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[ortivt6]

Originally Posted by lpages

Car looks much better. What is the rear camber set at now? Still think it needs to be raised up a tad. How's the ride?

The ride is perfect no rubbing or hitting.... Very please with the look... the rear camber is set at exactly -1 degree at both side... the factory specs is between -1.5 and -.05 so its right in between... and remeber I can still get it all the way to positive in the camber if I wanted too...

[ortivt6]

Originally Posted by Duce2k

Car looks great dude...

[AznSupastar]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

I don't know about top of tire to fender because that changes with the size of the tire but, from the middle of the fender to the floor, I run 25.25 in at all four corners. This is what I think is the max with the products that are on the market at the moment. When all the aftermarket dampers (shocks) that are about to come out, they should all have short bodies with long rods which means you can get a little more of a drop and still keep suspension travel. If Ground Control comes out with the upper hats that allow the damper to be mounted higher in the car, then you would be able to lower it even more. Mac Strut suspensions just don't like to be to low. They need suspension travel to be happy (all suspensions do, but its more true for Mac's) and perform at their best. Mac suspensions all so like more static negitve camber. So make sure you get something (plate or bolts) that allows you to add some negitive camber to the fronts. You want a little less negtive camber in the rear because of the mutilink set up. Multilink suspensions gain negitive camber as they compress. Hope that helps. Read the suspsion stickies at the top and read this thread and ALL its links.

Oh hay, understeer!

thx, ya i've read a bit about that link too. just curious, what's the stock camber (front and back)? my rear stock looks a bit negative. and i assume a stock car have 0 toe front and back?

i just find my stock car tend to understeer in general, what can be done to make it oversteer a bit to balance the natural understeer? if u recommend negative on the front...isn't that bad for the tires? i don't have lots of $ to buy tires hence i try to avoid negative or positive camber...

[FijiPhil]

nice drop man.

[GreyK20]

lift the back lower the front

[lpages]

Originally Posted by ortivt6

The ride is perfect no rubbing or hitting.... Very please with the look... the rear camber is set at exactly -1 degree at both side... the factory specs is between -1.5 and -.05 so its right in between... and remeber I can still get it all the way to positive in the camber if I wanted too...

-1 degree is perfect, that's where mine is set too.

[ortivt6]

Originally Posted by FijiPhil

nice drop man.

[ortivt6]

Originally Posted by GreyK20

lift the back lower the front

If i lower the front it will be too low and hit on speed bumps and drive ways... and if I lift the back it will look too high!!! Remeber that the HFP lip kit the back lip sits a bit higher than the front lip so u have to sit it a bit lower to make it look even...

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by AznSupastar

thx, ya i've read a bit about that link too. just curious, what's the stock camber (front and back)? my rear stock looks a bit negative. and i assume a stock car have 0 toe front and back?

i just find my stock car tend to understeer in general, what can be done to make it oversteer a bit to balance the natural understeer? if u recommend negative on the front...isn't that bad for the tires? i don't have lots of $ to buy tires hence i try to avoid negative or positive camber...

Stock Front camber is about 0 degrees and rear is about -1 degrees. If you want something cheap to change the balance, Get 4 camber bolts for the front, 2 per side an about 30 bucks a pair at corsport. Put them in, go to and alignment shop and tell them to max out negitive camber and positive caster in the front but tell the shop it HAS TO BE EVEN ON BOTH SIDES or your car will pull to one side. If you drive you car with spirit often enough, you won't notice too much inside shoulder tire wear. If that is not enough oversteer for you, and you can afford it and can wait a little while for them to come out, (they should be 600-700 for the set) I'd say get some after market dampers (shocks) from Koni or KYB or Tokico. I like Konis and will have some custom ones soon. Dampers make the biggest difference in handling. Then, if that is not enough, get some Ground Control springs for 400. You can get any spring rate you want with GC springs. If you call them and give them an idea of what you want and already have, they will give you something good if you don't already know the spring rates that you want. Then, if that is still not enough, get a rear sway bar. Then if thats not enough, get a smaller front sway bar from a DX/LX/EX. I think that will just about cover it. Ohhhh one more thing. Only do one mod at a time so you get a feel for what the car is doing.

[Forklift352]

Sooooooo I need 2 sets for the front?

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by Forklift352

Sooooooo I need 2 sets for the front?

I'm assuming you are refering to cabmer bolts? One bolt will only get you about -1 degree of camber and 2 bolts will get you -2 degrees. Here is a little DIY on the camber bolts.

DIY (sort of) SPC Camber Bolts Install

[ortivt6]

[Sirbelch]

^^^ those are rear camber arms not front camber bolts. If you are not changing spirngs then the rear arms are not needed because the stock rear suspension already has -1 degree of camber.

