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#162 (permalink) | |
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As for wheels going as wide as possible, are you talking about stretching the tires for wide tires/smaller tire width? |
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#163 (permalink) | |
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The width of the wheel determines the width of the tire your able to run. In general its always better to have a wider wheel than a skinner one. This has been discussed alot on another forum and the general concensus is that a A heavy wide wheel will always be better than a light skinny one. For Max performance, You want the smallest lighetstt wheel that will fit over your rotor, that is as wide as possible without rubbing the dampers or fenders, and that doesn't unduly stress the wheel bearings. Also the widest tires that you can get int her that doesn't rub under extreme cornering. |
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#164 (permalink) |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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Revy did tell me that he fit a 245 tire on a 7.5 in wide wheel (i think thats the stock width). So with a 9 in wheel, a 245 won't be to much of a stretch. I have read on CRSX that a guy ran 275 up front and 245 in the rear for auto x. We have simular cars but i think that the wheel well is bigger on the rsx. So if measured right, it could fit.
I had a tire rub on the suspension. When i first put my Flex's on, they were wayyyyyyyyy to low and the 235/40/17 on a 8 in wheel with a +45 off set rubbed the spring on the coilover. When i raised it, the rubbing went away. |
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#165 (permalink) | |
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For 9" and 265/35/17 you'd need a 35-ish offset. My concern though was more with how much 10mm lower offsets exactly impact suspension geometry. You could always find creative ways of sticking gigantic tires under the fender. The question is whether the stability/traction benefits outweigh all the negatives. |
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#166 (permalink) |
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jmercado567 does run a 275 up front with a pretty darn low offset...I would be concerned as to how long his wheel bearings will last...as he does track days and Autox..The rear arm is pretty intrusive on the rsx I haven't seen that as of yet on our cars but may come to find out it is also. I have experienced and seen a couple of instances where the rear wheels from hard cornering will flex enough to acutally rub the rear arm. Alothough when installed there was absoutly no indication of rub and there was clearance...could be bushing's but I even had it on my Full poly car so I doubt its bushings.
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#167 (permalink) | |
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I ordered R-Comps and my wheels from tire rack and they refused to put them on cause they weren't within spec....BAH...Somtimes you learn more with going outside of the calculation. I ran a 245's up front on a stock width wheel...THese where R compunds so really they were problaby a street tires equlivalnt of a 265. I got them on there and had no rubbing and the car did MUCH better than when I was running the 225s all around. THen I started to run a staggered setup due to the regulations and ran 245's front and 205's rear this greatly increased rotation....Still not enought to best the mini's but allowed for a fun fast G-stock car. There are rules and there are some that should be followed to the T and others that can be stretched slightly...Wheel to tire width sizing can be one of those stretchable rules... |
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#168 (permalink) |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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I had a little experiment that showed the value of proper suspension frequencies today. California roads are rougher than most dirt roads. I had my suspension set at full soft in the front and full stiff in the rear. On the rare smooth road, the car handled great. It had lots of stick and ok rotation. However, when the road got a little rough, the car just couldn’t stick. It would just bounce around all over the place and was really scary at *cough cough 125 cough*. So, I’m driving on the freeway today, and I realize that the back end of the car is, or feels like its coming off the ground. Sooooo, I thought back to the things that Revy taught me and came to the conclusion that I need to soften the rear end up to make for a better street car. So, before I got back on the road, I set the rear to full soft and took a couple of well known turns and one on ramp. Low and behold, the car handled better that it ever has on those roads. There was a little less rotation, but a lot more stick. It made the car a lot more fun to drive on the streets.
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#169 (permalink) | |
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#170 (permalink) | |
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#172 (permalink) | |
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geography was never a strong subject for me...i'm not seeing a problem. ![]() pushrod suspensions are cool. the actuation of the dampers/springs works off the pushrod which is on a fulcrum setup with the actual direction of compression of the tire. benefits: moves weight of damper/spring inward away from edges/corners of car, and also clears up space in the wheel well for wider tires or for more adjustability on selecting a preferred wheel offset/size/tire size and possibly allowing for more travel without threat of interference. |
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#179 (permalink) |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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I would be looking and Revy's tail lights just like everyone else. I like to race, but I never said I was any good at it. I have a good G meter in my butt and a good processor in my head but my hands and feet aren't smooth or coordinated enough to take advantage it.
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspension-brakes/43130-suspension-theory-chat-thread.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Suspension and Brakes - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 03-02-2008 03:32 AM | |
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