When To Use Camber Kits?/do I Need A Camber Kit?

[Sirbelch]

Our cars suspension is a completely different world than an 00 civic. Those civics you could get away with it being slammed and not having an alignment. You can't get away with that stuff in our cars. I'm sure you will be fine with one bolt. It will improve handing and won't cost anything in tire wear.

[Ek37]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

Our cars suspension is a completely different world than an 00 civic. Those civics you could get away with it being slammed and not having an alignment. You can't get away with that stuff in our cars. I'm sure you will be fine with one bolt. It will improve handing and won't cost anything in tire wear.

thank you, which hole should i stick the bolts in the bottom or top or doesnt matter.

[ac2539]

so I got my SPC Front camber bolts installed.

I wanted -1.5 in the front, -1.0 in the rear. Ended up getting -1.5 in the front, -2.0 in the rear, at first they said they couldnt do anything about the rear, then i said that i have adjustable arms in the rear, he said "really?", i said yea you guys installed them, then he said that that was the best they could do in the rear. opinions (on performance/tire life, and not being able to go -1.0 in the rear)? he also kept saying it'll eat my tires "really fast"

[Highrev1]

They always say WTF are you doing, you don't know your head from your Ass...Blah blah blah..THey are just used to setting these things to Factory settings...They said you ran out of adjustment in the rear? What kit?

[ac2539]

SPC front and rear


before the alignment it was previously -1.5 in the rear

[ac2539]

Originally Posted by ac2539

dude, i just got my rear camber kit installed and i told them somewhere between -1 to -1.25, and when i got my car back, its set at -1.50. Is is really that much of a problem to get it to a certain setting?

^^ same guys that did that ^^

[Highrev1]

He just didnt want to redo the rear He set it and said eh I can't change it sorry THats what I think

[ac2539]

i think so too, damn it. these guys are family friends too, im disappointed they dont treat me better. what about tread life and performance vs -1.5f -1.0r?

[FG2uner]

ok, sorry if its been posted, but 6 pages is a little too much to read.... im dropped on tien s tech springs.... camber kit, yes no? for the front or the rear?

[Highrev1]

Originally Posted by ac2539

i think so too, damn it. these guys are family friends too, im disappointed they dont treat me better. what about tread life and performance vs -1.5f -1.0r?

Minimal wear...Really make your commute or your regular drive, do it 5 minutes early and take some tire temp tests see if there even across the tire...

Originally Posted by FG2uner

ok, sorry if its been posted, but 6 pages is a little too much to read.... im dropped on tien s tech springs.... camber kit, yes no? for the front or the rear?

YEs both front and rear, just read the first post...

[nelsonr31]

Highrev1, thanks for the excellent advice on alignment settings. I just got my alignment done today and followed your advice for the camber settings, and I must say the car feels so much more nimble on the curves and the turn in is awesome.
+1 rep for you...Thanks

[07 Honda SI]

Hey what is the normal cost of install for f&r camber kits?

[mwinters601]

I wish more people would read this and get the point that an alignment is very important after replacing springs, period.

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by mwinters601

I wish more people would read this and get the point that an alignment is very important after replacing springs, period.

The purpose of this thread is promote getting a non factory alignment to help improve hanlding. It is assumed that people get an alignment after they put springs on. This thread just wants them to get adjustable camber parts in order to maximize the performance of their springs.

[civicracer32]

I think I have a good question...

HFP suspension. Once I go to an alignment shop, and they zero out the toe, what are the camber settings going to be on an Fg2 without a camber kit?

Assuming this is a common setup. Anyone?

[Sirbelch]

Front should be close to 0 and the rear should be -1.7 to -2.5 degrees. How do I know that when I don't have the HFP suspesion, I've done my own research.

[lonelydriver]

Need your help Highrev.

Does having negative camber in the front have more effect than having camber in the rear? I just don't see a point of having much rear camber unless the car is accelerating out of a turn but our cars do not fully take advantage of our rear wheels to accelerate out a turn, so there isn't really a need to have that much camber as the stock setting since it doesn't fully benefit it (I'm just saying stuff here and I don't know if I'm right or wrong). I was planning to get ~1.0 neg camber up front and ~0 camber up back using the revised stock arm based on TSB 08-001. From my understanding, our rear suspension is designed to increase in negative camber during load or if the car is lowered (I'm planning to lower the car about an inch). Toe will be 0 all around. What do you think? I hope this make sense.

I'm a complete newbie about this..

[foch3]

Wow Lonelydriver you are thinking along the exact same lines as me I was just about to post that.

So HighRev/sirbelch and all other guru's, would -.5 in the rear and -1.5 in the front get us a better handling machine?

[LucasBlack]

Originally Posted by foch3

Wow Lonelydriver you are thinking along the exact same lines as me I was just about to post that.

So HighRev/sirbelch and all other guru's, would -.5 in the rear and -1.5 in the front get us a better handling machine?

typically, a ratio of negative camber that favors the front is more conducive toward better rotation for us. with that being said, our cars come stock with around a degree of neg. camber in the rear (if i recall correctly), and when really trying to yank some performance out of our cars, that amount of camber is beneficial (ex: consider higher speed mid-turn throttle lifting accompanied with added turn-in -- the last thing you want is for the back end to let go). and as much as we can benefit from added rotation/minimized understeer, we want to reach that appropriately/safely.

so therefore, reducing the camber in the rear to -.5 wouldn't necessarily be "bad", i just wouldn't recommend it per se.
and with that then, i would recommend trying to run a bit more neg. camber in the front than -1.5, but if you wish to only run that much, that is fine as well.

grip in the rear, for us, really comes into question when we're not accelerating, when weight isn't being transferred rearward to help plant the tires and beneficially causing the rear end to squat and induce added neg. camber.

depending on what your daily commute is like, then running a degree of neg. camber in the rear shouldn't cause too much adverse tire wear. for example, i'm not on the highways all that long on a regular basis, and i can be said to be somewhat of a "spirited" corner carver, so my rear tires are getting rather even wear. (can't say the same for the front, since everything is still stock and the shoulder of my front tires hate me)

it's all about compromise when dealing with our cars as daily drivers....learn as much as possible, then mod. have fun.

[streetmachine02]

i need help, i have these skunk 2 camber arms. they have been installed for around a year. the passanger side rear arm was making a noise, it sounded like the bushing, they were set to 5 showing threads. i took off the camber arm and set it to the stock setting. the camber was visually off, so i took off the kit and adjusted it to 2 showing threads. there is still camber so i think i need to adjust the arm further, but how far is too far?