Brake options

[jrotax101]

on r-comps it will allow the correct heat variation across the contact patch

they also like a lot of caster.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

on r-comps it will allow the correct heat variation across the contact patch

they also like a lot of caster.

So is he running that much camber on the street? I will be getting my camber stuff in the next 2 weeks and doing the alignment. I thought I was going to do -2.0 in the front and -1.0 in the rear, but now not sure. I don't want to have to get a new alignment every time I go to the track.

[jrotax101]

i think he does it himself before and after

I am -2 -1 but i'm gonna get a camber gauge and put it to -3,-2 when i track.. as my Pro-c's go up to -5 like moose's

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

i think he does it himself before and after

I am -2 -1 but i'm gonna get a camber gauge and put it to -3,-2 when i track.. as my Pro-c's go up to -5 like moose's

Sounds good. How did you like Road Atlanta? I want to go up there and try it one day. Went to Roebling Road one year up near Savannah but normally stay in Florida for track events.

[jrotax101]

One of the best tracks i've ever driven on. On par with my favourite track in the UK, Silverstone and better than brands hatch and donnington in the UK..

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

One of the best tracks i've ever driven on. On par with my favourite track in the UK, Silverstone and better than brands hatch and donnington in the UK..

Club that I just joined goes up there sometime this year and I was going to try to make it. Have some friends that live in Buckhead, so I got a place to stay if it is close to the track. Glad to hear that you liked it, I would love to get to silverstone one year. Got to go play some tennis! Nice talking to you. Mike

[jrotax101]

Buckhead is near downtown, its a good hour and a bit from road atlanta (Braselton). Straight up I-85.

Not to be cheeky, but when you are going up, if they don't mind, let me know if i can join ya! Would be cool to see our cars on track together..

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Buckhead is near downtown, its a good hour and a bit from road atlanta (Braselton). Straight up I-85.

Not to be cheeky, but when you are going up, if they don't mind, let me know if i can join ya! Would be cool to see our cars on track together..

The club is going back up there on Nov 29-30, I am going to try to make it up there. The only problem is it is the weekend of Thanksgiving.
Also got the okay from the wife last night to order some track wheels and tires! Told her that going out there with the stock tires will just destroy them and end up costing more in the long run.(thanks moose) So begins the search for some track wheels.

[jrotax101]

If you can afford it, get some Volk RE30's . they will be your lightest and strongest track wheel. Another option is wedssport TC105N - they are about 15lbs i believe.

I'm saving up for a 2nd car ( bmw) to turn into a dedicated track car, so i'm not going the re30 route this time, going to get some WedsSport SA-70.. light(ish) at 17lbs, and at $250 each, can't beat it.

About thanksgiving.. i don't mind - when i raced in the UK i missed families weddings etc :P so that isn't an issue for me.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

If you can afford it, get some Volk RE30's . they will be your lightest and strongest track wheel. Another option is wedssport TC105N - they are about 15lbs i believe.

I'm saving up for a 2nd car ( bmw) to turn into a dedicated track car, so i'm not going the re30 route this time, going to get some WedsSport SA-70.. light(ish) at 17lbs, and at $250 each, can't beat it.

About thanksgiving.. i don't mind - when i raced in the UK i missed families weddings etc :P so that isn't an issue for me.

MOTEGI TRACK TRAKLITE 2.0 Silver w/Machined Lip
Think I am going to go with these, they are forged and weigh 14.6 lbs in a 17x8. I might try the Pilot Sport Cup track tire, not as grippy as some of the other ones but treadwear rating is double. I would rather have the tire last allot longer and give up just a little in times. Since I am not racing I think that it would make sense. The reviews on the tire look good.
What BMW? I had a E36 M3 back in 97 and it was a fun track car.
Missed family wedding? You must have been popular after that. Do you live over there or the US now?

[jrotax101]

i live here in atlanta now for the majority of the year..

I'm gonna get a e36, custom moton's, porsche brakes up front, cage and whilst that is in the works the engine is coming out and being built, then sc'd

may i suggest Advan A048 as some track tires for you..

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

i live here in atlanta now for the majority of the year..

I'm gonna get a e36, custom moton's, porsche brakes up front, cage and whilst that is in the works the engine is coming out and being built, then sc'd

may i suggest Advan A048 as some track tires for you..

You are going to have a bad ass car when done. The e36 is a great and popular track car. What are you going to do to the motor? Getting a 3.0 or 3.2 motor?

I was looking at them also, have you ever driven on the A048? I used to track my Audi S4 and used the A032R but I guess that it is done, I am assuming that the A048 replaced it?

[jrotax101]

3.2 motor .. the B52M28 would be the better engine for turbo, as it can hold higher boost, longer over the m3 engine.. however i want to SC, so going for the 3.2.

I've driven on them once in england, but i havn't used any r-comps yet here on a street car, only single seater's with the dedicated slicks..

Most of my friends used them in england on their track evo's and elise's

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

3.2 motor .. the B52M28 would be the better engine for turbo, as it can hold higher boost, longer over the m3 engine.. however i want to SC, so going for the 3.2.

I've driven on them once in england, but i havn't used any r-comps yet here on a street car, only single seater's with the dedicated slicks..

Most of my friends used them in england on their track evo's and elise's

Keep me updated on the build of the e36.

I think that the elise comes with the 048 from the factory. Have a good day and talk to you later. Got a 11:00 tee time, got to go make some money!

