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Old 12-09-2008, 01:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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longer bolts, shims/washers....CAN be done. but, made for retards who'll never understand how camber works nor cares to know. the truth hurts.

again, ghetto as hell
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:04 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Arachnid View Post
longer bolts, shims/washers....CAN be done. but, made for retards who'll never understand how camber works nor cares to know. the truth hurts.

again, ghetto as hell
.. and neither were any of those used on my car.
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:13 AM   #23 (permalink)
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to interject Unique Auto sports wouldnt know a control arm from a broken arm. . . those guys are full of S*IT. . . if you pay attention to the show they always call outside people in for anything other than stereo equip or wheels and tires, there is even an episode where they call in "specialists" to install an aftermarket hood on an escalade and the owner guys comes out and asked them how long a hood install takes and they told him something like 45 min (im sure so they'd get paid for 45 min on something that should take 15 max
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:43 AM   #24 (permalink)
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you need a camber kit...even with .5 of an inch drop your settings are out of whack for good handling...im not talking about tire wear...nething more then -1 degree camber in our nose heavy cars will not help us rotate at all!
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Old 12-09-2008, 02:17 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whocares05050 View Post
Ive been using TEIN S-Techs for over a year now and hondas had my car in +1 camber all around with no issues what so ever. No camber kits or anything. No shims either.
+1 Camber? Not only is that horrible for handling but you'll get somewhat bad outer tire wear just driving normally and straight, and like 10x more if you take some corners somewhat hard regularly.
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Old 12-09-2008, 02:30 AM   #26 (permalink)
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lol no honda car from factory has ever had positive camber...im thinking hard if any car ever made comes with +1 camber from factory
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Old 12-10-2008, 01:36 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Well Im planning to get lowering springs too but i dont know if i really need one but i dont want any tire ware or anything. What should i do??
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:20 AM   #28 (permalink)
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HAHAHAHA that's ridiculous
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:01 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Solo2EG View Post
Unless he's cutting slots or bending metal (which I wouldn't want done to my car) I call

The front is adjusted with crash bolts (very cheap) and the rear is adjusted with adjustable upper control arm cams. Not really a lot of other options.


What Solo2EG says is totally correct ... there is NO FACTORY Camber adjustment .... ONLY Toe.

The ONLY way to adjust Camber up front on the OE struts is with $20 crash bolts.
In the Rear to create ANY sort of noticible camber change you need an adjustable arm, washers will not cut it.


I would RUN AWAY from any "professional" shop that claims this sort of BS ... because "fixing" camber any other way is NOT profesional.


Keep something in mind here ...Solo2Eg WORKS for Honda (Engineer) , and is a Mechanic for one of the Factory back race-teams ... I would say that he is a better source of info on Honda's than most on this board.

Moose

Last edited by Moose; 12-10-2008 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:09 AM   #30 (permalink)
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.....one of the most knowledgeable suspension guys quoting another suspension expert...the OP really should listen to them.
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:28 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:45 AM   #32 (permalink)
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.....one of the most knowledgeable suspension guys quoting another suspension expert...the OP really should listen to them.
owned
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:14 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Moose View Post
Keep something in mind here ...Solo2Eg WORKS for Honda (Engineer) , and is a Mechanic for one of the Factory back race-teams ... I would say that he is a better source of info on Honda's than most on this board.

Moose
Yeah, and Moose knows a lot more about this stuff than I do... I just work on race cars (in my spare time) all summer... wait, so does he!
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:23 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Yea I trust you guys... thanks!
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:27 PM   #35 (permalink)
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yes rear camber kit is a must if you want to correct the really neagative camber when you lower it, speaking from experience and a set of new tires after 8 months. SPC for me and never had any problems after that.
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:36 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Do I really need a camber kit? Seriously though DO I?
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:48 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by paolo2k2 View Post
lol no honda car from factory has ever had positive camber...im thinking hard if any car ever made comes with +1 camber from factory
The old reduction gear volkswagen bus were a trip, when you smash on the gas their assends don't squat like the rest of RR cars do. No the tail ends go up and because they are swing axles you'll briefly have positive camber.
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:02 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Terrible problems

i had terrible problems with aftermkt rear kits in TSX.

The honda links have serious bushings, these are like 90% metal
with a rubber insulation.

The fat rubber bushings in aft mkt arms squeezed out and displaced.

After and alignment, it would last a couple weeks and back to -2.5
camber.

On these cars, when the rear camber changes, toe changes and
tears up the tires in a hurry. After several temporary alingments I
just measured some wheel dimensions to the body work right after an
alignment and started making my adjustments weekly myself. Camber
is easy and accurate with machinist scale and long contractor level, but
any camber adj moves the toe and you a need reference to measure.

And I dont trust alingment racks. They dont benchmark off the correct
chassis references anyway.

Then to the SPC top camber arm, that was better longer but ended
doing the same thing.

The way I would like to do it, cut out the center of an ingals kit,
and weld on round ends, pressing stock bushings into those ends.
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:31 PM   #39 (permalink)
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^^^ im wondering about this...i have the spc arms and do people who have it have bushing problems? as in alignment going out of wack after a while?
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:45 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gg06lxsdn View Post
i had terrible problems with aftermkt rear kits in TSX.

The honda links have serious bushings, these are like 90% metal
with a rubber insulation.

The fat rubber bushings in aft mkt arms squeezed out and displaced.

After and alignment, it would last a couple weeks and back to -2.5
camber.

On these cars, when the rear camber changes, toe changes and
tears up the tires in a hurry. After several temporary alingments I
just measured some wheel dimensions to the body work right after an
alignment and started making my adjustments weekly myself. Camber
is easy and accurate with machinist scale and long contractor level, but
any camber adj moves the toe and you a need reference to measure.

And I dont trust alingment racks. They dont benchmark off the correct
chassis references anyway.

Then to the SPC top camber arm, that was better longer but ended
doing the same thing.

The way I would like to do it, cut out the center of an ingals kit,
and weld on round ends, pressing stock bushings into those ends.
Or you just replace the Rubber Bushing material in the Aftermarket Arm with Delrin or similar material ...

Moose
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