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#2 (permalink) | |
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good luck |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Kill Your Self Krew
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you have to remove it because you have to install the bar. you then put it back on when your done.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Kill Your Self Krew
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people who have installed it say they feel the dif. i havent done it so i dont know.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Kill Your Self Krew
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the best think to get would be the progress rear strut bar.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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its a much improved design over the DC5 and EP3, which tried the design. the DC5 and EP would feel front heavy at max load on corners, resulting in understeer or depending on the rear sway bar to help lose traction in the rear. to which in comparrison on the FA5 and FG2 (all new civic for that matter) do not feel front heavy despite the added bracing hardware for the motor. point and shoot for a FF assisted by the LSD for traction aided by a sturdy stock suspension (Si). upon debate i guess, but would be smart get a bit up to date on chassis design and effect of rigidity based on the drive train layout. a rear bar would help. since stock cars are made to flex a bit for ride confort, the new civics only have that problem in the rear but very small. the rear end does follow the car with little flex, if any its from the roof (made soft for comfort). this flex has nothing to do with the acting suspension only the variable amounts load caused by the given working suspension setup on the chassis. save your money unless your used to playing with older civic (2000 and under), then i guess a front bar would be an obviouse mod. along with cam gears and power steering fluid... lol |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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The front strut towers are right up against the front firewall. That area is plenty strong already even for R compound rubber on a track. A strut tower bar is just rice a roni. The Honda engineered 25 hours of Thunderhill class winning coupe did not use one (no rule against it though). That should be all you need to know.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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alo i think it should be pointed out that if and when tq dampners become avail... this is another redundent mod because of the way the engine is mounted and the mounts are mounted... if that makes any sense.
to the left of the motor where the mount sits you can see where it is reinforced and where a tq dampner would sit. also compare to any other k-seires layout and it will be obviouse. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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Further more, by the time you get all the suspension mods done (spings/shocks or coilovers, sway bars, and sticker wider rubber) then you will be able to put enough force on the car in a corner to make it flex enough to where all those bars will help a litte. So spend your money on that stuff before you get all those bars. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
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True that. I had a 94 GSR and the braces made a noticable differance in how the car handled. But that was because it was 7 years old at the time. So it was the Mayor of Flexville. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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KShirza1 and everyone else who posted in this thread, I just know has not tried the front upper strut tower bar (Carbing in particular). I'm sorry, but Kshiraz1 based on your response I can tell you have no first hand experience with a strut bar on a FG Civic.
Take it from me, even though I drive a R18 Civic, the strut bar wil help a lot. Even if you already have a stiff suspension... get the bar. I too was skeptical until I installed it. Incredible turn-in response. Car has much more of a direct feeling. As for the price try to find one used like I did. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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