big brake kit.

[Corpsman]

I tried to find a direct link to this but I can tell you that the Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V with Brembos actually had a longer stopping distance than the same car without the Brembo option. Although this could have been a result of the Brembos not having ABS.

[htec17]

marvie if you what the rotora's let me know

[sickyute]

which ones though?
they have 3

[htec17]

that is what they list them for



option 1:
ROTORA BIG BRAKE KIT (FRONT)
1-PIECE 330x25 - 13" OVERSIZE SLOTTED/CROSS-DRILLED DISCS
ROTORA HIGH-CERAMIC RACE PADS
STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
CARBON STEEL (SC45) MOUNTING BRACKET
6-PISTON CALIPER (RED OR METALLIC BLUE)
LIST PRICE: $1,495.00

option 2:
ROTORA BIG BRAKE KIT (FRONT)
2-PIECE SYSTEM 330X30MM (13")OVERSIZE SLOTTED/DRILLED DISCS
ROTORA HIGH-CERAMIC RACE PADS
STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
CARBON STEEL (SC45) MOUNTING BRACKET
4-PISTON CALIPER(RED OR METALLIC BLUE)
LIST PRICE: $1,995.00

option 3:
ROTORA BIG BRAKE KIT (FRONT)
2-PIECE SYSTEM 330X30MM (13")OVERSIZE SLOTTED/DRILLED DISCS
ROTORA HIGH-CERAMIC RACE PADS
STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
CARBON STEEL (SC45) MOUNTING BRACKET
FORGED 4-PISTON CALIPER(RED OR METALLIC BLUE)
LIST PRICE: $2,295.00

[blaznhot_23]

can a group buy be an option for the rotoras???....htec???

[sickyute]

u can't ask htec for a group buy ...
he's a member on here but not allowed to do that sought of stuff.

the last kit for 2000+ is 6 piston though.

[blaznhot_23]

my bad...i thought he had a hook up or something...he should become a site sponsor....hahhaha

[cappykd]

I've never used Willwood before but below is a comment from an acura tl forum regarding brembo brake upgrades... Food for thought...

"05-30-2005, 11:15 PM
i thought the 6MT brembos were 4 piston, no?

hmm.. i've been lied to... i want out of my TL!!

they are 4 piston. i would not recommend the wilwood as they are probably the worse aftermarket brakes you can get(that is why they are so cheap). alot of people refer to them as wetwood cause they basically provide no real performance of a BBK.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"

[sickyute]

decided to go with a rotora kit ...
i'll keep the board posted ... in the mean time let the discussion continue.

[blaznhot_23]

he might have had a bad experience. its like saying you had a bad experience w/ your si...and then making a conclusion that all si's are bad because of that incident. From my past experiences...wilwood is just as good as some of the bigger names out there. as i mentioned in a earlier post i used a set on a 69 C10...a 3 ton truck on 22/24 inch staggered wheels. No hiccups what so ever w/ the install and braking performance was dead on...by the way it was a complete kit. I would go with them based on my past experience. just my .02$

[blaznhot_23]

Originally Posted by sickyute

decided to go with a rotora kit ...
i'll keep the board posted ... in the mean time let the discussion continue.

complete kit??? or just fronts?

[sickyute]

just fronts ...
doing it that way first ...
i'll see how that goes and how it feels...
if need be i'll do the rear.

[cappykd]

More related info.

Just food for thought not gospel.

"Anyone out there had recently bought any drilled rotors for their 6sp?? I looked everywhere and nothing, what going on??
drilled rotors are for cosmetic purposes only:

just to quote another member's (dcarlinf1) comments:

Separating fact from fiction



I and many of my autocrossing and road racing friends have been trying to separate the marketing hype from the product and explain the existence of Eradispeeds or any cross drilled and/or slotted brake rotors. Mostly, there seems to be a misunderstanding of the reasons for drilling holes in a perfectly good rotor. Cross drilled rotors have somehow become the "magical cure" for your brakes. Many would like you to believe that they will help you stop faster, they will wear better, stay cooler, and they can magically avoid warping. Unfortunately all of these things are false. But, since the guys who make these products spend more on advertising than I do (ok, I don't), it is easy to fall into that trap.



Broken down to the most basic physics (don't worry, no serious math involved here). You will begin to see the reasons they can't do the things they are touted to do.



The "basic" lesson:

Ok. If I am trying to boil a pot of water with 2 gallons of water in it. It will take a lot of heat to get all of that water up to boiling temperature. Right? Now, if I remove 1/2 the water and with it, 1/2 the mass used to absorb heat, it will now be easier to get that water to boil since there is less mass to absorb heat. Make sense?

Ok, If I take a 3 lb chunk of metal and a 6 lb chunk of metal and set them both over a small torch, which one do you think will heat up first? The lighter mass will see a more rapid temperature rise (it will get hotter, quicker). Correct?

Now, if I take a brake rotor that weighs 20 lbs and begin making "panic stops" with it, it's temperature will increase. Easy enough.

If I now take the same rotor, drill holes in it reducing its weight to 17 lbs and make the same "panic stops", would it not make sense (from the above examples) that the lighter rotor will end that stop with a higher temperature? Less mass to absorb heat will cause a more rapid temperature rise.

