Ksport Camber Plates!?!?

[HondaScott]

Hi All,

I have been in desperate need of camber plates as my car chews up front sidewalls at track events.

Does anybody have any experience with these: Ksport Pillowball Upper Mount - Standard - THMotorsports - Lowest Price Parts HKS Exhaust Apexi World Sport Koni Seibon Carbon Fiber ACT Exedy Clutch Skunk2?

I did not want to shell out the ridiculous $$$ for the k-mac plates. Have my prayers been answered?

Scott

[Asif22]

I think you need the ksport coils first...you got em?

[travis_si]

Ksport pillowball upper mounts are designed for the Ksport coilover system and improve responsiveness for any application. These mounts replace the stock rubber or plastic mounts to reduce flex and improve performance. The angle of the contact patch of the tire is changed improving handling when installed on the coilover. Camber can be adjusted by the pillowball top mount on McPherson applications only saving you time and money.

hope you have the coils.

[HondaScott]

I do not have the coilovers, and would prefer to keep the stock struts mostly for financial reasons.

Does anybody have camber plates?

[Huckleberry]

you need camber bolts, sir.

spc.

[HondaScott]

Originally Posted by Huckleberry

you need camber bolts, sir.

spc.

I have two camber bolts on each side, and am only able to achieve just shy of 2deg negative camber.

[Huckleberry]

you can add an additional set on there to achieve up to -4.

[trickyazn]

lol -4 wtf?

[2point]

Originally Posted by trickyazn

lol -4 wtf?

lol

I have one set of ingals and one set of SPC. One on each side. don't ask why

I have gotten -2.5 camber from them.

I don't have a good picture of it, but if you look closely at the top of the knuckle area which bolts to the strut you may find that the cast knuckle might be in contact with the strut. it was in my case. Unbolt the knuckle, file/grind this area down and re-bolt everything up. You should be able to pull that last -2.5 deg of camber out.

Remember, Top bolt has the lobe facing inward, the small tab out
bottom hole = lobe face outward and small tab in.
Small tab = the tab on the "inside" of the washer. holds the strut in place

I noticed that my SPC bolts were not properly marked on the cap end which can throw you off as well. Take the bolts out and mark the head of the bolt precisely where the lobe is at it's peak. hammer time!

[2point]

Although I think -2.5 camber is enough to get by on, I do think -3 is ideal for track for our weight of car, especially on tires with soft sidewalls.

Please be the first to try and miss-match a set of camber plates. The only thing you will be doing is raising the vehicle but if you use lowering springs, you can bring that back down. You will have Extra droop travel as well. Using the camber plates at full NEGATIVE camber and using a eccentric bolt (SPC/Ingals) to dial out camber will actually give you greater wheel to shock clearance for larger rims & tires!! 17x9s with 255s hehe!

-- Buy lowering springs that lower at least 2" Try and find ones with machined flat tops. (read bellow for why)
-- buy the camber plates
-- Buy a set of the following but measure your shock rod diameter first.
Pegasus - Thick Nadella Thrust Washer - 2mm thick
Pegasus - Thin Nadella Thrust Washer - .8mm thick

-- the most difficult part of this is fullfilling the NEED of the needle bearing thrust washers which says they need TWO flat surfaces to mount in between. OEM like springs usually don't offer this which represents a problem and could/will sacrifice ride quality and integrity of the brearings.

GL

[Huckleberry]

Originally Posted by trickyazn

lol -4 wtf?

do negative 5 all around.