DIY (sort of) SPC Camber Bolts Install

[HondaScott]

Hey everybody,

I have an upcoming track day, so I figured I would get ready by introducing some negative camber into my car's front end. I'm posting this to help others like me who want more negative camber at stock ride height. This "mod" cost me $70 and is worth it's weight in gold. I did my own alignment because I'm a bad ass, but you can do as you wish.

You will need to order TWO sets (4 bolts total) of SPC camber bolts (PN: 81260). I ordered from CorSport USA and was 110% satisfied with the service. You need two bolts per side if you wish to get more then about half a degree of negative camber.

The instructions that come with the camber bolts are a little vague and misleadingly so I will try and clarify a couple of points.

1) Take camber readings and determine amount of camber change needed.

I measured no camber +/- 0.1 degree in the front. I used a digital inclinometer:



I also measured toe using 2X4's and tape measures. It seems that the car was slightly toed out.

2) Raise vehicle/remove tires.

I measured the camber of the rotor at this time. If I change the camber of the rotor in it's upper position by ~2 degrees, I should see comparable changes to the car once it's back on the ground.

3) Remove the upper strut-spindle bolt. Line up small tab with cam on bolt. Install bolt with large tab out towards wheel for positive camber or in away from wheel for negative camber. Add lock nut, snug, but do not tighten. Loosen the lower bolt.

This is the confusing step. The reason it tells you to line the small tab up with the cam is so that you can fit the bolt into the strut (it's tight). I had to loosen the lower bolt to even get it in. Once you get the bolt in (May need a BigF***ingHammer) you can line the large tab up so that it faces towards the inside of the car. Snug up the lucking nut.

Do the same basic thing for the bottom strut bolt, but this time once the bolt is in line the large tab up facing the outside of the car. Snug up the locking nut.

With both locking nuts slightly loose you can now rotate the bolts to see how they effect the camber. Make sure the large tabs stay near to there correct position, as it is the relation of this washer to the cam which does the camber correction.

4) Reinstall tire and wheel assembly and recompensate alignment equipment. Rotate EX Cam XR bolt to obtain desired camber readings. Torque bolts to 77 ft lbs.

I used my floor jack to load the lower control arm of the wheel I was working on. I then rotated the camber bolts until I saw the 2 degree camber change I was looking for. It turns out that this is pretty much the maximum compensation these bolts can provide.

Throw the car back on the ground and see how close you are. I then proceeded to repeat the steps 2-4 on the other side. With everything torqued up I took my car on a quick shake down run to let everything settle.

I had about 0.3 degrees too much negative camber in my FR so I jacked it up, and made the necessary change. Now it's time to set my toe. I found that the car was toed in considerably.This is VERY easy to do, and does not require the car to be jacked up.

To work on the FL wheel, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Lay on the ground and you can break the lock nut lose on the toe arm and make the necessary changes. Make sure you do the EXACT same changes to the other side or else you will be driving with your steering wheel cocked one way or another. After a try or two I set zero toe. It turned out to take 3/4s of a turn on each side. I then tightened the locking nuts back up and took the car for a final shake down run.

The extra camber makes a HUGE difference (even with my crappy all season tires). The car is much more neutral, and will even over steer a bit if you drive it right. I brought the car back, and checked my alignment one last time... right where I wanted it! I like to do my own alignments because then I can set the car up correctly for track use. If I know I'm going for a long drive (ie. 2500miles) I will take the car to a shop to be SURE that I'm not killing tires. Generally I am right on the money.

Let me know what you think! Here are a couple pictures:

[HondaScott]

Almost forgot, this is what my installed bolts looked like. You cannot see it, but the tab for the upper bolt is indeed facing towards the inside of the car.

[caveman74]

too much negitive will wear those crappy tires out. I have alighned my front myself. It is off just a little

[HondaScott]

Originally Posted by caveman74

too much negitive will wear those crappy tires out. I have alighned my front myself. It is off just a little

I agree, but I don't think that two degrees of camber will make any difference. There is no way my front tires would last 10 minutes on a road course with zero camber though.

[stebru84]

I just spent 30 bucks for the moron at an alignment shop to tell me i had the wrong camber bolts.

I do have the correct spc bolts, after reading your wright-up I've ordered a second set and will do it myself.

Thanks +rep

[m1k3]

what is the benefit of having negative camber up front?

sorry im a noob when it comes to track racing

[CZ-75]

Originally Posted by m1k3

what is the benefit of having negative camber up front?

sorry im a noob when it comes to track racing

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4

[Coop]

hope my install goes easy

[racerx78]

[HondaScott]