Brake options

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

^^ Making me jealous.. I wish i had enough $$ for tires at the moment.. damn hytech header.

On a side note, UPS came for me too today, they brought my " I Void Warranties" t-shirt so i can wear it when i go into honda..

i think the only thing left on my warranty is the interior..

Where did you get that shirt? That is awesome!

[jrotax101]

ThinkGeek :: Stuff for Smart Masses getting a " Keep out of Direct Sunlight" as i have really fair skin and burn when it rains.. haha

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

ThinkGeek :: Stuff for Smart Masses getting a " Keep out of Direct Sunlight" as i have really fair skin and burn when it rains.. haha

Thanks

Here is a picture of one of the wheels. I think I will take the trak sticker off now while they are nice and clean. The tires look nice.






The wheels are 14.6 pounds and the tires are 21 pounds. When I get home later today I will weigh them. Going to install some suspension stuff, hopefully come home with all my knuckles.

[jrotax101]

are they really 17x8?

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

are they really 17x8?

THat is what was ordered. The tires having no weight from the car on them are not flat like the tires on the car. I will try to measure them when I get back.

[jrotax101]

they look good man, nice to see another fiji 4dr being readied for the track. We're prolly the only ones on the forum.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

they look good man, nice to see another fiji 4dr being readied for the track. We're prolly the only ones on the forum.

After I put the suspension stuff on today and get the alignment the next day,the car should be handle well. All of my track rotors and pads show up at the end of the week. Now I just need an open date for an event and I will be ready. We will have to get them on the track together!

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Thanks

Here is a picture of one of the wheels. I think I will take the trak sticker off now while they are nice and clean. The tires look nice.


The wheels are 14.6 pounds and the tires are 21 pounds. When I get home later today I will weigh them. Going to install some suspension stuff, hopefully come home with all my knuckles.

Nice ....

THAT is a stupidly clean Garage ... WRONG WRONG WRONG ... Call yourself a ""car-guy" !!!!

[FALer]

Originally Posted by Moose

Good link !!! (Volvo) ... I am going to use it one page one in my Fluid overview

Thanks !!!

Moose

I found it completely by accident in a post on another board I had made three years ago by doing a Google search.

[FALer]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

So how long did they last? Do we even need to have them on there?

That depends. They may last the life of the car if you just commute, or, like me, you may notice them being toasted during the first year if you beat on it. I replaced my calipers with remans from Auto Zone, but they just cracked again. I probably drove them that way for 90,000 miles, but I didn't have any winter to worry about except for a week each Christmas to visit family.

I'd kinda like to hear what Moose does to rebuild his, since I've heard that rebuilding Honda calipers is a complete PITA when it comes time to get the dust boots seated unless you've got some specialty tools. I skipped that hassle by swapping calipers and it cost around $40 each after core charges were refunded. Probable costs more for the Si, since brake parts are much more expensive for it than an Integra.

I should note that I use gummi pflege on the dust boots (and any CV boots) when I do a brake job to help keep the rubber flexible and lubricated. I haven't seen any cracking in 26,000 miles, but I don't drive quite as hard and I believe that the rotors don't get quite as hot for when I do as in an Integra with 10.3" front rotors that only weighed 250 lbs. less than the Si.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

Nice ....

THAT is a stupidly clean Garage ... WRONG WRONG WRONG ... Call yourself a ""car-guy" !!!!

That is one two car garage. The other two car garage has awesome cabinets on all walls where I can keep all the tools and crap. The wife does not like clutter in there. But yes I do like to keep it clean and hose it out once a month. The wife calls me anal since I wash my car in the garage to stay out of the sun.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by FALer

That depends. They may last the life of the car if you just commute, or, like me, you may notice them being toasted during the first year if you beat on it. I replaced my calipers with remans from Auto Zone, but they just cracked again. I probably drove them that way for 90,000 miles, but I didn't have any winter to worry about except for a week each Christmas to visit family.

I'd kinda like to hear what Moose does to rebuild his, since I've heard that rebuilding Honda calipers is a complete PITA when it comes time to get the dust boots seated unless you've got some specialty tools. I skipped that hassle by swapping calipers and it cost around $40 each after core charges were refunded. Probable costs more for the Si, since brake parts are much more expensive for it than an Integra.

If you are further south and you do not get "winter" per say then your car will last longer ... and the parts. Up here in the North end of the continent it is below freezing regularily about 4 months of the year, add the salt that they use on the roads to keep them clear of snow and ice and you have a corrosion issue.