[MaddMatt]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

i think he does it himself before and after

I am -2 -1 but i'm gonna get a camber gauge and put it to -3,-2 when i track.. as my Pro-c's go up to -5 like moose's

You do know that toe also changes when you change camber, right?

[jrotax101]

yes... but i know how to do the toe too.

[DRIVEN1]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

yes... but i know how to do the toe too.

How hard it is do it at the track? Never seen anyone do it before so I am clueless on how it is done. Thanks

[Moose]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Moose - thanks for your replies in my email, good luck this weekend!

With regards to running DTC-60 up front and HP+ rear..

Will the different pad compounds not throw off the brake bias cos of the stupid BC?

If not, that makes my life a lot easier.. only swapping two rotors/4 pads instead of the whole shabang.

Bad weekend - Lost/blew fresh motors in Both cars during practice ... back home after a 6 hour drive


There is only one way to find out
The HP+ have good initial bite, good cold bite, and a fairly aggressive MU ... when they are up to temp, they should be close to relative grip as the fronts. BUT this is also dictated by your driving style, and your cars setup ... the more agrressive you are the more front brake bias you will require typically.

I have allways run an Agressive Front track pad (swapped track pads in at the track) and a Aggressive street pad out back on my combi track/DD cars

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Okay so I will try the DTC-60 on the front and what about the hawk black for the rear? The blacks start at 100 degree. I do not see the DTC30 on the tirerack site. Did not think about the rears not getting hot enough compared to the front.Where do you get your pads from?

Just ordered my stuff to do the camber. So I was right on the tire size and wheels. What do you run in the rear for camber? -1.5? Do you keep these settings for the street of do you get a new alignment after track days?
So you like the toyo's, who do you get them thru? Do you shave and heat cycle them? Are you doing mostly autocross or open track. Because I will be doing only open track events so not sure if that would still be your choice of tire. Keep the good info coming, do you ever do any events down south?

Start with the front pads ... and then evaluate if you need a more aggressive rear pad to complement your driving style and setup.

Camber - I run -3 all arround ... I just rotate my tire regularily and swap and flip them on the rims every oil change ... This is a VERY aggressive setup ...but it makes for a terrific track setup. This sort of alignmnet wil SAVE your tires when on the track.

I feel that Toyo RA1's /R888 are the best value in a R-compound for lapping and the occational racers as they last a long time, heat cycle well, and are very predictable. There are faster / stickier tires (like the R1's) out there, but they are expensive and do not last as long typically.

I order tires thru a race-tire distributor here in Canada, or get used "take-offs" thru the race team I work with... I will ALLWAYS order shaved and heat-cycled R-comps .. full tread depth RA-1 wil overheat and wear badly unless they are used in the rain as a true rain tire.

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Moose gets his tires from the race team he works for, or gets new, i believe. So they will be heat cycled

Also, as far as i know, moose is a track guy and its all HPDE/open track days.

He said in the email to me he runs -3 on all 4 wheels

YUP - I run currently -3 all arropund, but I m continuoulsy evaluating and tweeking my setup ... This setup is optimised for HDPE and Lapping only ... I may try to dial in some more front and a bit les rear camber ... plus I am looking at a differnt front bar and a custom rear bar ...all these changes will influence my alginment settings.

Originally Posted by jrotax101

i think he does it himself before and after

I am -2 -1 but i'm gonna get a camber gauge and put it to -3,-2 when i track.. as my Pro-c's go up to -5 like moose's

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

How hard it is do it at the track? Never seen anyone do it before so I am clueless on how it is done. Thanks

It is fairly easy ..but a bit time consuming to do ... all you need is four jack stands, some tubing, a couple of tape measures, and level ground. You build a string box to measure TOE and then correct for. Do a search on Honda Tech for "String box" there is a good write up there on the process annd parts required.

Moose

[DRIVEN1]

[quote=Moose;3238049]Bad weekend - Lost/blew fresh motors in Both cars during practice ... back home after a 6 hour drive

Sorry to hear about your weekend.

[QUOTE=Moose;3238049
Start with the front pads ... and then evaluate if you need a more aggressive rear pad to complement your driving style and setup.

So do you think that I could run the blues out front on some new rotors and leave the rear stock for the first time out? Or will I bias be way off and cook the rear? Did you ever run that combo when you first got the car? It would be nice to not buy rear rotors and pads if did not need to. But at the same time would rather buy now then destroy the stock and then have to buy new stock stuff along with new track stuff.

Once again thanks alot for helping out with all my questions. Mike

[Moose]

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

So do you think that I could run the blues out front on some new rotors and leave the rear stock for the first time out? Or will I bias be way off and cook the rear? Did you ever run that combo when you first got the car? It would be nice to not buy rear rotors and pads if did not need to. But at the same time would rather buy now then destroy the stock and then have to buy new stock stuff along with new track stuff.

Once again thanks alot for helping out with all my questions. Mike

With the Aggresive front pads, you are NOT likely to kill the OE rear pads ... you will probably have too much front brake bias, giving you more dive under braking, and relaistically less overall braking performance. You can probably "get away with" running the OE rear pads with front Track Specific pads ... I think ultimately you will need to upgrade the rear pads to at least an agressive street compound. To save $$$ you can have the rear rotors turned and just buy new rear pads.

Keep in mind, brakes are a SAFETY item, and not something that you really want to skrimp on ... You do not want to run out of brakes in the braking zone at th end of a ;long straight .... it gets exciting FAST ... been there ...done that ... have the scars top show for it.


Moose