Brake options

[thisisdudewhoru]

I didn't feel like reading whole thread so here is my question... Would stock NSX brakes work on our car and would they provide better braking? Are the rotors/calipers bigger? Has anyone tried it cuz I'm sure you might be able to find some cheap cuz i'm willing to bet that alot of those rich guys have upgraded their brakes?

[Moose]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Sorry, could you elaborate on what that " winter" word is.. (i'm joking)

Apart from the above mentioned problem what else do you "rebuild" during the off season.
Sorry for so many questions.. when i raced i was on a new chassis every 3 months so i never rebuilt anything.

Winter ... Pfffff ... First you are Wet and well ... Wet in the UK ... now you are humid and hot ....


As these are fairly new cars ..they "should" be fine for a while ...however ...


-Caliper rebuild - full flush - and I normally repaint the calipers, rotor hats, and rotor vanes with high temp BBQ paint (tremclad) to keep the rust at bay.

-Inspect all the bushings, replace where nessesary

-I normally dissamble the coil-over assemblies, clean them up, anti-seize and re-assemble, checking for leaks, bad seal, or excessive play

-The Upper Camber plate Mono-balls have to kept an eye on ....they tend to get excessive play in them over time, and need to be replaced fairly often.

-I check the motor mounts as they can tear / wear over time

-Check all wheel bearings for excessive play and run-out ... ONLY use OE as I have had early failure with NON OE wheel bearings and hubs - THis is Important

-Inspect the wheel studs ... with the number of wheel changes we do, it is easy to strip / bend etc them. At the same time check your lug nuts ... see if they thread on nicely or not ... if you have to much resistance with a particular lug or stud ... it should be replaced.

-Hubcentric rings .... the plastic ones tend to melt / warp

-Race rims ... have them spun up to check balance etc ...both the tire and rim can go out of round.

-Coolant - Flush and fill.

-Inspect Balljoints for play and tear in the boots

-Inspect CV's for play and wear in the boots


Thats about it ... Accelerated general maintenece and a good visual inspection of all brake and suspension systems.



Moose

[Moose]

Originally Posted by thisisdudewhoru

I didn't feel like reading whole thread so here is my question... Would stock NSX brakes work on our car and would they provide better braking? Are the rotors/calipers bigger? Has anyone tried it cuz I'm sure you might be able to find some cheap cuz i'm willing to bet that alot of those rich guys have upgraded their brakes?

You do not have to read the entire thread ...start with the first page ...


NSX - Not likely without a fair bit of work ...the calipers are a direct replacement only for the Integra Type R, Accord Wagon, Vigor, CRV and similar earlier 11" 5 lug front brakes ... not for the Mac Strut FG/FD cars


In reality all you need is good tires, good pads, and good fluid to improve braking perfomance

Moose

[FALer]

Originally Posted by Moose

FYI - If you track your car ...check your front caliper piston dust seals.

Both mine are DONE ... fried to a crisp from the heat generated by my track day abuse


Moose

Some pads, like Ferodo, are supposed to have a thermal barrier layer between the compound and backing plate. There are also titanium shims and piston inserts that are supposed to remove heat from the piston, but I've only seen these for Porsches.

I cooked my dust seals on my last Integra in street driving.

[TurboBlue]

Hey Moose,

Im still very new to all this information regarding brake fluids and I was going to be changing my brake pads soon. I was just wondering, is it ok to mix an aftermarket brake fluid with the OEM brake fluid? Any idea which brake fluid out there (not a racing brake fluid) has the same DOT or contents as the OEM brake fluid? Or is it best to just flush the whole system and add new brake fluid?

Thanks!

[FALer]

Originally Posted by TurboBlue

Hey Moose,

Im still very new to all this information regarding brake fluids and I was going to be changing my brake pads soon. I was just wondering, is it ok to mix an aftermarket brake fluid with the OEM brake fluid? Any idea which brake fluid out there (not a racing brake fluid) has the same DOT or contents as the OEM brake fluid? Or is it best to just flush the whole system and add new brake fluid?

Thanks!

You can do this and the DOT rating doesn't have to be the same (except for DOT 5, which silicone and not PEG based), as they are miscible with each other. However, it is best to use fresh fluid and flush to get the old fluid with the absorbed water out of the system. IOW, you need to do it anyway, so why not now? A good mechanic would probably charge you under $50 to do this and might even bleed and flush your clutch cylinder too.

I recommend Valvoline Syntech DOT4 and that's what I use. It's probably the best over-the-counter brake fluid you can commonly find at any chain auto parts store.

[TurboBlue]

Originally Posted by FALer

You can do this and the DOT rating doesn't have to be the same (except for DOT 5, which silicone and not PEG based), as they are miscible with each other. However, it is best to use fresh fluid and flush to get the old fluid with the absorbed water out of the system. IOW, you need to do it anyway, so why not now? A good mechanic would probably charge you under $50 to do this and might even bleed and flush your clutch cylinder too.

I recommend Valvoline Syntech DOT4 and that's what I use. It's probably the best over-the-counter brake fluid you can commonly find at any chain auto parts store.

