot with no charge). I've been told (can't remember by who) that driving long distances on the highway (no braking just straight 75 mph driving) can generate a lot of heat on the rotors, so seeming how most of my driving is on the parkway I figured the slotted/dimpled rotors would be best. My question is, would I be able to use the blanks and not have to worry about the heat build up from long distance driving and heavy breaking around corners (they're about half the price of the Sport Rotors, so it'll be easier on the checkbook) or should I go ahead with the Sport Rotors -- I'm looking for longevity more than stopping power, but better stopping power is always good too :P

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanx,
-Paul

Blanks are just fine ... you will only be generating heat under braking

Moose

[aznchzexr]

your the best moose, i was in the market for new brakes i'm glad I came across this.

[SiViC06]

F-ing amazing. I have learned so much! Thanks for your effort and wisdom good sir!

Sivic06 - MyMiniCity

[FusionSi11]

Hey Moose

I am planning on getting some new brake pads. My two options were the Axxis ULT ceramics and Hawk HP Plus. However, i read your review on the G5 and they are about the same price as the Axxis ULT. What do you recommend? What do you prefer between the two. It looks like the Hawk HP Plus is out of my price range. Also, which will last longer if it's just for street use? I've lasted on the OEM pads for 53k miles.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by FusionSi11

Hey Moose

I am planning on getting some new brake pads. My two options were the Axxis ULT ceramics and Hawk HP Plus. However, i read your review on the G5 and they are about the same price as the Axxis ULT. What do you recommend? What do you prefer between the two. It looks like the Hawk HP Plus is out of my price range. Also, which will last longer if it's just for street use? I've lasted on the OEM pads for 53k miles.

My Personal Favorite Perfomance Street pad is the PRB/AXIS Ultimate (Ceramic) ... cheap and good. The HP+ is a bit bettter BUT it dusts more, is a bit noisier when cold and is more expennsive. The Grandsport GS5 is also good if you can find it ... it is a bit closer to the HP+ I would say.

In Terms of longetivity ... I could not tell you ... I never run my pad to end ...they get swapped out well before the end of their life.

Moose

[Live by SI]

Hi Moose, thanks for putting this great thread together. I don't know where you find the time.

I am at the crossroads as to what direction to take as in going with either a designated change at the track set up tires (RA-1's) & brake pads (Hawk Blues) and rotors (B.B.) or my current configuration.

If I wish to stay with an arrive and drive set up I need advice on front pads, I realize that this is a compromise.

Can you suggest a front pad to go with my Motul fluid R.B.F. 600 and Falkin Azenis' R615's, I am currently running on machined OE fronts rotors.
I have Hp+'s on the rear but I eat through these things on the front especially after extended lapping most recently with Hada at the Fabi track.

I have an FG2 and always seem to run with Big Boned passengers, making me over 3100 pounds wet. I am also a very late on the brakes, you can ask Miles about this.

YouTube - Shannonville lapping at the Hada event

I don't care about dust (non toxic) and squealing as it's nothing the radio can't fix.

I have heard good things about Project Mu's (HC+) but are they streetable and are they that much more than Hp+'s.
Their web site is an literal straight Japanese to English translation, probably done by some computer program and it makes it very difficult to determine which one is best for my needs.

What is the most aggressive and durable under high operating Temps brake pad that can be ran on the street and would it be compatible with Hp+'s on the rear. I don't want to effect the brake distribution thing. If the MU's are significantly higher priced could you suggest a more cost effective option.

I wish they still made GS3's.

Thanks again hope to see you at the track sometime to get my camber bolts.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Live by SI

Hi Moose, thanks for putting this great thread together. I don't know where you find the time.

I am at the crossroads as to what direction to take as in going with either a designated change at the track set up tires (RA-1's) & brake pads (Hawk Blues) and rotors (B.B.) or my current configuration.

If I wish to stay with an arrive and drive set up I need advice on front pads, I realize that this is a compromise.

Can you suggest a front pad to go with my Motul fluid R.B.F. 600 and Falkin Azenis' R615's, I am currently running on machined OE fronts rotors.
I have Hp+'s on the rear but I eat through these things on the front especially after extended lapping most recently with Hada at the Fabi track.

I have an FG2 and always seem to run with Big Boned passengers, making me over 3100 pounds wet. I am also a very late on the brakes, you can ask Miles about this.

YouTube - Shannonville lapping at the Hada event

I don't care about dust (non toxic) and squealing as it's nothing the radio can't fix.

I have heard good things about Project Mu's (HC+) but are they streetable and are they that much more than Hp+'s.
Their web site is an literal straight Japanese to English translation, probably done by some computer program and it makes it very difficult to determine which one is best for my needs.

