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Old 12-12-2008, 12:02 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Yes, can/should be done. Custom make a hard bushing to replace the rubber.
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:40 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Oh man are those the people from unique whips? I can't stand them! All they ever do is put rims and stereos in cars...Once they put ugly rims and yellow tint on a lambo! They will probably take out your camber arms and install some woofers...then a woofer temp. gauge on the a pillar for when you are "woofing" at like 37 PSI
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Old 12-12-2008, 08:35 AM   #43 (permalink)
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skunk2's work good. just get camber kits. this shop is retarded, i know other shops like this.
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:10 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moose View Post
Or you just replace the Rubber Bushing material in the Aftermarket Arm with Delrin or similar material ...

Moose
speaking of which .. i saw mine last night. Just waiting on the insert

And Solo - you know you and moose would work on race cars/ your cars all year round if you weren't in canada
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:36 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Corsport sells a rear camber bracket and bushing set.

CorSport Online Store: SPC Performance - 67465

So let me get this straight someone here said you need a camber kit no matter what kind of drop you do... I know of plenty of HFP Suspension guys (1 inch drop all around), with NO CAMBER KITS, they just go get their car aligned to stock specs.
Couldn't you just do this with Tein S-techs? Get a stock alignment.

Edit: Obviously if you want to handle better you don't get a stock alignment, but this is just to answer the OP's question.

Last edited by APupNamedSmokey; 12-12-2008 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:01 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APupNamedSmokey View Post
Corsport sells a rear camber bracket and bushing set.

CorSport Online Store: SPC Performance - 67465

So let me get this straight someone here said you need a camber kit no matter what kind of drop you do... I know of plenty of HFP Suspension guys (1 inch drop all around), with NO CAMBER KITS, they just go get their car aligned to stock specs.
Couldn't you just do this with Tein S-techs? Get a stock alignment.

Edit: Obviously if you want to handle better you don't get a stock alignment, but this is just to answer the OP's question.
Camber is not adjustable without a kit...

They're just saying that you can't fix the camber without one, I know that for me a 1" drop would probably give me about the amount of neg camber I would want! (Though I would still get a kit in case I wanted more)
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:34 PM   #47 (permalink)
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^Oh ok
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:11 PM   #48 (permalink)
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funny story about the spying on his wife lol
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Old 12-14-2008, 01:02 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Whocares05050 View Post
Ive been using TEIN S-Techs for over a year now and hondas had my car in +1 camber all around with no issues what so ever. No camber kits or anything. No shims either.
there might be some truth 2 this because my cousin who works@ a auto shop told me if i got teins i wouldnt need a camber kit because those springs were thicker. however he did mention alignment though. so is there any truth 2 this?
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:07 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by G-Ray View Post
there might be some truth 2 this because my cousin who works@ a auto shop told me if i got teins i wouldnt need a camber kit because those springs were thicker. however he did mention alignment though. so is there any truth 2 this?
Spring thickness has no direct effect on if a camber kit is required, only the AMOUNT of lowering effects this.

AS SOON as you lower a car you do two things to the suspension

-Gain (add) negative camber, with the rear gaining more relative to the front

-When camber changes ....SO DOES Toe.

Toe Distroys tires ... So YES you need an alignment to correct toe at the very least WHEN you raise or Lower a car ... PERIOD ... A $40 alignmnet is cheaper than 2-4 new tires.

If you want to correct / change the camber, then you need Camber kits.

Lots of rear camber and not much front makes hte car understeer like a pig.

So if you want you car to handle nicely, you need to ADD camber up front, and reduce the camber out back.


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Old 12-14-2008, 07:22 PM   #51 (permalink)
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It handle's much nicer with camber all the way around. i went -1 degree all the way around.
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Old 12-15-2008, 07:38 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Supermoto292 View Post
It handle's much nicer with camber all the way around. i went -1 degree all the way around.
it will handle alot better if you doubled the amount of front camber then the amount you have in the rear
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:12 AM   #53 (permalink)
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This is the best thread ever. The guy joins 8thcivic. As one of his first posts, he says that camber kits are a waste of money.

