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| View Poll Results: Has this happened to you? (Only vote if you fall into the following categories) | |||
| Yes, with a Progress rear sway bar |
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13 | 6.88% |
| Yes, with another aftermarket rear sway bar |
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1 | 0.53% |
| No, but my stock end links broke |
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9 | 4.76% |
It won't ever happen to me because this thread really scared me!
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166 | 87.83% |
| Voters: 189. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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LinkBack (7) | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#221 (permalink) |
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8thcivic Sponsor
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I've had the Progress rear sway bar on the car for a year and I haven't had any issues. The endlinks are still attached to the LCA, that is for sure - it's just about oil change time so I'll be sure to check for any signs of a impending damage when the car is in the air.
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#222 (permalink) |
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Member
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Clarifications and plans to install PSB
OK, so been reading this thread backwards, forwards, and am looking at my Progress sway bar in the kitchen corner (gf luvs me!). Car is currently getting the Vibrant RC w/ HF cat and Vibrant exhaust put on it today. 07 Si Sedan. Could not wait till Vibrant came out with exhaust that bolted to the Sedan, so having it extended 2" by shop with same grade stainless.
I held off on PSB due to this thread. but don't want to wait any longer to bolt up Progress SB. Side note-bought all parts from Exxelerate, he rocks! Good to deal with and answers occasional call from me. Q>It seems-only 1 person has reported the LCA bracket tearing with a proper install on SI? Q>Original problem was improper install on non SI missing the brackets? So it seems pretty low occurrence, but still....may as well address at install for peace of mind Plan of attack-I went and ordered the self-locking nut and flange nut (qty 2 each below) as I saw the service manual instructions in this thread reccomened NEW for these. part numbers for my car are: 90002-S10-000 NUT, FLANGE (10MM) 90212-SA5-003 NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM) 17.24 shipped (3.62 parts, 4.95 handling,shipping 8.67) Go to your online catalog at collegehillshonda OR majestichonda and dive into the "rear lower arm". majestic has treated me well. Am gonna have my shop in Brewster, MA weld a 5/16" washer to each side of each LCA bracket. new above parts, follow the Service manual instructions.... |
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#223 (permalink) |
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VIP Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: huntington beach, ca
Age: 21
Posts: 1,785
captain obvious
iTrader: 0 / 0%
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it's more than one person...
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#224 (permalink) | ||
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Hail corporate masters.
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And eugenekim has an Si, which would be a direct swap, so that discounts the theory that it was my install that did it.
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#225 (permalink) |
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Member
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Gotcha, read the Poll. 6 total. Yikes. Anyway, I as well noted some failures of the stock end links on the Poll. Besides the welding of washers, should i just buck down and get the Hotchkiss end links now? Car break downs fer me always happen when on road trip, Sunday night, and 3 hours away from home. Rather spend a little, and have it done once right...to best of my knowledge.
Dont wanna wait multi-weeks fer that LCA bracket to come out.... |
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#226 (permalink) | |
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VIP Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: huntington beach, ca
Age: 21
Posts: 1,785
captain obvious
iTrader: 0 / 0%
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Quote:
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http://iamnotabookofanswers.blogspot.com |
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#227 (permalink) |
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Member
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I would hate to weld washers both sides of each bracket, install the new self locking nut and flanges from dealer ordered, follow the service manual steps to be careful (and not those progress instructions), and leave OEM end links to have those break on me!
Think gonna get the hotchkis just to have peace o mind. sigh... |
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#228 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,738
2007 Taffeta White Si Coupe
iTrader: 5 / 100%
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Quote:
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#229 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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WOW am new to all this, and i purchase the swaybar from a member here, am about to go check my car for damage, eather way i do have access to a welder so am about to make my own reinforce metal pieces, just to be safe, becuase this can happen to anyone i don't care how you install it, the area where is breaking looks weak anyways.
![]() I can't belive i just read 23 pages of this lol.. |
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#236 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I got my corsports endlinks install today, my swaybar is doing fine, and while my car was ont he lift i told the guy that has helping me install this about the problem we are having and i ask him to weld me something on there to make that area stronger and he said it will make it weaker if we did. so what we did was add a washer on both sides, the endlinks come wiht 1 washer and its big, so we added another on the other side and now it looks like it should hold just fine.
I will post pictures for you guys i as soon as i get my camera back, sometime later in the week. |
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#237 (permalink) | ||
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Hail corporate masters.
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I don't want to make it seem like I'm shooting the messenger, but I fail to see how welding additional metal onto the bracket would make it weaker.
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#239 (permalink) | ||
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Hail corporate masters.
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No, I wouldn't think so. Metal fatigue would only be an issue if you're cooling the metal quickly with water, which any welder would know is a cardinal sin. Ironically, metal often has to be heated to a very high temperature to get strong welds, which is why arc welding is always used for structural welding; it's the only method that gets the metal hot enough.
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#240 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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OK ...here is a question that Could have a huge impact on why only certain cars are suffering the tearing out the tabs on the LCA's.
SPRING-RATES have a direct effect on how "hard" the swaybar is working to controll weight transfer and "Lean" ... the softer teh springs, the more the swaybar has to work, the more it works, the more strees it puts on the suspension components it is attached to. MOST aftermarket springs are really just lowering springs, that have similar or slightly more aggressive spring rates than OE ... I would not be surprised if thoose who had tear-out issues are ones with near OE spring rates The reason why I suspect this is based on a past experience ... A number of years ago I owned an EK ..as did a buddy of mine. We both had identical suspension setups ...Koni's with Eibach springs .and a 22mm ITR rear bar (many times stiffer than thw 12mm OE) However his car was running on Eibach Race springs (~350#/450#) and I was running on Eibach Prokits springs(~200#/250#) MY Rear 22mm swaybar Ripped th S**T out of my rear subframe ...his never tore out at all. We both tracked our cars and Bi**ch slapped them continuously Only difference ...he was running higher spring rates, so the swaybar did not have to work as hard, thus put as much stress on the frame ... Sooo for thoose of you who have had issues ..what springs (rates) are you running ? Moose |
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