Buddy Club N+ vs. HFP Suspension

llckll · 10-23-2007, 01:16 AM

My next mod that I want to do is suspension. I'm really on the fence between the BC N+ and HFP.

1. What is it that I want to accomplish? I obviously want better handling + a nice looking ride. This is my daily driver and I do some spirited driving. Maybe next year when spring/summer rolls around again, i'll take it to the auto race track if I can find one around me (07650).

2. The reason that I am leaning towards the HFP is because it was specifically made for our cars. The only reason why I'm leaning away from it is because it's only .8 inch of a drop and the $600 price tag. The reason I am leaning towards BC N+ is because the height and softness is fully adjustable. Also because it is only a few hundred more than the HFP.

Now in regards to camber kits, if I did decide to go with the BC N+ and drop it 1.5", I would need a camber kit. But what if I wanted to raise the car back up to stock height? Would I have to keep readjusting the camber kit every time I lower it 1.5" and raise it 1.5" (winter time)?

I need some updated and new opinions. I'll continue reading the old posts until something new pops up at me.

Thanks...

***Sirbelch*** · 10-23-2007, 02:19 AM

I say the HFP will be better in the long run. Its a simple set it and forget it suspension that is designed to last the life of the car were the BC's are not. If you want even cheaper handing upgrade, just get 4 front camber bolts and max out negative camber. Thats a $70 upgrage that will probably handle better than the HFP and BC with a stock alignment. Even better would be the HFP with the camber bolts and a adjustable rear camber arm. Thay way you get higher spring/damping rates and increased stick from the negative camber. I have had Tein SS and Tein Flex and the biggest difference in handling over stock was the ability to increase negative front camber with the camber plates on the Flex. The good thing about the camber bolts is you don't have to waste 1700 on Flex's to get the camber adjustability. And before you ask, the increased negative camber won't eat your tires, it will only wear the inside shoulder a little bit. So, get the HFP, camber bolts, set front negative camber to max, leave the rear as is, 0 toe on all four corners and max out front positive caster. That should be more handling than you can handle. Better yet, just do the alignment first, drive it around, and see where you want to go from there.

Jay Kincannon · 10-23-2007, 09:43 PM

And rotate your tires every 2,500 miles and buy new tires every 10,000 miles or so. Go with the HFP suspension and enjoy. I've had the HFP suspension with no front/rear camber kits for 10,000 miles and only rotated my tires once (about to do second rotation) and have no noticeable tire wear. If you are not satisfied with the results there will be many guys that will buy your used HFP suspension. Then you are only out a couple hundred bucks and start building your own suspension. IMO...You will be more than satisfied with HFP suspension with a good set of tires.

Jay Kincannon · 10-23-2007, 09:43 PM

And rotate your tires every 2,500 miles and buy new tires every 10,000 miles or so. Go with the HFP suspension and enjoy. I've had the HFP suspension with no front/rear camber kits for 10,000 miles and only rotated my tires once (about to do second rotation) and have no noticeable tire wear. If you are not satisfied with the results there will be many guys that will buy your used HFP suspension. Then you are only out a couple hundred bucks and start building your own suspension. IMO...You will be more than satisfied with HFP suspension with a good set of tires.

10-23-2007, 01:16 AM	#1 (permalink)
llckll Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 401 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Buddy Club N+ vs. HFP Suspension My next mod that I want to do is suspension. I'm really on the fence between the BC N+ and HFP. 1. What is it that I want to accomplish? I obviously want better handling + a nice looking ride. This is my daily driver and I do some spirited driving. Maybe next year when spring/summer rolls around again, i'll take it to the auto race track if I can find one around me (07650). 2. The reason that I am leaning towards the HFP is because it was specifically made for our cars. The only reason why I'm leaning away from it is because it's only .8 inch of a drop and the $600 price tag. The reason I am leaning towards BC N+ is because the height and softness is fully adjustable. Also because it is only a few hundred more than the HFP. Now in regards to camber kits, if I did decide to go with the BC N+ and drop it 1.5", I would need a camber kit. But what if I wanted to raise the car back up to stock height? Would I have to keep readjusting the camber kit every time I lower it 1.5" and raise it 1.5" (winter time)? I need some updated and new opinions. I'll continue reading the old posts until something new pops up at me. Thanks...

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10-23-2007, 02:19 AM	#2 (permalink)
*Sirbelch* Louder than 4 F404-GE-400 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vacaville CA Age: 27 Posts: 5,636 Paul iTrader: 1 / 100%	I say the HFP will be better in the long run. Its a simple set it and forget it suspension that is designed to last the life of the car were the BC's are not. If you want even cheaper handing upgrade, just get 4 front camber bolts and max out negative camber. Thats a $70 upgrage that will probably handle better than the HFP and BC with a stock alignment. Even better would be the HFP with the camber bolts and a adjustable rear camber arm. Thay way you get higher spring/damping rates and increased stick from the negative camber. I have had Tein SS and Tein Flex and the biggest difference in handling over stock was the ability to increase negative front camber with the camber plates on the Flex. The good thing about the camber bolts is you don't have to waste 1700 on Flex's to get the camber adjustability. And before you ask, the increased negative camber won't eat your tires, it will only wear the inside shoulder a little bit. So, get the HFP, camber bolts, set front negative camber to max, leave the rear as is, 0 toe on all four corners and max out front positive caster. That should be more handling than you can handle. Better yet, just do the alignment first, drive it around, and see where you want to go from there.

10-23-2007, 09:43 PM	#3 (permalink)
Jay Kincannon Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 934 iTrader: 2 / 100%	And rotate your tires every 2,500 miles and buy new tires every 10,000 miles or so. Go with the HFP suspension and enjoy. I've had the HFP suspension with no front/rear camber kits for 10,000 miles and only rotated my tires once (about to do second rotation) and have no noticeable tire wear. If you are not satisfied with the results there will be many guys that will buy your used HFP suspension. Then you are only out a couple hundred bucks and start building your own suspension. IMO...You will be more than satisfied with HFP suspension with a good set of tires.

10-23-2007, 09:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
Jay Kincannon Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 934 iTrader: 2 / 100%	And rotate your tires every 2,500 miles and buy new tires every 10,000 miles or so. Go with the HFP suspension and enjoy. I've had the HFP suspension with no front/rear camber kits for 10,000 miles and only rotated my tires once (about to do second rotation) and have no noticeable tire wear. If you are not satisfied with the results there will be many guys that will buy your used HFP suspension. Then you are only out a couple hundred bucks and start building your own suspension. IMO...You will be more than satisfied with HFP suspension with a good set of tires.