Thanks for the good laugh man.
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:21 AM   #54 (permalink)
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yee what an idiot!
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:41 AM   #55 (permalink)
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i just did an alignment after i got Comptech Springs and i was just fine.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:53 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JEA86 View Post
i just did an alignment after i got Comptech Springs and i was just fine.
Yes but you know (as has been stated over and over in this and many other threads) that you can't adjust camber without a camber kit so if you have lowered your car your camber is no longer in spec and no alignment can change that... I'm not saying that you specifically need one since some people get them to go back to stock specs and I myself would get one to add more camber, I just wanted to let you know.

Getting the alignment was a good idea though, because more often than not it's the toe settings (ater a drop) that are out of whack that destroy tires...
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:17 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEA86 View Post
i just did an alignment after i got Comptech Springs and i was just fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo2EG View Post
Yes but you know (as has been stated over and over in this and many other threads) that you can't adjust camber without a camber kit so if you have lowered your car your camber is no longer in spec and no alignment can change that... I'm not saying that you specifically need one since some people get them to go back to stock specs and I myself would get one to add more camber, I just wanted to let you know.

Getting the alignment was a good idea though, because more often than not it's the toe settings (ater a drop) that are out of whack that destroy tires...
Agreed. Toe is the major problem.

Where did you get the car aligned..? If you take it to a no-name shop or honda they will just put it within factory specs, which allow toe and wandering camber.

Having an alignment done, and having it done properly are two different things.

You should specifiy you want 0 toe front and rear.. or they will just leave it around factory specs.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:25 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jrotax101 View Post
Agreed. Toe is the major problem.

Where did you get the car aligned..? If you take it to a no-name shop or honda they will just put it within factory specs, which allow toe and wandering camber.

Having an alignment done, and having it done properly are two different things.

You should specifiy you want 0 toe front and rear.. or they will just leave it around factory specs.
i got my alignment done and they brought everything back into factory specs.

I had SPC camber kits front and rear on my 07 Si and that Junk changed constantly. Every time i brought it in for another alignment it was completely off. I have a Friend that is a Really good Honda tech and he set the settings for me
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:36 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEA86 View Post
i got my alignment done and they brought everything back into factory specs.
Like i said above.. factory specs are not the best.

The factory specs are as follows. ( taken from highrev's post)
Camber
Front
0 º 00 '±30 '
Rear
-1 º 30 '+1 º 05 '-0 º 45 '
Caster
Front
7 º 00 '±1 º
Total toe-in
Front
0±2 mm (0±0.08 in.)
Rear
2+2-1 mm (0.08+0.08-0.04 in.)

They will cause tire wear..
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:51 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jrotax101 View Post
Like i said above.. factory specs are not the best.

The factory specs are as follows. ( taken from highrev's post)
Camber
Front
0 º 00 '±30 '
Rear
-1 º 30 '+1 º 05 '-0 º 45 '
Caster
Front
7 º 00 '±1 º
Total toe-in
Front
0±2 mm (0±0.08 in.)
Rear
2+2-1 mm (0.08+0.08-0.04 in.)

They will cause tire wear..
i agree 100% that they are not the best But my experience with Adjustable Camber arms was highly detestable. I was very aggitated that every time i went back in to get the alignment checked (6 month warranty) it would be right back out of wack and not by a little bit but by alot. So i decided get a spring that has a very low drop rate (ct-engineering) and just keep the factory camber arms. The toe in the Front is at 0 and the rear does allow for some Toe But i am going to get that fixed very soon cause i realize it eats tires. But after the drop on the comptech springs. the back fell down at -1.12 on the left and -1.14 on the right the front fell to a -.48 on the front left and -.52 on the front right so I may go with a camber kit up front to get those back to 0 (i know a -1 would be better but i want to keep my tires) What would you all completely suggest?

Just leave it alone at those settings and get the toe 0 out on all 4 corners or would you suggest getting another brand camber arm for the rear?

Me personally i thought the car feel nicely with the negative camber and the settings have been consistant
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