Brake options

[jrotax101]

The KDW's do not last on a track, you were sensible going with track tires.

here are mine after 30 laps ( 1minute 10 each)


track wheels/tires are much cheaper in the long run.. unless u want new street tires every 2 track days.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

With the HT-10 and SRF you should be fine between lapping sessions ... you "may" need to bleed at the end of the day ..depends on how aggressive you are ... I am BRUTAL on brakes ... and really give them a work-out (Lots of very late/ hard braking ... plus loads of trail braking to boot.

The Best cheap option for the street is the PBR/Axis Ultimates ..they are almost as good as the HP + , better than the HPS and CHEAP ... I would go for those as a street pad persoannly.

My Toe is pretty aggressive at 1/16" out a side (1/8" total)

Good for you !!!! Track Tires / Pads are required if you are doing a lot of track days ... full tread depth street tires cannot hack the heat of lapping

Cheers

Moose

Well once again thank you for giving me some more insight. I am sure I will harass you again before the next event and then again after the event.
I saw what happened to those stock tires in such a short time on the track and that is what made up my mind. Expensive up front but hopefully better in the long run. Are the PBR/Axis Ultimates quiet enough on the street to pass the wife test?
Also what did you say would be good starting pressure for the track tires? I ended going with the Pilot Sport Cups to try to get some decent use out of them.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

The KDW's do not last on a track, you were sensible going with track tires.

here are mine after 30 laps ( 1minute 10 each)

track wheels/tires are much cheaper in the long run.. unless u want new street tires every 2 track days.

I told my wife that you said that I can't go out there with the stock tires because of what you did to them. I still can not believe that those tires did not hold up better than that. It is not like they are some crappy all season tire.
I want to get at least at year or longer out of my street tires, and since they won't see the track I thing that I am not asking too much out of them.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Well once again thank you for giving me some more insight. I am sure I will harass you again before the next event and then again after the event.
I saw what happened to those stock tires in such a short time on the track and that is what made up my mind. Expensive up front but hopefully better in the long run. Are the PBR/Axis Ultimates quiet enough on the street to pass the wife test?
Also what did you say would be good starting pressure for the track tires? I ended going with the Pilot Sport Cups to try to get some decent use out of them.

You may want to reseach on the Pirrelli Site for their range of reccomened Hot temps. It will vary by Manufacturer/Tire model. My Toyo RA1's like to be about 36 PSI hot, so I start at about 26 Cold allowing for 10 degree's of temp increase (Air Fill) ... you should see less PSI increase with a Nitrogen fill. With that said arround a 37 PSI hot should be a good starting point for you. A Probe Type Pyrometer and a good air gauge will help you tune for the best hot PSI

PBR/AXIS Ultimates are much more quiet than the HP+ ... Only in Winter do they get a "bit" noisey ... but this is in Canada, and our winters are much colder than yours.

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

I told my wife that you said that I can't go out there with the stock tires because of what you did to them. I still can not believe that those tires did not hold up better than that. It is not like they are some crappy all season tire.
I want to get at least at year or longer out of my street tires, and since they won't see the track I thing that I am not asking too much out of them.

My Hankook Z212 looked worse than Jrotex's ... beleive it or not after about 20 hot laps ... In part becuase i did not have enough camber. In part becasue they are full tread depth ... and the "squirm" you see with full tread depth tires (Not shaved) builds WAY more heat.

[DRIVEN1]

[quote=Moose;3305547]You may want to reseach on the Pirrelli Site for their range of reccomened Hot temps. It will vary by Manufacturer/Tire model. My Toyo RA1's like to be about 36 PSI hot, so I start at about 26 Cold allowing for 10 degree's of temp increase (Air Fill) ... you should see less PSI increase with a Nitrogen fill. With that said arround a 37 PSI hot should be a good starting point for you. A Probe Type Pyrometer and a good air gauge will help you tune for the best hot PSI

PBR/AXIS Ultimates are much more quiet than the HP+ ... Only in Winter do they get a "bit" noisey ... but this is in Canada, and our winters are much colder than yours.

