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#446 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pa.Del.Marl.Tristate PA!
Posts: 621
John D. Mckinney
iTrader: 2 / 100%
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6' flat 145 lbs i wouldn't know what thats like... haha no man boobs just a training bra lmao
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![]() anyone realize that this is so on topic... this is suspension thery @ its best! Last edited by JDMReddy; 10-18-2008 at 12:47 PM. |
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#448 (permalink) | |
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S52 > K20
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Atlanta GA and Manchester, England
Age: 2
Posts: 21,526
Robert
iTrader: 14 / 100%
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If you want to die and burst into flames when attempting to turn, run 0 camber up front and -5 in the rear.
If you'd like the car to handle well, run -1.5F/-1.0R and 0 toe, maybe 1/32 toe out up front if you want to be more aggressive. Hope this answers your question.
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#449 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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ok thanks alot! in the first couple of pages of this thread someone stated that more negative in the back was better but thanks for clearing that up for me.
i was suggested to do -2 up front and -1.5 rear with 1/32 toe out front just like you said but i think ill do what you said and go with .5 less since its more of a daily driver. |
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#450 (permalink) | |
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S52 > K20
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Atlanta GA and Manchester, England
Age: 2
Posts: 21,526
Robert
iTrader: 14 / 100%
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even on rwd cars, more negative camber up front is normally the case.. on m3 race cars they run about -3.5F/-2.8R
my track settings are -3/-2.5 You'd probably notice better turn in with the toe rather than the extra .5 degree of camber up front however. Moose, i see you lurking - please correct me if i'm wrong
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#452 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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im getting enkei rpf1 17x8, i dont know what size tires to get, im really low. the tires need to be R-compounds, i will be running at a local race track next season. any idea what tire sizes would fit without rubbing? my quarter panel is covering my tire by .75" and the front by .5". i have stock tires and rims 2 the moment.
Last edited by disboiflaco; 12-08-2008 at 11:02 PM. |
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#453 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#454 (permalink) | ||
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S52 > K20
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Atlanta GA and Manchester, England
Age: 2
Posts: 21,526
Robert
iTrader: 14 / 100%
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Quote:
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#458 (permalink) |
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PM for more info
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hey is this thread still active ?
i have a few questions, ive done plenty of research and gained knowledge in the suspension world. but still would like some reasurance from the pro's that cruise this section. i currently have a 2008 civic lx coupe with all stock suspension and tires.i purchased stock SI complete suspension. purchased a stock SI rear sway bar(ups currently has it) and 1 set of spc front camber bolts from clubrsx(usps currently has them). and i will purchase a stock SI front sway bar as soon as my orders come in the mail. now im having a dilema with a few things, i plan on purchasing rsx type -s 17". as soon as i get the suspension installed i will begin a search and hopefully get them with tires within 2 weeks after install.(for alignment purposes) issue #1- i know i will get the urge to lower the car once the rims are installed and would prefer to do it all in one shot, the problem is stock si spring compression is 200lbs per inch. most of the aftermarket springs are softer which seems to completely miss the point of lowering a car. i know my lx is lighter than an SI so i will not need as much spring compression, prolem is i do not want to be softer than stock(which will probably be equivolent to my lx) id like an equal amount to stiffness but with a 1" drop can anyone recommend a drop spring(other than custom order since im trying to stay within a tight budget)that will give me 1" in the front and 1" or so in the rear and retain the stock (si) stiffness issue#2- since i have stock si dampers and they are going on an lx, when i order the springs do i order for for the Si or Lx ?? lol may seem obvious to order lx but i dont know the difference in height between stock SI and stock LX dampers since my stock lx dampers are still are the car. thanks alot for readin through this blab , and it may seem like im completely noob to suspension but i got the theory pretty much downpack and would just like to see if any flags are thrown that im not thinking up. thanks in advace -Victor :edit: please id like only serious response's from people with knowledge in this criteria, not really looking for the i thinks and it should's. :edit: oh and def no "should have bought an si" seeing as ive only spent about $260 for springs sways and front camber Last edited by Strate L O S S; 12-29-2008 at 09:26 PM. |
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#459 (permalink) |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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HFP, did you look at that? If you did go that route, your Si suspension purchase would be a waste, but it seems like it would best match your needs. I would have suggested it earlier, but I didn't want you to feel bad about your suspension purchase.
In light of that, Ground Control. Look them up. They have a TON of spring rates available. Maybe you could talk to Redshift and get their hardware, which I think works better than the GC hardware.
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You know what the sun's all about when the light go out. |
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#460 (permalink) |
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PM for more info
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thanks for the fast response, i forgot to mention in the above post that my car is only daily driven and hfp is is more than i would like to spend for just springs and dampers. i got the stock si setup for $100 for the springs and dampers, 35$ for the rear bar and will pay w/e the dealers charges for the front sway. it wound up being the logical choice.
i asked you questions on other posts about camber so ill avoid that here. about the springs, Si springs or non Si springs? do you recommend a vendor ? |
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LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspension-brakes/43130-suspension-theory-chat-thread.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Suspension and Brakes - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 03-02-2008 03:32 AM | |
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