Any benefits with adjustable endlinks?

[cojaro]

Aside from being stronger than stock links, adjust corner balance (great if I wanna go in a circle) and being able to eliminate (or increase/decrease, depending) preload on the swaybars, are there any benefits of having adjustable endlinks?

I have the Si sways on my EX (but doubt that they're substantially stiffer to really bend or break the stock links) and I'm debating whether or not to get some aftermarket endlinks. I need some justification on getting some. If there's no benefit to handling over stock endlinks, then I'll forgo buying them.

Well?

(*patiently waits for Highrev1's usual imformative post, as he seems to know a lot about suspension upgrading)

[Highrev1]

Ok so I sit around waiting to answer suspension questions, yeah I am bored when I am not driving

Well there are a couple of reasons why they would benifit you, and why they won't :)
If you were to run a larger exhaust that doesn't sit in the stock location you could use the adjustable links to move the sway bar out of the way. Also the pre-load thing is a big one. When you install the bar you want to do it so the suspension has load on it. With the adjustable endlinks you can adjust out and of that pre-load.
The only con- they can be noisy, I say can cause I had them on my ep3 and never had a noise issue with them just keep em greased and they should be fine. As for the stock endlinks they suck...I have seperated them with stock bar b 4.

[cojaro]

Originally Posted by Highrev1

Ok so I sit around waiting to answer suspension questions, yeah I am bored when I am not driving

Well there are a couple of reasons why they would benifit you, and why they won't :)
If you were to run a larger exhaust that doesn't sit in the stock location you could use the adjustable links to move the sway bar out of the way. Also the pre-load thing is a big one. When you install the bar you want to do it so the suspension has load on it. That way when it reacts to weight transfer it doesn't take that extra milasecond to react. With the adjustable endlinks you can adjust out and of that pre-load.
The only con- they can be noisy, I say can cause I had them on my ep3 and never had a noise issue with them just keep em greased and they should be fine. As for the stock endlinks they suck...I have seperated them with stock bar b 4.

Sounds good! Enough to justify getting themnow, IMO.

[Highrev1]

Which ones? :)

[cojaro]

I was thinking about getting the Corsport ones, unless you have a better suggestion.

[Sirbelch]

Highrev1 is the man in the suspension department.

[Sirbelch]

Does that little picture give rep? I hope it does. If not, how do i do it.

[Highrev1]

Ah Ed's design,

"1. Rubber boot keeps out most contaminants.
2. Smaller size
3. Stronger than Version 1."

Good Choice.

Gotta click the little

Sirbelch Rep Guide

[Sirbelch]

I hella should have looked that up eariler. I would have given way more rep to people.

[Sirbelch]

Highrev, how do you know if your bar has pre load in it?

[Highrev1]

From a performance perspective\/

When you install your endlinks right, have soemone the same weight as you sit in the drivers seat then install the bar.

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by Highrev1

From a performance perspective\/

When you install your endlinks right, have soemone the same weight as you sit in the drivers seat then install the bar.

Thats a good idea, just like you should sit in the car when you get it corner balanced. But how do you tell if the bar as pre load on one side or the other?

[Highrev1]

EASY...All you gotta do is undo the end link at your ride height and the bar should stay in the same spot. Do it with someone of your weight in the car that willlllll make a difference. :)

DONE!!! Happy now

[Highrev1]

On the sway bar topic, if you increase your front bar size thats just silly IMHO. Read the suspension sticky at the top of the page and understand why.

"The truth is, most times you don't want to add a larger front swaybar to your car. Buying a package of front and rear swaybars is a good idea for a road only car, but the bigger front bar will kill your ability to make the front tires grip. In fact, most real racers install a smaller front swaybar or even remove the front swaybar.

So, we offer the rear swaybar only. Keep in mind that a larger rear swaybar causes the car to rotate better, and in some cases you can get in over your head on the road if you don't know what you are doing. Don't install only a bigger rear swaybar unless you are willing to admit that if you spin your car into a big pole, that it's your fault and not ours for recommending it"

[Sirbelch]

thanks. i'm just waiting until comptech is fully operational again and make their rear bar or i might get hotchkis competition set cause in need more rotation out of my Si.

[Highrev1]

NOT THE SET?? Right just the rear bar please!!! :) Well only if you want to handle better

[Sirbelch]

Hotchkis bars are hollow so they are lighter and stiffer. Their kit for the RSX is 50-78% stiffer in the front and 202-220% stiffer in the rear (they are adjustable) So, with such an increase in rear stiffness, i was thinking that it would over come the front stiffness and cause good rotation. So i was hopping to get the best of both worlds. Better turn in with a stiffer front bar and better rotation with the stiffer rear bar.

However, I have noticed the car has more front end grip when i set my dampers on a softer setting. (you aren't gonna like my suspension choice so dont ask )

[Highrev1]

Teins I know

Before you do sway bar try setting the fronts to softesss setting and the rear to hardest. That SHOULD allow for more rotation depending on the valving on the dampers and the alignment settings your running. I would much rather tune with springs and dampers rather than sway bars. Their like big band-aids!! :)

[Sirbelch]

Hey now, I like my Tein Flex. what are you gonna put on your car?

Anyway, the rear is at 75% and my sister was in the back the other day when i hit a dip on the freeway and she came completely off the seat and hit her head hard. it was funny.

So, next time i hit my test track, i will try that after i get an alignment after the suspension settles after i lower a teenie tiny bit more, like a 1/4 of an inch more. I had it slammed and it pushed like a dump truck so i raised it and now it looks like a 4x4 (not really but you get the point) but handles wayyyyyyy better than it did.

Do you happen to know what the stock ride hight is. I never measured it and if its at 1.5in drop then i dont want to lower it any more.

[Highrev1]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

Hey now, I like my Tein Flex. what are you gonna put on your car?
Do you happen to know what the stock ride hight is. I never measured it and if its at 1.5in drop then i dont want to lower it any more.

Already had custom Double adjustable koni's I am thinking about getting some Moton's next

I wouldn't go too low...just make sure your rear control arems are at least level---- THis /-----\ is no good dont let them get inverted same goes for the front that will be truly detrimental to handling.

You have the adjustability why not get it corner weighted? Well worth it!! If your serious about handling