[ortivt6]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

^^^ those are rear camber arms not front camber bolts. If you are not changing spirngs then the rear arms are not needed because the stock rear suspension already has -1 degree of camber.

But remeber that the stock ones dont adjust at all!!! The SKUNK2 are adj. +-3 degree and they are also 25% lighter, better built, and have the poly bushings to have a better feel...

[Sirbelch]

True true. But if you don't have 250 bucks to spend ... Also adding rear negitive camber without increasing front negitive camber is only going to make the car have more understeer than it already does. I have the silver skunk 2's. I don't like any thing gold and soon i will be rid of my crapy Tein Flex's (with gold rear spring purches) for RSM Custom Koni Coilovers.

[ortivt6]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

True true. But if you don't have 250 bucks to spend ... Also adding rear negitive camber without increasing front negitive camber is only going to make the car have more understeer than it already does. I have the silver skunk 2's. I don't like any thing gold and soon i will be rid of my crapy Tein Flex's (with gold rear spring purches) for RSM Custom Koni Coilovers.

I got the gold to match the spring with the gold adj. part... I love my basic TEIN... Ohh I only pay 190 for them on ebay and FREE shipping...

[AznSupastar]

Originally Posted by ortivt6

I got the gold to match the spring with the gold adj. part... I love my basic TEIN... Ohh I only pay 190 for them on ebay and FREE shipping...

what the hell...WHERE?! r they legit? 190 sounds stolen! haha

[AznSupastar]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

Stock Front camber is about 0 degrees and rear is about -1 degrees. If you want something cheap to change the balance, Get 4 camber bolts for the front, 2 per side an about 30 bucks a pair at corsport. Put them in, go to and alignment shop and tell them to max out negitive camber and positive caster in the front but tell the shop it HAS TO BE EVEN ON BOTH SIDES or your car will pull to one side. If you drive you car with spirit often enough, you won't notice too much inside shoulder tire wear. If that is not enough oversteer for you, and you can afford it and can wait a little while for them to come out, (they should be 600-700 for the set) I'd say get some after market dampers (shocks) from Koni or KYB or Tokico. I like Konis and will have some custom ones soon. Dampers make the biggest difference in handling. Then, if that is not enough, get some Ground Control springs for 400. You can get any spring rate you want with GC springs. If you call them and give them an idea of what you want and already have, they will give you something good if you don't already know the spring rates that you want. Then, if that is still not enough, get a rear sway bar. Then if thats not enough, get a smaller front sway bar from a DX/LX/EX. I think that will just about cover it. Ohhhh one more thing. Only do one mod at a time so you get a feel for what the car is doing.

wow u r a hardcore suspension / handling alignment guy!

thx 4 tips. my car is typically 95% for daily use which is driven at legal speed limit. 5% track & autocross few times per year, and the odd time taking a right turn corner a bit faster (where i mostly find the understeer). n i'm planning on lower on tein basic also, i don't plan on getting a smaller front sway either.

i guess a few negative camber won't hurt either assuming it won't wear out my tires too quickly. so by just playing with tire pressure or camber to creat more oversteer. would u recommend -1 in front, and 0 in back? (i assume negative camber gives grip, so by having more grip in front and less grip in back will make the tail slide out more?!?!) thx again

[Sirbelch]

I have always perfered handling over straight line before I came on this site. I thought I knew a lot of stuff until i met Highrev1. He opened my eyes and now I see that i knew nothing, almost, and now i am a handling junkie that is out to spread the would of the Handling God.

I would not recomend 0 degrees of camber in the back. It takes a skilled driver to handle that lack of grip in the back on the track and on the street that can get you in trouble. You want the back to stick, but you want the front to stick more. I'd say AT LEAST -1.5 in the front and -1 in the rear. I run almost -2 in the front and -1.25 ish in the rear. Teins suck. I had Tein SS for a year and now Tein Flex for 4 months and i'm getting rid of those. With off the shelf coilovers, the manufacture keeps cost down by putting cheap dampers in them. The damper is the most expensive part of the suspension and has the biggest effect on handling. Dampers control roll, dive squat, and how the car reacts to bumps. Springs just keep the car off the ground. If you want something better than Tein, or any off the shelf coilover for under 2000, get some Koni Yellows and some Ground Control springs (made by Eibach). Bothe Koni and Eibach make dampers and springs for F1 Teams, thats how good their products are. Tein cant say that. Buddy club can't say that. Megen, Apex, ARC ...

[ortivt6]

Originally Posted by AznSupastar

what the hell...WHERE?! r they legit? 190 sounds stolen! haha

LOL nope they were stole... I though At first they were used but they arrive BRAND NEW UNOPEN BOX!!! They retail for $316.54... Here the link of the seller I bought mines from at ONLY $190 out the door with FREE shipping!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK...spagenameZWDVW

Now remeber u have to choose the right color... Check out he score at 99.8% positive!!!