Oh ok thanks. Just wondering but with the OEM brake fluid, when is the right time to flush it or going by the honda dealerships, what time line do they follow before they flush your brake fluids for you? 1 year/ 2years?

[FALer]

Originally Posted by TurboBlue

Oh ok thanks. Just wondering but with the OEM brake fluid, when is the right time to flush it or going by the honda dealerships, what time line do they follow before they flush your brake fluids for you? 1 year/ 2years?

Three years, I believe. I've heard most folks recommend 2 years or 25,000 miles. I do once a year, or pretty close. You actually absorb a fair bit of water in a year, 2-3%, and the definition of "wet" brake fluid is 3.7% water content.

OEM fluid is DOT3, FWIW.

[TurboBlue]

Originally Posted by FALer

Three years, I believe. I've heard most folks recommend 2 years or 25,000 miles. I do once a year, or pretty close. You actually absorb a fair bit of water in a year, 2-3%, and the definition of "wet" brake fluid is 3.7% water content.

OEM fluid is DOT3, FWIW.

Thanks that was a big help!

[FALer]

Brake Fluid Comparison

The new Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 synthetic formula has a dry BP of 503 and a wet BP of 343.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/Va...ke%20Fluid.pdf

[Moose]

Originally Posted by FALer

Brake Fluid Comparison

The new Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 synthetic formula has a dry BP of 503 and a wet BP of 343.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/Va...ke%20Fluid.pdf

Good link !!! (Volvo) ... I am going to use it one page one in my Fluid overview

Thanks !!!

Moose

[Moose]

Originally Posted by FALer

Some pads, like Ferodo, are supposed to have a thermal barrier layer between the compound and backing plate. There are also titanium shims and piston inserts that are supposed to remove heat from the piston, but I've only seen these for Porsches.

I cooked my dust seals on my last Integra in street driving.

The Rotora 4-pots we use on the race cars have a Titanium spacer on the end of the pistons to isolate it thermally from the pads.

BTW - Thanks for responding to Turbo Blue

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

I do not beleive I said that ... I run HP+ or AXIS Ultimates on the street generally.

I prefer the HP+ if I am Autocrossing as it has better initial bite.

The HP+ is not aggressive enough for the track though though, plenty fine for the street ... The HAWK HPS is not worth the money though ..that could be what I was refering to.

Moose

So strictly for the street at the HP+ going to be loud? Don't care about it for the track since I already ordered the ht-10 for the track.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

FYI - If you track your car ...check your front caliper piston dust seals.

Both mine are DONE ... fried to a crisp from the heat generated by my track day abuse


Moose

So how long did they last? Do we even need to have them on there?

[jrotax101]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

So strictly for the street at the HP+ going to be loud? Don't care about it for the track since I already ordered the ht-10 for the track.

the squeak a bit.. its what i'm using for DD

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

the squeak a bit.. its what i'm using for DD

So they are tolarable? I think I will order those then for the street and see how they do.I have to assume that they brake a lot better than the stock ones on the street. When they are cold still grab pretty good. Not that it is ever cold in Florida.

[jrotax101]

My friends axxis ultimates squeak less.. I havn't driven with them in the cold, he used them all year round here in atlanta though, so it should be fine in the winter time

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

So how long did they last? Do we even need to have them on there?

They lasted two track days - they are there to keep dust / moisture out of the piston bore ... I would keep an eye on them, and replace every so often. I do not know of ANY rubber piston seal that can survive track abuse ....

Originally Posted by jrotax101

the squeak a bit.. its what i'm using for DD

YUP - They sweak / squeel occationally when cold,and you are stopping with only a little pad pressure ... I have found that a couple of hard stops, cleans them up and gets rid of the noise. Using anti seize on the backing plates ears, and some anti-squeal paste on the backing plates minimises this

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

So they are tolarable? I think I will order those then for the street and see how they do.I have to assume that they brake a lot better than the stock ones on the street. When they are cold still grab pretty good. Not that it is ever cold in Florida.

You will have NO issues in Florida ... Winter in Florida is a balmy fall day up here

They will perform WAY better than OE on the street ... they a a great pad.

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

They lasted two track days - they are there to keep dust / moisture out of the piston bore ... I would keep an eye on them, and replace every so often. I do not know of ANY rubber piston seal that can survive track abuse ....



YUP - They sweak / squeel occationally when cold,and you are stopping with only a little pad pressure ... I have found that a couple of hard stops, cleans them up and gets rid of the noise. Using anti seize on the backing plates ears, and some anti-squeal paste on the backing plates minimises this



You will have NO issues in Florida ... Winter in Florida is a balmy fall day up here

They will perform WAY better than OE on the street ... they a a great pad.

Moose

Okay then we are done talking about it. I will order the HP+ for the front for the street so we don't have to worry about the HP+ in the rear being too much.

On a side not the UPS man just pulled up and unloaded the track wheels and tires. It feels like christmas here in FLorida.

[jrotax101]

^^ Making me jealous.. I wish i had enough $$ for tires at the moment.. damn hytech header.

On a side note, UPS came for me too today, they brought my " I Void Warranties" t-shirt so i can wear it when i go into honda..

i think the only thing left on my warranty is the interior..