Many will say "cross drilled rotors cool better". Hmmm. If you really look at it, how much air do you think can blow through those little holes? Add the fact that they are spinning at a reasonably high speed and the cooling argument becomes even less believable. In fact, the holes could, in theory, disrupt the natural draw of air from the center of the rotor to the outside edge. That is the flow that actually cools the rotors.

The reason:

Rotors were originally drilled to eliminate something known as "green fade". The best way to explain "Green fade" is to relate it to an air hockey table. The puck is suspended on a cushion of air that prevents it from touching the table, this reduces the friction between the puck and the table.

A long time ago, pads were made with the best resins we had available. Many of those resins would produce gas as they cured. When a pad was used the first few times, the heat would "cure" the resin which would cause it to produce vapors. This was known as "out gassing". The vapors would build up between the pad and the rotor and lift or "force" the pad away from the rotor (like the puck in air hockey). This caused the brakes to be very ineffective, even though they were not yet at the maximum rated operating temperature. The holes were drilled to allow that gas a place to escape. So, it is correct to say that rotors were cross drilled to eliminate fade, but not for the reasons you would think. The good news is that today's resins no longer suffer from these problem and the modern race pads are so good that this is really no longer an issue. So, by cross drilling rotors, you will only manage to shorten the lifespan of that rotor (it now has less surface area to wear against the brake pad and will wear more quickly as well as a reduction in weight that will cause the brakes to operate at a higher temperature).

Another problem with cross drilled rotors is the potential for cracking around the holes. The holes become a stress point in the cast iron that can more readily allow cracks to form in the rotor surface. This requires that you pay close attention to the rotor surface for signs of cracking. Some small cracks, known as "surface checking" are acceptable, but anything that resembles a crack would be a reason to replace that rotor. When looking at slotted rotors keep in mind that the slots should not be milled off of the edge of the rotor. This is a great place for cracks to form, and they will. The slot should be ball milled in the rotor face and originate and terminate on the surface of the rotor without exiting the rotors edge. The goal is to eliminate sharp edges that cause stress risers on the rotor surface. This will reduce the possibility of cracking. If you see slotted rotors with slots that are milled off the edge of the rotor, shop for another brand. Slots that are not cut through the edge of the rotor are a good sign that the manufacturer of that rotor knows what they are doing. This is a good indicator of parts made by a brake company and not a machine shop that happens to drill and slot rotors.

Many years ago, when I ordered my first brake kit from Baer Racing, they told me that drilled rotors would typically last 20% less than an equivalent solid rotor. This was why they always recommended solid rotors for extreme use. Baer has changed their stance on this since discovering there was a large amount of money to be made selling "Eradispeeds" (they are very pretty brake rotors). This change in their marketing strategy has caused me to feel that they have gone from "supporting the racing community" to "making maximum money". And, I guess I can't blame them....."

[cappykd]

Originally Posted by blaznhot_23

he might have had a bad experience. its like saying you had a bad experience w/ your si...and then making a conclusion that all si's are bad because of that incident. From my past experiences...wilwood is just as good as some of the bigger names out there. as i mentioned in a earlier post i used a set on a 69 C10...a 3 ton truck on 22/24 inch staggered wheels. No hiccups what so ever w/ the install and braking performance was dead on...by the way it was a complete kit. I would go with them based on my past experience. just my .02$

As I stated I have no experience with willwood. I know they made a lot of conversion brakes for muscle cars a few years back.

[cappykd]

Originally Posted by sickyute

decided to go with a rotora kit ...
i'll keep the board posted ... in the mean time let the discussion continue.

I'm anxious to hear how it works out.

[blaznhot_23]

Originally Posted by sickyute

just fronts ...
doing it that way first ...
i'll see how that goes and how it feels...
if need be i'll do the rear.

which kit did you go with???

[sickyute]

his theory didn't really prove his point ...
but his whole post picked him up ...

there's too many factors left out here ...
the larger surface area...
the amount of air flowing
the surface area drilled out
speeds to stop
stock vs aftermarket heat tests and so on...

i understand the issue here is slotted/drilled vs solid ... so i see his points give all things equal...

but stock vs larger and so on... is another interest...

great find btw....

[sickyute]

Originally Posted by blaznhot_23

which kit did you go with???

didn't get it yet...
but not the last one for sure ... it's overkill
it will be one of the first 2.

[blaznhot_23]

yup...6 pistons is a tad too much

[skittleslegend]

Originally Posted by CZ-75

If you read Stoptech's product literature, you'll see they are well aware about bias issues and design their systems to move bias TOWARD the rear by slightly decreasing front brake torque, despite the increased mechanical advantage of larger rotors. They do this via adjusting the piston sizes of their calipers to exert less force for the same brake line input. Their intent is to give the driver better feel and wear characteristics inherent in a multi-piston caliper with the increased thermal mass of the larger rotors, not to have front brakes so powerful they'll stand the car on its nose.

A few years back, Car and Driver tested front BBKs on a WRX and found that most actually offer a bit of improvement in stopping distance over even stock brakes with high friction pads and all offered better fade resistance. Stoptech was among the best and were the cheapest option.

This I know, because StopTech was the manufacturer used in the article. But the manufacturers talked about here are Rotora and Brembo. There are manufacturers out there that actually R&D each vehicle and are cheaper. StopTech is one of them. I was making a comment more for food for thought then anything. There are a lot of people who incorrectly assume BBK automatically = better braking. I'd rather people stop short than get the wrong information and stop too long.