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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
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Skunk2 drop springs installed
Tried to make this in the DIY section but it said I didn't have the right privledges.. so I'll make it here and Admin can move it over!
Anyway, I ordered up some Skunk2 lowering springs for an '06 FG2.. nervouse about it cuz I have a '07 FA5... check my initial thread about it all here: Just did it Anyway, I finally put them on using the DIY from Silverciv06. His attention to detail made my job super easy, and I was done start to finish in 4 1/2 hours. That was breaking for lunch and tending to the kids a few times too, so total time for me was 3 1/2 hours as a guess. Here is what I used for the job: For the lugs I used: - 1/2" drive breaker bar - 19mm 1/2" drive socket - 1/2" drive torque wrench upon reinstall I torqued all the lugs down to 85 ft lbs.. don't know the actual requirement, but I figured that would be close Here is for the various sections of the rest of the removal/install process: - 12mm 3/8" drive socket - 14mm 3/8" drive socket - 3" 3/8" drive extension - 2" 1/2" drive extension - 14mm 1/2" drive socket - 17mm 1/2" drive socket - 19mm combo wrench - 3/8" drive ratchet - 1/2" drive ratchet - #6mm Allen Wrench - flat tip screwdriver (for the little line clips on the front shocks) Those are the basics that you need to do this job. I had some additional tools I needed to use. Each job and each person may or may not require additional tools. I have my own set of axle stands, along with a variety of jacks. Please be safe when putting your car in the air. Always use axle stands and place them in the proper locations (behind front tires & in front of rear tires). No one should ever lift their car with the jack alone and then start working on it. Like Silverciv06 says, don't attempt this unless you have your own, can borrow, or can rent some spring compressors. I have my own, used them, and a 23mm socket to turn the bolt. Different spring compressors will require different sockets... if your renting or borrowing make sure you have the size you need before you start the job. Because the upper nut on the shock is sunken into the top hat I had to figure out a way to loosen it. Silverciv06 said "next take an allen wrench and hold while you loosen the nut on the top of the strut assembly."... I ended up taking a 17mm socket and placing it on the bolt and holding it in place with some vice grips. Then I took the #6 allen wrench and slipped it through the squared end where a ratchet would go. Used a bit of elbow greese and took the bolt off this way. Earlier Civics the nut was above the top hat and was easy to get off with a combo wrench and a allen wrench. Any way, if anyone is getting prepared to lower their 8th gen Civic I highly suggest taking a good read through of Silverciv06's DIY... I pulled mine up on a laptop and had it with me in the garage incase I needed to reference a picture or step (which I did! ) He made a great DIY and it really helped the job go smoothly. Here are some pics of my install, if you want step by step instructions check out his DIY:step by step lowering an si 06 Here are the Skunks.. brand new in box for $141 shipped. ![]() ![]() ![]() Sitting next to the old springs... not much of a height difference off the car, but don't let that fool you. ![]() ![]() All four corners from LF clockwise to LR: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Before: ![]() And after: ![]() ![]() When I was done putting everything back together, before I put the wheels on, I did a walk around and made sure everything was tight and that I didn't forget anything. Also a good way to make sure you've picked up all your tools. I put the tires back on, the lugs on, set the car on the ground and then torqued the lugs down. Then I walked around again, double checked for tools or hazards, and made sure everything was seated properly. Then I took it down the road at low speeds to make sure there weren't any grinds/knocks/twitches/tears or any other weird noises that weren't there before. To kick a sleeping dog again, be safe and always double check. Never hurts to take a few mins to walk around and check your work instead of just heading off down the road at break-neck speeds and lose a tire or something! Good luck and happy wrenching!
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Skunk2 advertises a 2.25" front/2" rear drop with their springs, yet your car's ride height looks about the same as my EX sedan on sportlines. Interesting. Congrats on the install; the car definitely looks better now that it's been lowered. Now head down to Autozone and buy some Armor All Extreme Tire Shine Gel.
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#5 (permalink) |
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VIP Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: teh white house
Age: 23
Posts: 52,011
205whp 147tq :D
iTrader: 37 / 100%
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Wow... looks good
I think it was the thread where someone put the mugen suspension on a FG2. I could be wrong ,but hey if you don't have any problems bravo! Doesn't look like the drop was as much as it was on my fg2. We'll just have to wait for it to settle and take a look. great job -repped |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Member
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yeah, it lowered a little bit more... as far as the ride quality, it stiffened up quite a bit. Its not bad tho, you can really tell when hitting bumps and potholes too I imagine, but I've been lucky so far and have avoided those! If your looking for stock ride quality then you won't find it with the Skunks. But if you want a nice drop, a stiffer ride that won't kill your back and knock your teeth out then I say got for it.
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#14 (permalink) |
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what about a rear camber kit? didn't feel the need to install a set?
I don't have a rear view of your car, so I can't really tell if your rear wheels are cambered inwards. I've had experience ignoring camber on my previous civic (coupe, 2003) and my tires would wear out FAST. and you didn't mention doing an alignment. any help is appreciated. thanks! |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Member
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I do have negative camber in the rear but I didn't do a rear camber kit because it wasn't in my budget. The camber isn't that bad though, so its not something I'm overly concerned with. Eventually I want to get one, but in my opinion for my car its not something that has to be done immediately. Others of course will disagree.
I didn't get an alignment because my car doesn't need one. Driving straight I can let go of the wheel and the car continues straight just like it should. Taking turns its not loose or anything, it feels great. I have a '92 hatch that I lowered and it was horrible. The front was loose and it wanted to drift side to side so I got an alignment with it and it fixed the issue. I'll see if I can get some pics snapped and posted today of the camber. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Member
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Here are the pics as promised... the front isn't bad, and if I had to use my eyeball-camber gauge I'd say there is a tad positive camber in the front:
![]() ![]() The rear there is negative... Some people may gasp in disbelief that I'm not using a camber correction kit, but in my minds eye its not that bad. Like I've said before, I will eventually get a camber kit, but no job plus a wife and 2 kids kinda puts a hold on the influx of new car parts. ![]() ![]() Also, sorry for the dirty car, but its been horribly rainy here and I just can't keep the darn thing clean! |
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#18 (permalink) |
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thanks for the pics,
yeah, the rears are definitely cambered inwards. since those are stock michelins, they probably won't wear out as fast as say....my yokohama parada spec-2's. those were worn out ridiculously fast because of the camber. but yeah, that's my problem with lowering my car. it's gonna cost me another $200 for the rear camber kit. so instead of just being around $200 for the springs and $65-$100 for install. it's gonna be almost $500-600 to drop my car. on my last car, because I lowered it so much, and i wanted teh camber to be correct on the rear and front, I had to cut the fender wells in the rear because it was rubbing, and that was even with 205/40/17 tires. |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
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i want in too! and also, i ordered skunk 2's too and i got 18 in wheels. do you think the tires would rub? does the stock ones? |
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