Brake options

[Moose]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

i live here in atlanta now for the majority of the year..

I'm gonna get a e36, custom moton's, porsche brakes up front, cage and whilst that is in the works the engine is coming out and being built, then sc'd :)

may i suggest Advan A048 as some track tires for you.. :)

I came "THIS" close to picking up a E36 M3 4-door to replace my current Si ... it was going to be a street / track car with a 1/2 back, Moton Clubsports, and a full complement of GC goodies

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

With the Aggresive front pads, you are NOT likely to kill the OE rear pads ... you will probably have too much front brake bias, giving you more dive under braking, and relaistically less overall braking performance. You can probably "get away with" running the OE rear pads with front Track Specific pads ... I think ultimately you will need to upgrade the rear pads to at least an agressive street compound. To save $$$ you can have the rear rotors turned and just buy new rear pads.

Keep in mind, brakes are a SAFETY item, and not something that you really want to skrimp on ... You do not want to run out of brakes in the braking zone at th end of a ;long straight .... it gets exciting FAST ... been there ...done that ... have the scars top show for it.


Moose

I agree do not skimp on safety item. Back to original plan of buying dedicated track rotors and pads for front and rear. Just to make sure before I do that, that should be good along with some new lines and fluid. Would hate to buy all that and still need to upgrade to some big brake kit. I am pretty positive that I read that the size will be fine. Also because I am going to be buying some 17 inch wheels and tires for the track and would hate to screw that up if I needed some bigger components.
I don't want any of the scars that you have from running out of brakes, I had a close call once but ended up getting lucky.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

I agree do not skimp on safety item. Back to original plan of buying dedicated track rotors and pads for front and rear. Just to make sure before I do that, that should be good along with some new lines and fluid. Would hate to buy all that and still need to upgrade to some big brake kit. I am pretty positive that I read that the size will be fine. Also because I am going to be buying some 17 inch wheels and tires for the track and would hate to screw that up if I needed some bigger components.
I don't want any of the scars that you have from running out of brakes, I had a close call once but ended up getting lucky.

I am pretty confident that a Set of agrressive Front Track pads and Rear Performance Street pads plus good fluid is all you need ... This is based on my Testing with my Current Project MU setup that works well, but is not quite enough ... particularily for the track I was driving on and my aggressive driving style.


I would suggest that you upgrade in stages like I have done ... Start with Front Pads / rotors and fluid .... so how it feels ...if it feels good but you need / want more rear bias, then add some rear pads (Strreet HP ... HP + or similar) .

This minimises your "investment"

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

I am pretty confident that a Set of agrressive Front Track pads and Rear Performance Street pads plus good fluid is all you need ... This is based on my Testing with my Current Project MU setup that works well, but is not quite enough ... particularily for the track I was driving on and my aggressive driving style.


I would suggest that you upgrade in stages like I have done ... Start with Front Pads / rotors and fluid .... so how it feels ...if it feels good but you need / want more rear bias, then add some rear pads (Strreet HP ... HP + or similar) .

This minimises your "investment"

Moose

One last question, do the HP+ make a lot of noise? Thinking maybe put those in the rear and run them on street and track. Just swap out front rotors and pads at track and call it a day. Also just confirming that the Hp+ pads are not corrosive and can be used as a street pad. I will try to stop asking questions. Thanks

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

One last question, do the HP+ make a lot of noise? Thinking maybe put those in the rear and run them on street and track. Just swap out front rotors and pads at track and call it a day. Also just confirming that the Hp+ pads are not corrosive and can be used as a street pad. I will try to stop asking questions. Thanks

Yes,

The HP+ is a high performance street pad. You can install it and be done with it. It will dust more than a OE pad, BUT in the rear it will not dust near as much as a OE front would (ALL performance pads dust more than OE) The HP+ dust is NOT corrosive. LIke most perfomance pads it is noisier than OE ... normally when cold. You can minimise this by installing the OE shims, lubricating the pads "ears" with anti-seize, and applying anti-squeeel compound to the back of the pads.


Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

Yes,

The HP+ is a high performance street pad. You can install it and be done with it. It will dust more than a OE pad, BUT in the rear it will not dust near as much as a OE (ALL performance pads dust more than OE) The HP+ dust is NOT corrosive. LIke most perfomance pads it is noisier than OE ... normally when cold. You can minimise this by installing the OE shims, lubricating the pads "ears" with anti-seize, and applying anti-squeeel compound to the back of the pads.


