Replacing Rear Brake pads question

mtbiker278 · 08-30-2007, 11:20 AM

Hey Everyone! I'm going to be replacing the rear brake pads on my 06 EX coupe sometime this weekend. I've replaced the front before without issues, but some of the stuff on the rear has me wondering. Here's a couple of questons:

1) The piston on the rear calipers has to be screwed back into the caliper in a clockwise fashion? While doing this should I bleed off te brake fluid from the caliper?

2) Since the e-brake is self adjusting is there anything I need to do to reset it to be wide open? Does it need resetting at all?

3) While bleeding the brakes have people been using the manual bleed method or gravity bleeding? Any issues with the ABS system using the manual bleed method?

Thanks for the help!

NIGHTHAWKSI · 08-30-2007, 11:51 AM

1. put the bolts in teh opposite way they came off.

2. ebrake shouldnt need adjusting. it will tighten up, but only as tight as it was when brand new.

3. no need to bleed the brakes for changing the pads unless you have a special situtation.

mtbiker278 · 08-30-2007, 01:22 PM

I think I might have been mis-interpreted

1)the piston the actuates the brakes needs to be screwed back into the caliper, not the bolts that mount the caliper to the hub.

2) My car has 36k miles on it, and I plan to flush the fluid out after changing the pads.

Thanks again

NIGHTHAWKSI · 08-30-2007, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtbiker278

I think I might have been mis-interpreted

1)the piston the actuates the brakes needs to be screwed back into the caliper, not the bolts that mount the caliper to the hub.

2) My car has 36k miles on it, and I plan to flush the fluid out after changing the pads.

Thanks again

use an old brake pad and put it over the piston. then use a c-clamp to compress the piston.

i havent had to bleed the brakes yet...but i think its just as any other car. abs doesnt make a difference.

**twistedframe** · 08-30-2007, 01:35 PM

it is safer to open the bleeder screw when compressing the caliper piston. There have been cases of brake fluid being forced back through the abs module and ruining it. I always do it just to be safe. And yes if you do use that method its a good idea to do a quick bleed when you are done.

**Nomar06** · 08-30-2007, 01:46 PM

Clamping the piston down did not work for me. I had to turn the piston to get it to go in. Also openned the break fill and bled the breaks a bit.

The rear pass side was a PITA while the rear drivers took 10 mins to change.

CZ-75 · 08-30-2007, 03:41 PM

Clamp the fronts and screw the rears.

firstsi · 08-30-2007, 03:48 PM

not on the rears the tool you need is only a couple of bucks at you local autoparts place
its a square piece with different ears on eacn side
i think i just left the ratchet in foward and cranked away it wasnt hard

firstsi · 08-30-2007, 03:48 PM

delete dbl post

mtbiker278 · 08-30-2007, 04:42 PM

thanks guys!

brake pads came in during lunch, I might just install them today.

Is there anything I need to do with the e-brake?

firstsi · 08-30-2007, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtbiker278

thanks guys!

brake pads came in during lunch, I might just install them today.

Is there anything I need to do with the e-brake?

nope

mtbiker278 · 08-30-2007, 08:53 PM

Just for other people to reference:

The Rear brake caliper piston have to be pushed in while turned clockwise to seat them further into the caliper.

The rubber brake hose on the driver's side leaves almost no room to work with, so be careful when trying to put the caliper back on the rotor.

The passenger side has a dust shroud bolt sticking out that interferes with the e-brake cable mount. You'll have to fiddle around with it to get it back on but shouldn't need to remove the bolt.

Thanks again for the help!

08-30-2007, 11:20 AM	#1 (permalink)
mtbiker278 Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 49 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Replacing Rear Brake pads question Hey Everyone! I'm going to be replacing the rear brake pads on my 06 EX coupe sometime this weekend. I've replaced the front before without issues, but some of the stuff on the rear has me wondering. Here's a couple of questons: 1) The piston on the rear calipers has to be screwed back into the caliper in a clockwise fashion? While doing this should I bleed off te brake fluid from the caliper? 2) Since the e-brake is self adjusting is there anything I need to do to reset it to be wide open? Does it need resetting at all? 3) While bleeding the brakes have people been using the manual bleed method or gravity bleeding? Any issues with the ABS system using the manual bleed method? Thanks for the help!

08-30-2007, 01:46 PM	#6 (permalink)
Nomar06 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Charlotte, NC Age: 27 Posts: 25,167 iTrader: 7 / 100%	Clamping the piston down did not work for me. I had to turn the piston to get it to go in. Also openned the break fill and bled the breaks a bit. The rear pass side was a PITA while the rear drivers took 10 mins to change. __________________

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08-30-2007, 11:51 AM	#2 (permalink)
NIGHTHAWKSI Senior Member Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: long island Age: 23 Posts: 14,733 Ian iTrader: 13 / 100%	1. put the bolts in teh opposite way they came off. 2. ebrake shouldnt need adjusting. it will tighten up, but only as tight as it was when brand new. 3. no need to bleed the brakes for changing the pads unless you have a special situtation.

08-30-2007, 01:22 PM	#3 (permalink)
mtbiker278 Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 49 iTrader: 0 / 0%	I think I might have been mis-interpreted 1)the piston the actuates the brakes needs to be screwed back into the caliper, not the bolts that mount the caliper to the hub. 2) My car has 36k miles on it, and I plan to flush the fluid out after changing the pads. Thanks again

08-30-2007, 03:41 PM	#7 (permalink)
CZ-75 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Tri-state Posts: 1,248 Brian iTrader: 0 / 0%	Clamp the fronts and screw the rears.

08-30-2007, 03:48 PM	#8 (permalink)
firstsi Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: shooting womprats from 3 parseks Posts: 4,263 iTrader: 0 / 0%	not on the rears the tool you need is only a couple of bucks at you local autoparts place its a square piece with different ears on eacn side i think i just left the ratchet in foward and cranked away it wasnt hard

08-30-2007, 03:48 PM	#9 (permalink)
firstsi Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: shooting womprats from 3 parseks Posts: 4,263 iTrader: 0 / 0%	delete dbl post

08-30-2007, 04:42 PM	#10 (permalink)
mtbiker278 Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 49 iTrader: 0 / 0%	thanks guys! brake pads came in during lunch, I might just install them today. Is there anything I need to do with the e-brake?

08-30-2007, 08:53 PM	#12 (permalink)
mtbiker278 Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 49 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Just for other people to reference: The Rear brake caliper piston have to be pushed in while turned clockwise to seat them further into the caliper. The rubber brake hose on the driver's side leaves almost no room to work with, so be careful when trying to put the caliper back on the rotor. The passenger side has a dust shroud bolt sticking out that interferes with the e-brake cable mount. You'll have to fiddle around with it to get it back on but shouldn't need to remove the bolt. Thanks again for the help!