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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Searching for the BAR!!
I run the LX front bar now at 25.4mm. Looking for somthing smaller ANYONE?? I would like to run like a 15mm like I used to on my ep3. I searched, Anyone know what front bar comes with the hybrids? EDIT: Hybrid 4dr is a 24.2mm bar but still kinda big. If we don't find a factory bar that is small enough I am gonna get it made who else would be interested?
Yeah I am stuck at work tonight thats why so many threads. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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96% of all my post are at work. I'm at work right now. honda's web site says the front bar for the hybrid is 24.2mm |
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#3 (permalink) | ||
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63.7% Bostonian.
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You're probably afraid of me being anywhere near a swaybar I kid, I kid....
__________________
. Si away for the winter ![]() Winter projects: - LED taillights (following in Nomar's footsteps) - two-tone seats - misc electrical stuff - audio overhaul - random powdercoating Quote:
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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how much of a difference did the 25.4mm bar make? i'm assuming the car tends to understeer a little less, but how is turn-in? overall feel? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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i drive a si sedan, which does have a smaller front bar than the si coupe, but i'd prefer running a larger rear bar before i would consider running a larger front.
all in all, i don't think i would want to go too "extreme" one way or the other as far as bar sizes are concerned. i would much rather get some uprated springs and better dampers, and do a mild bar swap rather than throw some huge tree trunk under the back of my car and leave it at that. :) overall: still just curious on a mild bar "down-grade" in the front.... |
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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Senior Member
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"The objective in driving through a corner, or a series of corners, is to have the fastest possible speed at the exit of corner, or the last corner of a series. It is not necessarily to have the fastest speed going into the corner, nor even the fastest speed in the middle of the corner. The last corner exit before a straight is the most important segment." |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Right now I have (on my LX) HFP suspension, rear oem Si sway bar @ 17mm solid. And my stock 25.4mm front sway bar. Also, the front upper strut bar from Carbing. I'm thinking about the front si sway bar. I believe if you down grade your front bar that you will worsen your cars evasive manuvering. Like dodging obstacles etc... because you will experience more body roll in the front. When i put my Carbing strut bar on, I noticed a stiffer chassis, more direct lane changes, quicker reaction to my steering. Similarly, I believe all this will suffer a bit if you get a smaller front anti-sway bar.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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(Andrei'sCivic) - if you were running a damper/spring combo that was more aggressive than the HFP, i believe it possible that you could be quite reasonably satisfied with your current swaybar setup.
on that same note - obviously running an HFP kit is (and in no way is this an insult) adhering to the reality of compromise. so therefore it might be possible that with your setup as is, a larger front bar might just be right up your alley. and what better than a Honda OEM upgrade? :) |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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I just...kinda feel like I want it a little stiffer up front and more responsive, I have a feeling however that if I do this than I will have to upgrade the rear sway bar from my Si one to progress. But the only option i know of is the 22mm Progress rear sway. Any otherbrands sizes between 17mm and 22mm? Ever since that guy created that thread, showing us his broken metal tab (which is welded to the lower control arm, which the end link connects to.) I don't feel like getting the Progress rear sway, but like I mentioned I think in the future if I upgrade my front sway bar to the Si one that I will get the feeling that my rear end isn't as stiff in comparsion. And at the moment I don't have money for Si rear lower control arms (which might not hook up to my drum brakes) |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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i understand your worry about the progress rear swaybar. i pretty much have the same worry, which is also partially why i've been more so considering a smaller front bar rather than upgrading the rear.
- on that same note, i've been trying to find out the size on the fd2 jdm civic type-r rear bar, and see if that might be an 'ok' upgrade to the 17mm bar we have now. are you running camber bolts up front? because i'm curious if being able to run some neg. camber (that won't really adversely affect your tire wear) might give you that turn-in bite you're looking for. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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If you say so, dude. You apparantly know. I had to dodge a ladder, out of all things, on the highway this morning. Just a quick flick to the left and then to the right and I was out of harm's way. Didn't even have to let off the gas as that 6 foot bastard came sliding towards me. You make it sound like it's some huge and terrible swap when in all reality the changes aren't that insane. The car has a little more body roll but turn-in isn't sacrificed much (if any) and you're not going to have any problems avoiding anything that gets in your way. Last edited by RWatters; 07-02-2007 at 05:00 PM. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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"Fun thing about anti-roll bars. in doing thier jobs of resisting body roll, they also increase the load on the outside tire. which, given the way tires make traction, means that there is a Net reduction in the total amount of traction that end of the car can make (the end with the stiffer anti-roll bar). So... in some cases, it may be advantagious to reduce the effectiveness of an antiroll bar. Such as on the front of a FWD car. As weight is increased on a tire that tire generates a greater amount of traction, HOWEVER, that tires coeffecent of friction decreases as weight is applied. Meaning traction increases at a decreasing rate as weight is applied, so there will be a point where the amount of traction gained is less then the amount of weight on the tire, and the tire slips. This also means that a tire will gain traction at a slower rate as weight is applied then it will lose traction as weight is removed." Meaning, weight transfer = an overall reduction in the amount of traction a car can make.... THE most traction your car will ever make is when it is sitting in a parking spot...think about it." |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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uhh....good job dodging the ladder. |
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