Brake options

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

I use Permatex Copper on the pad tips and backing plates and PBR Rubber brake grease on the sliders



No Worries ... If you have done a brake job before this will not be a problem .... after a while they become dead easy .... I can do a front rotor / pad swap in about 15 minutes now

-Oh Yeah ...if you are doing front rotors ... you will probably need a impact driver with a philips bit to remove the rotor retaining screw ... if you do not have one, and it strips on you just drill it out ... it is an assembly screw and not really needed

Moose

I will add that stuff to my list to buy.
Been about 7 years and it was on the Alcons on my Audi. I am hoping that it is like riding a bike.
Got a impact driver, I am hoping that since the car has 200 miles on it right now that nothing is too rusted up yet.

[FALer]

C-clamps work too.

[fg2!kid]

i cant remember if its the fronts or the rears or both but the pistion needs to be rotaded in you cant just push it in i thinks its the rears

[FALer]

Originally Posted by fg2!kid

i cant remember if its the fronts or the rears or both but the pistion needs to be rotaded in you cant just push it in i thinks its the rears

Rears, as a function of being ratcheting to apply parking brakes.

Use one of these (I bought mine at Pep Boys, but Sears has/had them too) Lisle tools to twist them back in:

[FALer]

I'd like to confirm that RSX-S front rotors are interchangeable with the Si fronts, with regard to offset (since I know they're both 11.8" in diameter and 25mm thick) and that they are also the same as those of a 2005-2006 CR-V.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by FALer

I'd like to confirm that RSX-S front rotors are interchangt numbers eable with the Si fronts, with regard to offset (since I know they're both 11.8" in diameter and 25mm thick) and that they are also the same as those of a 2005-2006 CR-V.

You can do what I did and compare part numbers from 3-4 different aftermarket rotor manufacturers (Powerslot, EBC etc) .... When I did this both the RSX-S and 06+ Si had the same part numbers

[FALer]

Originally Posted by Moose

You can do what I did and compare part numbers from 3-4 different aftermarket rotor manufacturers (Powerslot, EBC etc) .... When I did this both the RSX-S and 06+ Si had the same part numbers

I've been doing just that on the Tirerack. Thanks.

[Moose]

Just make sure you X-reference with multiple vendors ... IF 3-4 differnt brake vendors say that they are the same you are pretty safe assuming that the parts are compatible ... but if there is only ONE vendor saying you are compatible, be wary ... I have seen some errors

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by FALer

Rears, as a function of being ratcheting to apply parking brakes.

Use one of these (I bought mine at Pep Boys, but Sears has/had them too) Lisle tools to twist them back in:

What the hell is that thing? So do I need to go buy that also? I just bought the compressor and spreader tool yesterday.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

What the hell is that thing? So do I need to go buy that also? I just bought the compressor and spreader tool yesterday.

It is for the REAR caliper, it helps twist and push the piston in (it has to rotate) ... I personanly just use a big screwdriver.


Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

It is for the REAR caliper, it helps twist and push the piston in (it has to rotate) ... I personanly just use a big screwdriver.


Moose

Okay, because I have never used anything like that before. Sounds like a job for the big screwdriver like you said.

[Moose]

I Just spent the evening at Shannonville Motorsport Park, I local 2.5 mile / 4 KM track. I installed a set of track only Pads, as I was not happy with my current Dual-duty pads, that I found got a bit "soft" after multiple laps.

I installed a Set of front Hawk DTC-60's ... their latest compound.

Wow ... while not as initialy aggressive(bite) as the Hawk Blues, they grab hard, and were VERY consistant, never going off or soft on me ... EVEN when I was punishing them.

I pulled them at the end of the evening to swap back to the Street setup and they looked great, no excessive wear ... and happly there was no where near as much dust as I was seeing with the Hawk Blues ...

Two Thumbs UP !!!!

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

I Just spent the evening at Shannonville Motorsport Park, I local 2.5 mile / 4 KM track. I installed a set of track only Pads, as I was not happy with my current Dual-duty pads, that I found got a bit "soft" after multiple laps.

I installed a Set of front Hawk DTC-60's ... their latest compound.

Wow ... while not as aggressive as the Hawk Blues, they grab hard, and were VERY consistant, never going off or soft on me ... EVEN when I was punishing them.