What is the most aggressive and durable under high operating Temps brake pad that can be ran on the street and would it be compatible with Hp+'s on the rear. I don't want to effect the brake distribution thing. If the MU's are significantly higher priced could you suggest a more cost effective option.

I wish they still made GS3's.

Thanks again hope to see you at the track sometime to get my camber bolts.

Well - this is timely. I just got back from a lapping Morning at Dunnville - one of the toughest tracks in Southern Ontario on brakes ... AND I AM BRUTALY Hard on brakes to start with. This plus a heavy car with a heavy front weight bias and you have issues.

HP+ just do not have enough grip and heat capacity when tracking the 8th Gen's

I am currently trying out Project Mu HC+(Titan Kai's) up front with Project Mu HC+ out back With Pentosin Racing Fluid (Simlar Specs to Motul 600)

This combo worked really well at Shannonville, with only a bit of softness at the end of a long session. WELL at Dunnville they went off ... soft pedal and less grip. I had a couple of big "OFFS" where I just could not get teh car slowed down to make the corner.

So I am not as impressed with these dual use pads (street / track) as I used to be ... Don't get me wrong they are very good ... BUT not Dunnville-proof.

Soooo I think I am going to have to take another step into a true race pad that still has decent cold performance. I suspect that Hawk Blues may be the way to go ... but I may try out some PFC's

As for the Camber bolts ...drop me a line when you are in west end and you can grab them off me.



So to answer your question ... if you are planning to LAP alot then get a second set of dedicated front race rotors/pads

Moose

[Live by SI]

Thanks Moose, how many laps were you running in succession, as I have run Dunnville with Hp+'s all around and was fine. We would do about 7 lap sessions. Now mind you this was at a Hada school where speeds were moderate as many came out for the first time. I was on street tires as well.

I found with the higher speeds at Shannonville and my better rubber that the pads just were not able to keep up. They kept me on the track, relatively, but they were gone to the backing plate. These were the only two events they saw.

I like Hp+'s especially for the price, but I wish for something more durable.

Hope those "OFFS" were not to serious, I have mowed the lawn at Dunnville but it was more driver fade than brake fade.

I'll be in touch.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Live by SI

Thanks Moose, how many laps were you running in succession, as I have run Dunnville with Hp+'s all around and was fine. We would do about 7 lap sessions. Now mind you this was at a Hada school where speeds were moderate as many came out for the first time. I was on street tires as well.

I found with the higher speeds at Shannonville and my better rubber that the pads just were not able to keep up. They kept me on the track, relatively, but they were gone to the backing plate. These were the only two events they saw.

I like Hp+'s especially for the price, but I wish for something more durable.

Hope those "OFFS" were not to serious, I have mowed the lawn at Dunnville but it was more driver fade than brake fade.

I'll be in touch.

I am not too sure how many laps as I was giggling to much to pay attention ... about 10 I would say ...I was running on 235-40-17 Toyo RA1's for reference

The Off's were rough ...lots of rocks, gravel and weeds. ..

Ist one was not to bad ...just kind of ran out of track

2nd one was a bit ugly ... No pedal pressure and slid off a med sweeper a bit sideways ... I ripped the right front fender liner right out

The 3rd one finished the day for me ... I lost it on exit from Curve Grande - back end stepped out at arround 140 km/h (87MPH), caught it, and it then it tank slapped me and I spun it huge into the weeds at the pit entry ... broke the bead on RF tire (filled it with gravel) ... put some small rock dents into the door and fender, and gained a Check engine light

So it was a good day ...hey I was chasing Porshe's and passing most of them

Moose

[Live by SI]

It's sounds like you had a good time.

[Live by SI]

Here is my FG2 at Dunnville with Miles, my instructor at the time behind the wheel. April 08'

Good commentary, personally I cannot talk and drive. This is a must see for anyone wanting to learn the Dunnville lines.

HP+'s all around, Motul R.B.F. 600 and Yoko Prada Spec II's (215/40/18) wear rating of 300, they died that day and have since been replaced.


YouTube - Dunnville lapping event put on by Hada

[csxian]

Who sells PRB Ultimate?

[Moose]

Originally Posted by csxian

Who sells PRB Ultimate?

Evasive does, a site sponsor .... they sell AXIS ...which is the same as the PBR

Honda: Evasive Motorsports - PH: 626.336.3400, M-F 9am - 5pm PST

[BigMoney8481]

that link is for the S2000 fronts and rears. Did we figure out if these are the same pads for the Si's yet?