Brake options

[Moose]

Originally Posted by GeezerSi

I am ready to replace my stock SI pads with Hawk hps street/sport pads. Do I really need to resurface my stock rotors before installing/bedding them? If so, assuming the rotors are running true, what's the recommended way to resurface them?

Thanks.

The "Best" way is to get them turned ... however I have had success preping them for new pads as long as the following is true -

-The are thicker than OE service minimum (measured at 8 points arround the rotor) 19mm non si, 23mm Si
-They are within limits for run-out (warp) 0.04mm
-They do not have an excessive "lip" of metal arround the inner and outer rotor face where the pad material stops. (this lip can cut the new pad)
-They are not excessivley rusty / corroded

If they meet the crtiteria above then you can generally prep them for new pads.

-I will run a random orbit sander with 120 grit paper in a circular motion, arround the rotor, never stopping in one place untill you get an even criss cross pattern of clean metal on both sides. this makes sure you have a virgin surface to bed the new pads into.

The risk of a "home resurfacing" is that surface even after sanding is skued / not flat and will wear poorly / unevenly your new pads.

I found this process works best with race pads, as they are aggressive / abrasive and do a good job of "wearng" the rotor straight, and is less effective with street pads. I also like to used Seasoned rotors with track pads as they seem to bed in better.

It really depends on how good or bad your rotors are to start with. Do YOU want to risk screwing up your new pads for the cost of a new set or rotors or the cost to turn them ?


Moose

[GeezerSi]

I will turn the rotors.

[SiAzul]

I havent yet but Ill read this thread when I come back home, I was quoted by my local dealership $415 parts and labor for front and rear pads on my Si, my dads mechanic who does all his oil changes charged me $438 for front and rear pads plus Castrol oil change plus balance and rotation. He told me he would use OEM honda pads, do you guys think this is a good deal? would it be difficult for me to replace my own pads next time? BTW he drives a 04 or something hatch SI haha

[FALer]

Originally Posted by SiAzul

I havent yet but Ill read this thread when I come back home, I was quoted by my local dealership $415 parts and labor for front and rear pads on my Si, my dads mechanic who does all his oil changes charged me $438 for front and rear pads plus Castrol oil change plus balance and rotation. He told me he would use OEM honda pads, do you guys think this is a good deal? would it be difficult for me to replace my own pads next time? BTW he drives a 04 or something hatch SI haha

It's nothing special, and, no, it wouldn't be difficult to change your own pads. Why do you need front and rear pads at the same time? You ought to get around two brake jobs on the front axle for every rear.

[aznchzexr]

I replaced my stock pads on my ex sedan with EBC green stuff pads and cross drilled/slotted rotors for the front. Does the job well IMO.

[SiAzul]

Originally Posted by FALer

It's nothing special, and, no, it wouldn't be difficult to change your own pads. Why do you need front and rear pads at the same time? You ought to get around two brake jobs on the front axle for every rear.

?? dont ask me, I hadnt changed my brakes at all, now at 34000 miles, and last oil change, my dealer told me my rear pads were gonna need to be changed by the next oil change and this time I took it to my dads mechanic and he told me I needed both. He also told me that sometime before 50000 I should flush me antifreeze??

I dont know if any of this wouldve been covered in the $400+ 30k service honda wanted to perform

[circuit hero]

awesome thread

[Firestrife]

Question is DOT 5.1 alright in our cars or is it way too much?

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Firestrife

Question is DOT 5.1 alright in our cars or is it way too much?

As long as it is not silicon based it is fine


Moose

[TurboBlue]

So i just changed both my front and rear stock si pads to Hawk HPS pads 2 days ago. All other brake parts are stock. I read so many reviews about people saying how much of a difference it was. But i honestly don't feel any great difference!! I bedded the brakes according to the instructions too. That's really strange..it's certainly not like an obvious night and day difference. Any ideas anyone?

[jrotax101]

Did you turn the rotors?

[TurboBlue]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Did you turn the rotors?

What do you mean by turn? I didn't do any resurfacing. I mean i've only done 11,000 miles. It's still pretty new.

[KidnKorner]

Originally Posted by Moose

The "Best" way is to get them turned ...

...with a brake lathe on the car.

[jrotax101]

Originally Posted by TurboBlue

What do you mean by turn? I didn't do any resurfacing. I mean i've only done 11,000 miles. It's still pretty new.

You should get them turned, or do the resurfacing yourself. It doesn't matter they are only at 11000 miles, you are using a different compound than before.

[TurboBlue]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

You should get them turned, or do the resurfacing yourself. It doesn't matter they are only at 11000 miles, you are using a different compound than before.

Sorry i still don't get what 'turn' means!! So you think that's the issue im getting..not really feeling the full 'bite' of the new pads because of not resurfacing the rotors?

[Sirbelch]

When you turn a rotor, you press a special chisel against the surface of the rotor while the rotor turns. This cuts a thin layer of the rotor away revealing a flat, clean surface upon which new pads will sit nicely. When you don't turn or resurface the rotors (same thing) there is less pad to rotor contact. This happens because the old pad cut small groves into the surface of the rotor. So instead of contact between the rotors and pads the look like this | | your pads and rotors look like this |{ Get it now?

[TurboBlue]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

When you turn a rotor, you press a special chisel against the surface of the rotor while the rotor turns. This cuts a thin layer of the rotor away revealing a flat, clean surface upon which new pads will sit nicely. When you don't turn or resurface the rotors (same thing) there is less pad to rotor contact. This happens because the old pad cut small groves into the surface of the rotor. So instead of contact between the rotors and pads the look like this | | your pads and rotors look like this |{ Get it now?

Ah i see. Same thing. Hmm..might consider doing that then. Thanks!!

[FALer]

Your pads and rotors will wear in together, but the old brake pad material generally needs to come off so the new material can deposit itself. I use garnet sandpaper and sand in small circles around each rotor face when changing compounds.

[TurboBlue]

True.But i just thought that even without resurfacing, that at least i would feel a noticeable difference in braking power after changing the pads which i really did not feel at all.

[jrotax101]

You changed to another street pad(HPS) its not like you went to an aggressive pad like hawk blue's..

There won't be much difference in any "street" compounds