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#21 (permalink) | |
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Yet another great write up, Greg. Keep up the good work. You're a real asset to this site.
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This image:
__________________
2007 Taffeta White Civic Si Coupe
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#22 (permalink) | |
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![]() Thanks Everyone. Chris we all know its you that is the expert Salad tosser :) |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Excellent thread! It is obvious that you put a LOT of time into writing this! Thank you for sharing.
You talk about alignment and that leads me to a question...On my 89 MR2 track car I tried to have a GOOD race alignment shop install some Eibach camber bolts for me. He refused saying they are not safe on the track. Do you have any experience with camber bolts (any brand) on a tracked Si? Any thoughts? I apologize sincerely for not taking the time to read your other threads, but did you advocate somewhere else that the single most important thing to make your car go fast is a good Driver's School? Again...thanks! |
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#27 (permalink) | |
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I hear Chris will do it for $59. In fact, I hear he'll do a lot of things for $59
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#29 (permalink) | |
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My driving credentials include multiple club karting championships and two California State championships, 3rd place in the Skip Barber Western Series championship even though I only competed in 6 of the 10 races due to limited funding with wins at Laguna Seca and Infineon (although it wasn't called Infineon 15 years ago). I was also a driving instructor for Speedventures with multiple class wins in my old 350Z seen below: ![]() You can just make out the padded roll bar and Schroth harness inside. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Back on topic...
For those of you who might find it strange that Greg and Chris, although they rep the same company, give different advice on set up, I refer you to the topic of this thread. In order to really give good suspension advice, it's important to know what the car is currently doing and also what is the intended purpose of the car. The set up will be much different for a stock class autocrosser (like myself), a high power track car, or just a fun daily driver. Once the intention is known, next step is diagnosis, then cure. |
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#31 (permalink) | |
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But there are a few general things that will no matter what make you handle better no? A good alignment for example, street or track, or autox, will make the car turn in better and be more controllable. Better tires would also. I run A bone stock car NOW Someone has my Konis. The only thing done is I have an alignment with some sick toe settings and a little extra camber up front. This setup in stock form allows a nice rotation even on off ramps Sometimes a little TOO much it makes commuting more like a time trial though :)
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#32 (permalink) | |
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For me, the advice Greg gives is right where I'm going. I can't play with the rear sway or springs as a stock class autocrosser, so I'm limited. As far as the shocks go, if the OTS Koni yellows are half as good as the DA "prototypes" on the rear of my car right now, I'd say they are worth the wait. Now if I can just get the fronts , I can start some diagnosis and final cure
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#33 (permalink) |
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Doublea djustable fronts....Thats a pain :) You use the screw cap from a VW or Toyota weld it onto the stock shocks shim the koni inside right.
![]() How did the D/A rears effect your car? Have you run without a front bar yet? Dual factory crash bolts don't achieve much camber TOE settings are going to be KEY. I know on my car you could MAX more toe on one side then on another it was really a pain watch for that. I wanted more but couldn't get it due to that issue.
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#34 (permalink) |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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^^How is your tire wear with all that toe? I need an alignment once i sort my suspension out so i was just wondering. I know toe will slowly shread the tires, but i wanna know how much? Just to see if i could afford replacing tires all the time.
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#35 (permalink) |
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HORRID!!! Don't set your car up this way, I am on my 4th set of tires at 27xxx I sure as hell do have fun though
I also run a staggerd setup for DD, 215's in the rear and 235's front. And I play with tire pressure daily.0 Toe all around -1.5 front -1 to-1.25 rear that would be fine. |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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Cool beans dude. I run 235 all the way around. Are you runnin a stock wheel with those sizes? I use 17x8 Motegi Tracklites. Wouldn't more rear camber increase rear grip causing the car to push more? Since the rear suspension creates negitve camber under compression, wouldn't it be wise to run rear camber near 0?
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#37 (permalink) | |
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Camber Front = -1.5 to -1.75 Camber Rear = -1 to -1.25 You want to be able to make your tires work more rather than less that is one reason, the other if you were to run any less than say 1 degree in the back it would be dangerous for 99.9999% of drivers. There are only a few who have spent time in a competitive setting that would be able to handle the car setup anymore aggressive than what is suggested. Any alignment better than stock will be benifical to a POINT. At a certain point it just gets too dangerous to drive on teh street expecially in incliment weather. |
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