I pulled them at the end of the evening to swap back to the Street setup and they looked great, no excessive wear ... and happly there was no where near as much dust as I was seeing with the Hawk Blues ...

Two Thumbs UP !!!!

Moose

What pad did you run on the rear? I called Hawk last week and they said that the DTC60 was very nice. Said it would last longer than the blues. He said the biggest problem is that guys have been using the blues for ten plus years and don't want to try something new. Going to try the HT10 in the front on the first outing.They also can get 300 degress hotter than the blues! Hopefully they are more friendly than the blues like the DTC60 are.

I could not find the DTC60 in stock anywhere, so ordered the
HT 10 Compound
Temp Range: 300-1,300 degrees Fahrenheit
Torque: Intermediate to high
Recommended Use: Road racing or pavement circle track use that requires more torque than Blue 9012.

Going to try these in the front with track rotors and the hawk plus on the rear doing track and street duty. So it sounds like you are making the switch and leaving your old blues to the side? Where did you get the DTC60? Do you think that the DTC70 would have too much torque?

I am so jealous that you got to go the track yesterday. I was sweating in the hot Florida air yesterady putting in the short shifter and bushings.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

What pad did you run on the rear? I called Hawk last week and they said that the DTC60 was very nice. Said it would last longer than the blues. He said the biggest problem is that guys have been using the blues for ten plus years and don't want to try something new. Going to try the HT10 in the front on the first outing.They also can get 300 degress hotter than the blues! Hopefully they are more friendly than the blues like the DTC60 are.

I could not find the DTC60 in stock anywhere, so ordered the
HT 10 Compound
Temp Range: 300-1,300 degrees Fahrenheit
Torque: Intermediate to high
Recommended Use: Road racing or pavement circle track use that requires more torque than Blue 9012.

Going to try these in the front with track rotors and the hawk plus on the rear doing track and street duty. So it sounds like you are making the switch and leaving your old blues to the side? Where did you get the DTC60? Do you think that the DTC70 would have too much torque?

I am so jealous that you got to go the track yesterday. I was sweating in the hot Florida air yesterady putting in the short shifter and bushings.

I am currently running Project Mu B-Force in the rear ... similar to the Hawk HP+

I have officially made the Switch from Blues to DTC-60 ... I do miss the inital "bite" of the blues, BUT i do not miss the difficult modulation that the Blues had ... The DTC are MUCH easier to modulate and the ABS was NOT freaking out. The HP+ out back should work well with the HT-10 ...they need / want less heat than a Race pad

The DTC-60 also Dust WAY less than the Blues ... BIG THUMBS UP !!!

The track was fun .. but I spent allmost 5 hours (there and back) traveling for about 2 hours of track time ... But it was worth it. HOWEVER I may have pooched a front wheel bearing in one of my " off track adventures" I do not want to know how much this is going to cost me.


I got my Hawks from my local Hawk Distributor, here in Toronto, Canada ... Northern Motorsports. They have stock in EVERY compound that Hawk carries for the RSX-S / 06 Si / S2000



Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

I am currently running Project Mu B-Force in the rear ... similar to the Hawk HP+

I have officially made the Switch from Blues to DTC-60 ... I do miss the inital "bite" of the blues, BUT i do not miss the difficult modulation that the Blues had ... The DTC are MUCH easier to modulate and the ABS was NOT freaking out. The HP+ out back should work well with the HT-10 ...they need / want less heat than a Race pad

They also Dust WAY less than the Blues ...

The track was fun .. but I spent allmost 5 hours (there and back) traveling for about 2 hours of track time ... But it was worth it. HOWEVER I may have pooched a front wheel bearing in one of my " off track adventures" I do not want to know how much this is going to cost me.


I got my Hawks from my local Hawk Distributor, here in Toronto, Canada ... Northern Motorsports. They have stock in EVERY compound that Hawk carries for the RSX-S / 06 Si / S2000



Moose

Do you know if the dust from the HT10 is as corrosive as the blues?
But at least you got 2 hours of track time. That is why I don't autocross, spend all day to get less than 5 minutes of track time. If I am going to bake all day in the heat I want to get 2-3 hours of track time a day. I am lucky that I have Sebring about 2 hours from my house or can go down to Homestead if I want to drive 4 hours. Can also get to Moroso or Daytona in 3 hours.

