When To Use Camber Kits?/do I Need A Camber Kit?

[Profoxcg]

thank you !

[Profoxcg]

guys, what is the best way to slide / move the camber plates (for the front)
when the car is sitting on the tires, and you undo the bolts on the camber plates, the plates still do not slide because the weight of the car... if I jack the car up, and begin to undo the bolts, the sturt being to fall out because you have the tires and whole stut assembly hanging for it... this makes it very hard to set my camber.. can someone please share their method? I do own a digital camber gauge.. and I was abel to do the rears of my car very easily, but the front is so HARD !! and I thought camber plates were meant to make things very easy.

My car was placed on tiles to level my floor surface, but I didnt put any grease of salt on my tiles, so every times I changes the camber (rear) I went for a drive to settle the suspension...

I know I am on the right track but I need some extra help please. These front camber plates are starting to dissapoint me

[Sirbelch]

You are going to have to jack the car up.
Don't completely unscrew the bolts on the camber plates. Just loosen them enough to slide it back and forth.

[Profoxcg]

Even though the tire and suspension assembly will weight down the shock?
do you completely lift the front end of the ground?
do you take the tire out?

In term of an aligment surface,

when I did my camber today, I places two tile-ples for one end of the car (axle) to go on, so I did the rear first, and then I did the front (or tried) which meant that when I was doing the rear the front was sitting on an unleveled floor and visaversa.. do you think that would throw off my measurement for the end of the car I am working on?

Thank you.

PS. what do you do to settle the suspension to recheck your work?

[Sirbelch]

I lift the car off the ground, take off the tire, loosen the camber plates bolts (do not take them out) adjust it, put the tires back on, lower the car and measure. Thats what I did.

I just do it in the garage. As long as the floor level, its fine. Just don't measure when you have the car jacked up. Only adjust the side that is jacked up.

Your suspension shouldn't need to settle. You aren't taking out the suspension. It should still all be bolted to the car.

[Profoxcg]

I HATE camber plates, they are HARD as heck to work with. They do not make anything simpler, they are complicated to work with and I much rather have camber bolts in the front at well. My plates keep getting stuck.

[Frank20]

Hey everyone, I got a couple questions about camber. Sorry if some have already been answered. I did read about all of the 8 pgs here.

Anyways I just installed my buddy club n+ coils, skunk2 rear camber kit and ingalls front camber bolts.

1.) First of all...i only used two bolts up front. One on each side...i replaced the upper strut bolt on both sides. And have the tabs facing inwards for negative camber. Is this right or do i need to buy another pair and replace both bolts on both sides?

2.) After the front bolts were installed i noticed my right tire was already negativley cambered without adjustment, but my left tire seems to be straight or maybe even a little positively cambered. This can be fixed once an alignment is done and the negative camber is dialed in...correct?

3.) I am going to be running about a 2 inch drop...what would be recommended for camber for front and rear? I was thinking -1.5 in the front and -1 in the rear?

Thanks in advance!

[Frank20]

^ anyone? Getting my allignment tomorrow kind of need to know what specs to tell the shop. Thanks!

[InSearchOfTheMonkey]

Why Camber does not eat tires...

it does. Caster dosent nor does SAI but it can cause a less desirable steering situation. I love the write up. I am finishing my HFP set-up and alignment. I'm going to try negative camber set up. but maybe 1/2 degree... instead of 1.5 too much negative camber is murder for your tires.



3.5 neg camber... like riding on bike tires on the inside. the goal is to have the tires meet the surface of the road. when a car squats during a turn is when the camber really makes a difference.
just a better understanding of camber. its like walking on the side of your feet. positive toe is like duck feet, negative is like having your feet pointed in. Negative caster is like walking leaned back and positive caster is like walking leaning forward. Just a quick reference...

[jrotax101]

actually, toe eats tires, camber does not eat tires, it just causes the wear to be uneven.


Frank, you are correct about the bolts, those specs seem fine, however i'm not sure you can get to them with just the bolts.

[InSearchOfTheMonkey]

Toe-

Camber-


Both either way eats tires in my opinion.

[simons2k]

Am I correct in thinking that once lowered (Eibach Pro Kit) the rear camber can still acheive a -1 setting since it's within oem range?

I plan on getting a front camber kit but not sure if the rear is necessary. ??

[meeks]

more reference

[Frank20]

What is the stock camber # up front on our civics? Is it 0?

[JDMReddy]

.... 8 pages... i rarely post but the first two pages were great... after that i felt like i was watching re-runs on tv...

--here is something not mentioned in this thread, is the average range of setting for those of us 8thgens who plan on hitting the track... i personaly can't wait for that day!!!how about it???

[csxian]

I just swap my 16" stock wheel with 18" aftermarket. Do you think the camber will change? Do I need an alignment just for wheel swap? I saw a negative camber on my rear and I'm not sure if it's factory setting/normal or not.
Is it possible for factory setting to have more negative camber on left rear wheel than on the right rear wheel?

[Sirbelch]

If you lower the car, the rear camber will become more negative. To adjust it, you need rear camber arms.

Camber for a track car depends on your spring rate. The higher the rate, the less camber you need because the car doesnt roll as much with a stiffer spring. That said, you really need to set camber based on tire temps. If the outside is hotter than the inside, add more negative camber. Do the opposite if the inside is hot. So, you pretty much need to go to the track and find out.

Getting bigger wheels does not increase camber but it does increase our ability to see it because there is a greater distance between each side of the tire with a bigger wheel. Look at any stock civic and you should be able to see negative camber in the rear.

[simons2k]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

If you lower the car, the rear camber will become more negative. To adjust it, you need rear camber arms.

Camber for a track car depends on your spring rate. The higher the rate, the less camber you need because the car doesnt roll as much with a stiffer spring. That said, you really need to set camber based on tire temps. If the outside is hotter than the inside, add more negative camber. Do the opposite if the inside is hot. So, you pretty much need to go to the track and find out.

Getting bigger wheels does not increase camber but it does increase our ability to see it because there is a greater distance between each side of the tire with a bigger wheel. Look at any stock civic and you should be able to see negative camber in the rear.

So there is no rear camber adjustment at all with oem?

[csxian]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

Getting bigger wheels does not increase camber but it does increase our ability to see it because there is a greater distance between each side of the tire with a bigger wheel. Look at any stock civic and you should be able to see negative camber in the rear.

So I don't need to worry about my rear negative camber on my stock suspension, right? Thanks for your comment, it eases my worry.

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by simons2k

So there is no rear camber adjustment at all with oem?

Nope. None. Zero.

Originally Posted by csxian

So I don't need to worry about my rear negative camber on my stock suspension, right? Thanks for your comment, it eases my worry.

Nope. The camber didn't change.