Moose

Up early on a Sunday and not at the track?
Okay sounds good. So I am going to order blue for the front with some track rotors. I will order the HP+ for the rear and run them on the track and street and be done with it. Once again thank you for being so patient. I am hoping to get to Sebring next month, but I am on the waiting list since the event filled up in first couple of hours of registration. I will let you know what I think once I get the car out there. Thanks

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Up early on a Sunday and not at the track?
Okay sounds good. So I am going to order blue for the front with some track rotors. I will order the HP+ for the rear and run them on the track and street and be done with it. Once again thank you for being so patient. I am hoping to get to Sebring next month, but I am on the waiting list since the event filled up in first couple of hours of registration. I will let you know what I think once I get the car out there. Thanks

Nope .. not at the track unfortunatley - Waiting on parts for the car
-Master Cylinder (somehow broke the fluid level sensor at the track last time)
-Parts for the brake ducts and hoses.
-Hawk DTC-60 Front Race pads
-Castrol SRF brake Fluid
-Brackets for the Racetech Fiberglass Bucket Seat
-New rear springs

Good luck at Sebring

Cheers

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

Nope .. not at the track unfortunatley - Waiting on parts for the car
-Master Cylinder (somehow broke the fluid level sensor at the track last time)
-Parts for the brake ducts and hoses.
-Hawk DTC-60 Front Race pads
-Castrol SRF brake Fluid
-Brackets for the Racetech Fiberglass Bucket Seat
-New rear springs

Good luck at Sebring

Cheers

Moose

The joys of waiting for parts to come in. Many a days I sit and look at the window and wait for the UPS or Fedex guy to pull up. Hopefully everything will be there soon for you.
I would love to see how you do the front brake ducting, bet you could make some money selling kits if you can design it. Looks like it will be tricky getting it to work on these cars.
Thanks, Mike

[Live by SI]

Update on dual duty pads for an 8th gen Civic Si coupe.

I have the Endless CC-R front pads installed on the car as of yesterday and did the best I could bedding them to the rotor considering I was on the street.

So far initial bite is at least up to that of the HP+ and well above stock.

Modulation as well is progressive and maybe even better than the HP+'s.

No noise and dust yet, but my Hawk's kept quiet the first week as well.

I was concerned that these pads would be too aggressive for the street as in the fact they needed to be at a certain temperature before working, but that does not seen to be the case as I get decent bite on first cold application.

Please take all of this with a grain of salt as we are only 100 miles in here, the true test comes on Monday when I will be going to the Shannonville long track. (Over 4km)

Then we shall see how they wear under track abuse. I will have an in-car camera and will report back how they fair.

[jrotax101]

Originally Posted by Moose

I came "THIS" close to picking up a E36 M3 4-door to replace my current Si ... it was going to be a street / track car with a 1/2 back, Moton Clubsports, and a full complement of GC goodies

Moose

Not so keen on the 4dr, but i'll prolly get a black 2dr. My friend Mike ( Mike@ML-Works) has custom valved moton's on his, with a true coilover in the rear.. sick man.. its just plain sick haha. Although i've yet to ride in it with the track springs in (Eibach 0800.225.300/1000.225.600). Then another friend has a supercharged e36 putting down 400rwhp.. he took me for a ride at TGPR with r-comps on. It made me realize how much i miss going fast. haha

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Live by SI

Update on dual duty pads for an 8th gen Civic Si coupe.

I have the Endless CC-R front pads installed on the car as of yesterday and did the best I could bedding them to the rotor considering I was on the street.

So far initial bite is at least up to that of the HP+ and well above stock.

Modulation as well is progressive and maybe even better than the HP+'s.

No noise and dust yet, but my Hawk's kept quiet the first week as well.

I was concerned that these pads would be too aggressive for the street as in the fact they needed to be at a certain temperature before working, but that does not seen to be the case as I get decent bite on first cold application.

Please take all of this with a grain of salt as we are only 100 miles in here, the true test comes on Monday when I will be going to the Shannonville long track. (Over 4km)

Then we shall see how they wear under track abuse. I will have an in-car camera and will report back how they fair.