I wonder if your guy will ship to Florida. The couple people that I tried from the Hawk website did not have them and could not give me an answer when they would get them. Hopefully I will be happy with the HT10 and it will not be an issue. I ordered two sets of them since not sure how long they will last at track and don't want to cut a day short.

How much fluid do I need to change the fluid out? I just got a liter of Castrol SRF. I am assuming that will be enough to do a complete flush and one or two events?

So what does that wheel bearing feel like now while driving?

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Do you know if the dust from the HT10 is as corrosive as the blues?
But at least you got 2 hours of track time. That is why I don't autocross, spend all day to get less than 5 minutes of track time. If I am going to bake all day in the heat I want to get 2-3 hours of track time a day. I am lucky that I have Sebring about 2 hours from my house or can go down to Homestead if I want to drive 4 hours. Can also get to Moroso or Daytona in 3 hours.

I wonder if your guy will ship to Florida. The couple people that I tried from the Hawk website did not have them and could not give me an answer when they would get them. Hopefully I will be happy with the HT10 and it will not be an issue. I ordered two sets of them since not sure how long they will last at track and don't want to cut a day short.

How much fluid do I need to change the fluid out? I just got a liter of Castrol SRF. I am assuming that will be enough to do a complete flush and one or two events?

So what does that wheel bearing feel like now while driving?

I am Lucky living in Toronto ... I have 4 road-courses with in 1.5 hours (Mosport Big, Mosport DDT, Dunneville, and TMP) with Shannonville at 2.5 hours away, Calaboogie at 4.5 and three more in Montreal at about 5.5 hours away

I am not to sure about how corrosive the HT-10's are ... Pete (my contatct below should know, if not you could talk to Hawk directly


Northern Motorsport Automotive Parts And Accessories
Talk to Pete Mills (Say Moose sent you) ... They have a US Wholesale Warehouse, so they "should" be able to ship to you


I used about 3/4 of a bottle (1 litre) of SRF to COMPLETELY flush and fill the system. So you should be good to go.


The Wheel bearing is Noisy as F**K ... sounds like I have an exhaust leak .. I CANNOT get the stereo loud enough to hide it


Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

I am Lucky living in Toronto ... I have 4 road-courses with in 1.5 hours (Mosport Big, Mosport DDT, Dunneville, and TMP) with Shannonville at 2.5 hours away, Calaboogie at 4.5 and three more in Montreal at about 5.5 hours away

I am not to sure about how corrosive the HT-10's are ... Pete (my contatct below should know, if not you could talk to Hawk directly


Northern Motorsport Automotive Parts And Accessories
Talk to Pete Mills (Say Moose sent you) ... They have a US Wholesale Warehouse, so they "should" be able to ship to you


I used about 3/4 of a bottle (1 litre) of SRF to COMPLETELY flush and fill the system. So you should be good to go.


The Wheel bearing is Noisy as F**K ... sounds like I have an exhaust leak .. I CANNOT get the stereo loud enough to hide it


Moose

This must be a nice time of the year up there to be on the track. Sounds like you are in a good city to be near that many tracks.
I will call Pete when I need some more and see what he says.

Does the car drink any brake fluild while at the track? Do you have to top it off after some driving?

I have never been in a car with the wheel bearing making that much noise. Hopefully you do not have to drive it on the street long before you get it fixed.

I was going to get an alignment done this week. So what do you think? I would rather not have to dismount tires and remount them every couple thousand miles but want as aggressive as possible. So with that being said -2.0 in front and rear? Or more negative in the front? -2.5 front and -2.0 rear?

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

This must be a nice time of the year up there to be on the track. Sounds like you are in a good city to be near that many tracks.
I will call Pete when I need some more and see what he says.

Does the car drink any brake fluild while at the track? Do you have to top it off after some driving?

I have never been in a car with the wheel bearing making that much noise. Hopefully you do not have to drive it on the street long before you get it fixed.

I was going to get an alignment done this week. So what do you think? I would rather not have to dismount tires and remount them every couple thousand miles but want as aggressive as possible. So with that being said -2.0 in front and rear? Or more negative in the front? -2.5 front and -2.0 rear?

The car should not consume any fluid, after you flush and fill double check after a day or so ... but you should be good. ... You "may" get some bubbles in the front calipers after agressive lapping ... I normally bleed them quickly at the end of a lapping day /weekend to clear them out. IF I am having problems with fluid related brake fade (pedal drops lower and lower) you may have to bleed earlier ... With my old setup (Project Mu Pads and ATE Super Blue) I had to bleed after every session.

