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Old 08-03-2011, 01:09 AM   #21 (permalink)
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+1 wow I thought I was actually reading honda tech and 8th gen for a second.

There's clearly other limiting factors at play here. Whats the ambient temp and what tires are you squeeling with?
Well thanks.... the funny thing is. I don't even own a Si. A friend does, and I told him I would help him out with setting up and building his car, along with helping him out with driving skills. Waiting for my corner scales to come so we can corner weight the car.
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:47 AM   #22 (permalink)
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My tires are Firestone Firehawk Oval Indy 500 225/45/17. Tire pressure usually I run 40psi front and 28/26 rear. Ambient temperature is usually 55-60. Those tires you might not be familiar with as they are relatively new from Firestone. Bridgestone owns firestone btw. If I give Dunlop SS Z1 a B+, I would give these a B- where hankook Ventus Evo v12 is a C-. I really don't think it's my tires giving me hard time honestly. I can tell my pedal went soft noticeably after. It wasn't that I completely lost my brake, but it felt like I only had about half of the brake power. Well, I will try you tip and report back. Thanks.
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:08 AM   #23 (permalink)
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My tires are Firestone Firehawk Oval Indy 500 225/45/17. Tire pressure usually I run 40psi front and 28/26 rear. Ambient temperature is usually 55-60. Those tires you might not be familiar with as they are relatively new from Firestone. Bridgestone owns firestone btw. If I give Dunlop SS Z1 a B+, I would give these a B- where hankook Ventus Evo v12 is a C-. I really don't think it's my tires giving me hard time honestly. I can tell my pedal went soft noticeably after. It wasn't that I completely lost my brake, but it felt like I only had about half of the brake power. Well, I will try you tip and report back. Thanks.
I wasn't trying to say that your tires are exactly the problem. What I am trying to say is that your driving style is making your tires lose grip. When you lose grip, you tend to brake harder, when you brake harder you force the brake system to do more work. Like I said, I am not sure how your wearing out an OEM Brembo setup. I also personally think your downgraded your tire by going with that selection. You need to understand that you have two tires doing the majority of the work. When the tires begin to lose grip, other parts of the car are then being pushed harder to deliver the results you want. If you don't know your alignment that won't help as much. But dialing in the pressures should help fine tune your setup. Picking up a cheap temp gun will help you figure out what kinda temps your pads and rotors are seeing as well as how well your contact patch of the tires you do have are behaving.
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:51 AM   #24 (permalink)
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And some hps or better to the rears too.

Im not familiar with those tires but I do run with slightly less pressure on the track.

If I finally change the lines and fluid next track session Im hoping to identify more issues with the pads/rotors. The front rotors are starting to show signs of wear... Looking to get brembo blanks when its time

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Old 08-04-2011, 07:30 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Ok here my setup:
Alignment: -1.3 front, -1.6 rear 0 toe all around.
Front brake: DC5-r Brembo caliper w/ yellowstuff pads and brembo blank
Rear brake: stock Si caliper w/ HP + pads and Powerslot

I go with my crew. ALL of us overheat our front brake, just a matter of sooner or later. These includes accord/tsx caliper w/ HP + & HPS pads, Wilwood 4 piston 12.2" w/ HPS pads, EP3, RSX-s, Prelude stock calipers w/ HPS & HP +. By the time we finish the downhill section, we can all smell the rotors. Maybe we should be looking into brake duct. We might be going tonight, I will bring my temp gun with me to see
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:02 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Were you able to get any information?
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:52 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I also went with the TSX front swap and Brembo blanks, with DTC-60 front pads (HPS rear), ATE Super Blue and Goodridge SS brake lines for track days.

Speedbleeders are handy for fluid changes and when you swap pads - little check valves in the bleeder valve so you can do it yourself without somebody else pumping the brake pedal.

Also, there's another thread around here on my attempts at brake ducts but I haven't run them on the track yet.
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:43 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I guess no updates.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:29 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Hp+ with 8-10mm left.







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Old 09-07-2011, 01:26 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Weird, I don't have this problem with
 HP+ HP+
Pads. They seem to rock just fine over a day. The fluid, however…
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Old 09-07-2011, 01:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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nice write up!
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:35 AM   #32 (permalink)
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@Yeti 000

Thats how my pads and backing plates look after trackdays, just goopy and melted. Not sure why your pistons are all rusted though, that shouldn't happen. Once I went from Axxis Ults to Carbotech XP10's it got worse with melted piston dust seals on the front.

Trying out Ti backing plates to see if that will help prevent heat transfer
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:50 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Yea, not sure why the pistons look like that either. I know they weren't bedded properly. The goop is just nasty. Won't use as much next time. I have been driving daily with hp+ in front for 6 months too. Not exciting when I creep to a halt in traffic and people look over thinking I dont take care of my car... Squeeeeeeeeeeekkkkkkk.

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Old 09-13-2011, 11:45 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Try the Axxis Ult's. same bite, temp range but no squeek even on colder days. I think they might be cheaper too
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:22 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I sprayed the shims with the blue stuff. Had to so it twice. Seems to not squeal anymore ymmv .
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Old 09-15-2011, 02:29 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Hawk HP+ should NOT be used on a road course! Ive been a Carbotech XP10 guy for a while but recently switched over to the Project Mu Club Racer pads. I feel the pmu club racer pads compete against the XP12 compound and I also noticed that they are easier on the rotors compared to the XP10 (I daily drive on the Club Racers)
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Old 09-15-2011, 02:58 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Wow excellent info here, big thanks guys. Ill definitely keep this in mind for my track car.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:13 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSALBERT View Post
Hawk HP+ should NOT be used on a road course! Ive been a Carbotech XP10 guy for a while but recently switched over to the Project Mu Club Racer pads. I feel the pmu club racer pads compete against the XP12 compound and I also noticed that they are easier on the rotors compared to the XP10 (I daily drive on the Club Racers)
This my jamhttp://www.summitpoint-raceway.com/i...id=16&Itemid=6

Road course? What do you recommend?

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Old 09-16-2011, 10:35 AM   #39 (permalink)
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@ Yetti 000

Summit Point is where I do most of my track days also, may have bumped into you there at the last event

But I find the Shenandoah circuit to be hard on the brakes because of the long straight into the u bend then hard on the brakes again, really gets those temps up.

The Main circuit isn't as bad because there is one long straight and most other areas you are light on the brakes because they are long sweeper turns, so quick tap and enter the turn.

Either way you need full track pads and good fluid. Rotors and calipers should hold up.
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:06 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Just installed some SS lines and flushed with Motul RBF 600.

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