Okay I will do some research to see what they recommend. I will have to buy a good pyrometer .

Hey we get cold winters! I think we got under 40 last year. Don't know how you survive those cold winters.

[FALer]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Okay, because I have never used anything like that before. Sounds like a job for the big screwdriver like you said.

It's probably just as good, but there's almost no way you could bugger the piston boot with the tool on your ratchet.

[jrotax101]

Moose -

now i just need the tires

bad news.. the guy i bought them from didn't send me any hubcentrics :insertmadsmileyhere:

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by FALer

It's probably just as good, but there's almost no way you could bugger the piston boot with the tool on your ratchet.

What is the name of the tool? If it is cheap and will make my life easier, I will go buy one. Just never seen it before.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Moose -

now i just need the tires

bad news.. the guy i bought them from didn't send me any hubcentrics :insertmadsmileyhere:

They look nice, did he tell you that the hubcentrics were included in the price you agreed on? Call tirerack they will probably have them in stock, or whoever you are going to buy your tires from.

[jrotax101]

No, i told him they were needed, he said they were never on.. however they are needed.

I'll get them from tire rack - hopefully they know the correct size needed

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

No, i told him they were needed, he said they were never on.. however they are needed.

I'll get them from tire rack - hopefully they know the correct size needed

They will know since they sell that wheel. I know that they are included when you buy wheels from them. So when are you going to get some tires mounted on those?

[jrotax101]

Once i recover from the $1400 withdrawl to Hytech

out of curiosity, what else do you drive? bearing in mind your mugen has 2xx miles on it.. and i have 18000 on mine in a year

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Once i recover from the $1400 withdrawl to Hytech

out of curiosity, what else do you drive? bearing in mind your mugen has 2xx miles on it.. and i have 18000 on mine in a year

I bought the Mugen so I can stop driving this. It is almost $250 to fill this thing up right now since it is diesel.



Last car before that was this 300 SRT8 with a 6.1 liter 460hp(no governer and it would do just under 180)




This was my favorite most recent car, ran low 12s with a crappy stock clutch back in 2003.



I think this was a 12.5 run against a big hp cobra, clutch was slipping real bad at this point and was kind of hard to launch. Never posted a video thru photobucket so not sure if this will work.


Everything else is in something called a photo album. It is a hard concept to understand anymore. But there was a time when we would print our pictures and put them in our car album. If I could get them onto the computer and looking good I would probably do that. But I am not the computer genius in the family.

[jrotax101]

nice selection. my girl has the excursion with the 7.3l engine in, so i know the costs on them are a nightmare.

i was at road atlanta with a srt8 . the tag was MYSRT8U

nice evo too :)

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

nice selection. my girl has the excursion with the 7.3l engine in, so i know the costs on them are a nightmare.

i was at road atlanta with a srt8 . the tag was MYSRT8U

nice evo too :)

I like the excursion, but with gas prices it was only a matter of time before they killed it.
Funny tag.
I loved the EVO and would surprise allot of people with that car. Were you able to see the video or not? That guy is the cobra was my buddies dad and was saying that he runs in the 11s all the time. These was no way he would lose to a 4 banger. He was not happy after that run was made.

[FALer]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

What is the name of the tool? If it is cheap and will make my life easier, I will go buy one. Just never seen it before.

Lisle rear caliper or rear disc brake tool. I think they're around $10-$15.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by FALer

Lisle rear caliper or rear disc brake tool. I think they're around $10-$15.

Thanks

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by FALer

Lisle rear caliper or rear disc brake tool. I think they're around $10-$15.

For $10 I would buy it, but I just googled the above description and it goes for $60-$70.

[jrotax101]

GM W-Car Rear Caliper Piston Retractor

will work also - and then there is always a big screw driver like i use.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

GM W-Car Rear Caliper Piston Retractor

will work also - and then there is always a big screw driver like i use.

I will just use a screwdriver then. That tool says it is for a GM car?

Different subject, did you take the diffuser off when putting on the lower arm bar or did you trim it? If you trim it what did you use?