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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Need honest advice on lowering springs
For about 2 months I have been researching about lowering springs. I wanted some advice from owners that have used lowering springs, or coilovers. I have been looking into buying a set of skunk2 lowering spring and putting them on my stock struts. Than later on upgrade the struts, since I have heard that stocks hold up for a couple years.
Now my questions is it a waste? I have read on forums that some say its all looks, and doesnt really help handling. While others have said since it sets the center of gravity lower to the ground you have less body roll. I also live in Pa where there is a good amount of pot holes and we do get some snow during winter time. I just would like to close the wheel gap and upgrade to some 18s with good tires. And have slightly better handling. I dont track my car just use it for every day driving. What seems like the best lowering spring? As far as suspension and looks? Just would like help on making a decision on others who know more and have had good or bad experience. Thanks |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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A lot depends on road conditions and driving styles as to how long the stuts will last. They will slowly fail with time so for many people it's hard to determine if they are really gone until the start feeling the effects for awhile.
I know it's hard to do but I would recommend waiting until you have a complete setup (ie aftermarket springs and matching shocks or coilovers) rather than trying to skate by with lowering springs. This way, everything wears evenly and you only have to get into the suspension for install once. If you want to close the wheel gap with 18's, the HFP suspension seems to be a good choice. 17's with the HFP isn't low enough for most but with 18's, the wheel gap almost dissapears. Plus, the suspension is from Honda and is cheaper and will last longer and will handle better than most spring/strut setups. Good luck. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Cause if I do get spring and struts I dont know whats the best combination |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I've had my Eibach sportlines for about a year now. They are ok for daily driving for the first few months but afterward I regretted not getting the whole suspension. Daily driving can be rough, especially harsh and bumpy roads. Like others have mentioned, its a good idea to get a complete setup.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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My honest advice can be found in my suspension thread: Comparison: Stock Suspension vs. HFP Suspension vs. KONI/ Swift Springs Suspension
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#8 (permalink) |
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VIP Member
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lowering springs do just that..lower the car..they are not made for better/same performance compared to stock.
I would get springs and shocks together.
__________________
P2R TBS/TBGs / Fujita SRI / Skunk2 10th Anv. Knob/Radiator Cap / TWM SS / Cable/Base Bushings / JDM Dipstick / Auger Boot / StrutKing DP Cover / HFP Front Lip / Cleared Head/Tails / My Car Build Thread - Amilia
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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There will be a good amount of grease seeping out of them..
The struts went out on my old saturn and they knocked really bad when I hit bumps, the car was really sloshy and bouncy (not that it was much different when I replaced them... my saturn was crap). |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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When the dampers no longer control spring oscillations.
-Bouncy, more than the typical single compression, rebound, rest sequence. -Oil in the wheel wells. -Annoying rattle over every bump, usually means the internal valving stack for the damper has exceeded its useful life. One or more of those are signs. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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lowering spring does provide some sort of performance improvement, it's not fair to compare a full setup...if lowering spring is waste of money, then why those company still manufacture lowering spring.
as lowering spring will lower your centre gravity, your car will have less body roll... if you don't track your car, or only use it for DD and mainly want to lower the wheel gap, then you can go for the spring first and if the shocks blow out, replace them even you get spring/shock combo, that doesn't mean the handling will be totally diff (because you only use it for DD), you won't even feel the real difference and yes, some people did mention the lasting of the shocks depends on your driving style if you don't track your car, your shock should last much longer I had Eibach sportline with stock shocks with my previous EK3 Civic for 2 years, and nothing wrong with it And then I changed to Tokico with H&R race spring, not a good choice, shock blown in a year I also had experience with RSR lowering spring with stock shocks with my EK4 But I had Tein coilover for my current Civic, since i want to have height adjustability..... Last edited by Ronnn; 07-06-2009 at 03:32 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
![]() Read my review of the Tokico HTS510 kit. Your best bang for the buck is full HFP setup. Unless you track or auto-x you can not compare the difference in performance. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
HFP still has areas to be desired, but for the price and being designed and produced by Honda is definately a plus over stock suspension. Another option to Tokico HTS is KONI Sport dampers. HFP springs mated to KONI rebound adjustable dampers could give the driver more control over how the vehicle behaves on the track as well. Both have pros and cons. I required the damper to be at least rebound force adjustable, rebuildable and a company that offers custom valving services and KONI provides that for me. As stated, full HFP is best bang for the buck. I had it for 35K miles and really enjoyed it, I just required further damper adjustment, especially in rebound forces, for my driving style. A full race (consumer affordable) suspension for me would consist of: -Redshift KONI D/A Height Adjustable coilovers (D/A meaning Double Adjustable; you adjust rebound and compression forces separately.) -Eibach or Swift Racing coilover springs choosing my own spring rates. If I tracked my car I would easily jump on that 2.5K suspension! Or just for the hell of it purchase it for my daily driver and order a set of higher rate springs and change out for race day. ![]() Most like a simple DD set up though that reduces wheel gap and handles the street better than stock. Again, can't go wrong with full HFP if you don't mind some wheel gap. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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XT, I agree 100%
I was refering to some one else stating that the Prokit has no body roll. That is me driving the NHBP sedan. The car had plenty of roll , more than stock and I did not feel there was an improvement in performance. It does have a nice drop, if that is what you are after. The ride on the street is smoother. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Oh definately, the Eibach Prokit does not eliminate body roll, nor does my current suspension or HFP for that matter. Even my current suspension has areas to be desired, but I had to make the call on practicality and performance for a DD. Sacrifices were made.
Also, Progressive and Linear rate springs will react differently. Wish I had the time to track my car, well, maybe I would if it weren't my DD, but that is my preference. Last edited by Xtreme Thunder; 07-06-2009 at 09:47 PM. |
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