On my past Cars I also just did remans ... BUT the Civic / Teg calipers were cheap and easy to find. This caliper is not so much, and a I assume that it is pricey as well.

The Rebuild is not to bad ... $22 for new seals and gaskets, and about about $30 for a piston bore hone.

All you need is an air source to pop the piston out of the caliper.

First things First BUY a HELMS Shop manual ...it is the best $100 you can spend if you intend to work on yor car

Basically you remove the caliper and then caliper bracket from the knuckle and temporarily plug the brake line.

Bring it to your work bench and do following

Caliper
-Drain the excess fluid out
-Remove the pads
-Clean the loose crap off the calipers with a soft wire brush and brake cleaner
-Lay down clean rags / paper on the work surface to keep dirt away
-Put a block of wood in the caliper where the rotor would normally sit and apply air to banjo bolt fluid inlet
9A rubber tiped air nipple works best) ...this air pressure pops the piston out (watch you fingers) ..... the wood stops the piston from going to far and damaging itself.
-Remove the piston, remove boot/seal from the piston, and put it aside
-Carefully remove the old seal/o-rings, from the bore becarefull not to scratch or damage the bore
-Clean the bore with brake cleaner
-Inspect the bore for rust / damage ... clean up the bore with the hone if nessessary. If it is badly damaged ... then reassemble and look for a reman, and use this as a core.
-Clean really well and apply a LIGHT coating of brake fluid to the bore to lube it, and install the new seal/o-rings (lubed up with brake fluid)
-Inspect the piston - if it is scored or damaged - replace it
-Clean up the piston, apply a light coating of brake fluid to the dust boot and install it on the piston, lube piston with brake fluid, and slip it into the bore
-Paint the exterrior of the caliper up with high temp BBQ paint if you like. (Clean well first with Brake cleaner)
-Caliper is basically done

Caliper bracket
-Clean the loose crap off the caliper bracket, with a soft wire brush and brake cleaner
-Pop the slider boots off
-Clean the sliders REALLY well, and remove (carefully any rust) - do NOT scratch or remove the protective coating. If they are damaged or scored, replace them
-Lubricate REALLY well the slider with high temp synthetic brake Lube - I really like the PBR stuff
-Install the new slider boots
-Paint them up with high temp BBQ paint if you like. (Clean well first with Brake cleaner)

Re-attach the caliper bracket to knuckle, torque to spec

Re-Attach the caliper to Caliper bracket, torque to spec

Install brake pads

Attach brake line and torque to spec

Bleed brakes

EDITED after checking the Honda Shop Manual (Helms) - no special tools required except what is noted above ...

Taaa Daaaa

Moose

[jrotax101]

You dropped yourself in it now moose - so many questions so little time

How/with what do you plug the brake line with?

[Moose]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

You dropped yourself in it now moose - so many questions so little time

How/with what do you plug the brake line with?

I plug the hole with what ever I can find that fits

Actualy I have some tapered rubber plugs that I got somewhere that work well ... You can also use an old banjo bolt with some Electrical tape arround the shaft to block the hole and to provide a tighter fit, or a peice of fuel line / vac line / random small hose you have lieing arround.. I then Wrap tightly the entire head of the banjo bolt tightly with a HD Ziplock bag ... the trick is to not allow "space" for the fluid to flow into. The bag also captures any fluid that leaks out, so it does not drip onto something important

#21 is the rebuild kit (Seals etc)


Moose

[Moose]

Edited the Rebuild process with more info based on checking the Honda Service Manual (Helms)

[FALer]

Originally Posted by Moose

Edited the Rebuild process with more info based on checking the Honda Service Manual (Helms)

Thanks. I already have the two volume set.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by FALer

Thanks. I already have the two volume set.

Did you buy from Helms direct or is there somewhere cheaper to buy?

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Did you buy from Helms direct or is there somewhere cheaper to buy?

I bought mine here .. $90-100+ shipping

Shop Manual | Owners Guide | Restoration Book


Helms wants $125 new + SHIP
Helm Incorporated: Search Results


Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

I bought mine here .. $90-100+ shipping


Shop Manual | Owners Guide | Restoration Book

Moose

Thanks, they are $125 from Helms direct. Put the front camber bolts, rear sway bar, and rear camber arms on today. Going to get the alignment in the morning. I am thinking -2.25 in front and around -1.75 in the rear. Scared to go the -3.0 that you running with the good street tires that I am running right now. Well I guess I will see what they can do when they do it.

[FALer]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Did you buy from Helms direct or is there somewhere cheaper to buy?

I paid ~$80 from Helms a year ago, but either we're dealing with Canadian pricing, or the price went up since then.