If you are doing a lot of lapping then go aggresive as you can in the front ... it will save your tires. If your toe up front is not to aggressive then the overall street wear will not be to bad (Toe is more aggressive wear wise than Camber) ... just rotate your tires more often to (front to back and flip them on the rim. One good lapping session with not enough camber will TRASH a set of street tires ... TRUST Me ...I finished a Set of new Hankooks with minimal camber after 2 hours of lapping.

I used to run -2.7 F and -2.0 rear on my old daily driver / Track Whore (EG Hatch) ... with no excessibve camber wear .... now I am running -3 all arround since this car NEEDS more front camber ...

Based on my last lapping session and my aggressive driving style ... -3 F is about right for me. I street drive on cheap street tires so any excessive wear does kill me $$$ wise. BUT is saves me HUGE $$$ in track tires.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

The car should not consume any fluid, after you flush and fill double check after a day or so ... but you should be good. ... You "may" get some bubbles in the front calipers after agressive lapping ... I normally bleed them quickly at the end of a lapping day /weekend to clear them out. IF I am having problems with fluid related brake fade (pedal drops lower and lower) you may have to bleed earlier ... With my old setup (Project Mu Pads and ATE Super Blue) I had to bleed after every session.

If you are doing a lot of lapping then go aggresive as you can in the front ... it will save your tires. If your toe up front is not to aggressive then the overall street wear will not be to bad (Toe is more aggressive wear wise than Camber) ... just rotate your tires more often to (front to back and flip them on the rim. One good lapping session with not enough camber will TRASH a set of street tires ... TRUST Me ...I finished a Set of new Hankooks with minimal camber after 2 hours of lapping.

I used to run -2.7 F and -2.0 rear on my old daily driver / Track Whore (EG Hatch) ... with no excessibve camber wear .... now I am running -3 all arround since this car NEEDS more front camber ...

Based on my last lapping session and my aggressive driving style ... -3 F is about right for me. I street drive on cheap street tires so any excessive wear does kill me $$$ wise. BUT is saves me HUGE $$$ in track tires.

I hope that I don't have to bleed them after every session. In between sessions I want to be drinking gatorade sitting in the shade relaxing.

Also what pads are you running on the front on the street? Since I will be running those Hawk plus in the rear, wondering if I should run something little better than stock on the front. The only thing is I don't want squeeling on the street, could care less about squeeling on the track. Was wondering if the Hawk HPS for the front on street would be a good choice or just save the money and wait until the front stock ones wear out. You don't think that the stronger HP plus in the rear with stock fronts will throw off the bias do you?

What do you set your toe at?
I bought some track wheels and tires, so I don't kill the nice stock ones that came on the Mugen. Figure if I am going to be swapping out rotors might as well put some different wheels and tires on.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

I hope that I don't have to bleed them after every session. In between sessions I want to be drinking gatorade sitting in the shade relaxing.

Also what pads are you running on the front on the street? Since I will be running those Hawk plus in the rear, wondering if I should run something little better than stock on the front. The only thing is I don't want squeeling on the street, could care less about squeeling on the track. Was wondering if the Hawk HPS for the front on street would be a good choice or just save the money and wait until the front stock ones wear out. You don't think that the stronger HP plus in the rear with stock fronts will throw off the bias do you?

What do you set your toe at?
I bought some track wheels and tires, so I don't kill the nice stock ones that came on the Mugen. Figure if I am going to be swapping out rotors might as well put some different wheels and tires on.

With the HT-10 and SRF you should be fine between lapping sessions ... you "may" need to bleed at the end of the day ..depends on how aggressive you are ... I am BRUTAL on brakes ... and really give them a work-out (Lots of very late/ hard braking ... plus loads of trail braking to boot.

The Best cheap option for the street is the PBR/Axis Ultimates ...they are almost as good as the HP + , better than the HPS and CHEAP ... I would go for those as a street pad persoannly.

My Toe is pretty aggressive at 1/16" out a side (1/8" total)

Good for you !!!! Track Tires / Pads are required if you are doing a lot of track days ... full tread depth street tires cannot hack the heat of lapping

Cheers

Moose