Cool thanks ... they have "similar" specs to the Project Mu Titan Kai's ... Long track is not to bad on brakes ..there is enough long sections that allow you to cool down the brakes, Fabi is a bit tougher in my eyes. The true test of these Endless Pads will be Dunneville as it is HORRIBLE on brakes

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Not so keen on the 4dr, but i'll prolly get a black 2dr. My friend Mike ( Mike@ML-Works) has custom valved moton's on his, with a true coilover in the rear.. sick man.. its just plain sick haha. Although i've yet to ride in it with the track springs in (Eibach 0800.225.300/1000.225.600). Then another friend has a supercharged e36 putting down 400rwhp.. he took me for a ride at TGPR with r-comps on. It made me realize how much i miss going fast. haha

I "prefer" the look of the Coupe ...BUT the 4 door chasis is stiffer and as it is a four door it does not get as much attention from the POPO

Moose

[jrotax101]

Originally Posted by Moose

I "prefer" the look of the Coupe ...BUT the 4 door chasis is stiffer and as it is a four door it does not get as much attention from the POPO

Moose

like i don't attract enough attention with my set-up at the moment. I was at least trying to be semi - inconspicuous with the black. When i go and see my mom she can hear me coming 2 miles away at the moment haha

[DRIVEN1]

Moose,
What do you use to compress the caliper? Do you have a brake caliper piston compressor that you use? I never used one on my Audi, but looking at the DIY for front brakes the guy mentions:
Special Tools Required
Brake caliper piston compressor 07AAE-SEPA101

I googled this and nothing came up, just want to make sure that I have all the tools that I need before I start the job. Thanks Mike

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Moose,
What do you use to compress the caliper? Do you have a brake caliper piston compressor that you use? I never used one on my Audi, but looking at the DIY for front brakes the guy mentions:
Special Tools Required
Brake caliper piston compressor 07AAE-SEPA101

I googled this and nothing came up, just want to make sure that I have all the tools that I need before I start the job. Thanks Mike

This is the proper tool to push the piston back into the caliper
Craftsman Disc Brake Pad Spreader - Model 47365 at Sears.com





But I normally just use a set of slip joints ... and squeeze it back in




Keep and eye on the M/S resevoir ... it has a tendancy of overflowing when you push the pistons back .... I like to leave a rag under it to catch any overflow.


MAke sure you have a can of brake cleaner to clean the calipers / rotors / and M/S when you are finished ... Keep in mind that Brake fluid EATS paint ...clean up any spills and becarefull touching anything if you have handled a cailper etec with brake fluid on it.

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

This is the proper tool to push the piston back into the caliper

But I normally just use a set of slip joints ... and squeeze it back in

Keep and eye on the M/S resevoir ... it has a tendancy of overflowing when you push the pistons back .... I like to leave a rag under it to catch any overflow.


MAke sure you have a can of brake cleaner to clean the calipers / rotors / and M/S when you are finished ... Keep in mind that Brake fluid EATS paint ...clean up any spills and becarefull touching anything if you have handled a cailper etec with brake fluid on it.

Moose

Never worked on Honda brakes, do you need the spreader to open them up when putting the new pads in? Thanks for reminding me about the brake cleaner, don't have any here so I will pick some up. Thanks Mike

[Moose]

As the brake pads wear they get thinner .... as a result the piston pushes out more ... when you put fresh pads in you need to push the piston back to make space so that you can slip the caliper down over the thicker pads.

You only need to remove the lower caliper bolt (12mm) , and swing the caliper up out of the way. The pads sit in the caliper bracket surounding the rotor

Lube the "ears" of the pads backing plate with anti seize where they slide in to the caliper bracket ... also put a bit of anti seze on the back of the pads backing plates where they touch the caliper ... this minimises squeel and other noises.

While you are at it ... use some high temp brake lube and lube up the sliders

Moose

[Moose]

Oh Yeah .... the rears (Only) require a big slot screwdriver .. you need to twist the piston back into the caliper ... you cannot just push it back in.

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

As the brake pads wear they get thinner .... as a result the piston pushes out more ... when you put fresh pads in you need to push the piston back to make space so that you can slip the caliper down over the thicker pads.

You only need to remove the lower caliper bolt (12mm) , and swing the caliper up out of the way. The pads sit in the caliper bracket surounding the rotor

Lube the "ears" of the pads backing plate with anti seize where they slide in to the caliper bracket ... also put a bit of anti seze on the back of the pads backing plates where they touch the caliper ... this minimises squeel and other noises.

While you are at it ... use some high temp brake lube and lube up the sliders

Moose

Any brand of anti seize work better than the others for track use and the high temps?

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by Moose

Oh Yeah .... the rears (Only) require a big slot screwdriver .. you need to twist the piston back into the caliper ... you cannot just push it back in.

Moose

Thanks for all the tips you have been giving me, I am sure the first time will take a little longer than the future times doing it.