New photographer - first shots

[Izzy]

1. If the car would have been in focus and with an f-stop of about 3.2~4.5 to blur out the background, it would have been somewhat saved. I'd think it the car was slightly closer to the curb, and tighten down the zoom (which would, in turn, increase DOF), it would look decent.

2. I don't really like this one. Car's smack dab in the middle. Plus the sun is getting in the way, overexposing part of the car. It's generally better to take those shots at high sun.

3. Generally the same as #2. It does look better closer in, as there's no distractions.

4. This would have been fairly cool, if you either straighted out the lower bumper of the car, or straightened out the buildings. I would opt for the car, myself. Instead of the fence, I'd move the camera to point more to the left, so the buildings are the main background instead.

5/6. Instead of traditionally being horizontal, this would have looked good if you did it vertical, with only the tree and the sky (and consequently, part of the building). The sign is distracting at this point.

7. Move the frame, as the light is reflecting (badly) unto your picture. If you don't want to use a flash, use a lamp closer to the subjects but away from reflecting on the frame.

8. Putting on a table (even better, a countertop) would make it more interesting. The flash is harsh, but you're using the stock flash, so I can't say anything else about it.

[projek7]

You gotta work on the focus a bit more, Pictures# 1 & 4 are focusing on the wooden fence and the car is oof. Also for your low lighting shots do you have a tripod? It'll greatly improve your low lighting shots with a tripod + remote(to reduce vibration from pushing down on the shutter).

Tip: Try focus locking to avoid focus on the wrong object
Using Focus Lock on Your Autofocus Camera - For Dummies

[Izzy]

Originally Posted by projek7

You gotta work on the focus a bit more, Pictures# 1 & 4 are focusing on the wooden fence and the car is oof. Also for your low lighting shots do you have a tripod? It'll greatly improve your low lighting shots with a tripod + remote(to reduce vibration from pushing down on the shutter).

Tip: Try focus locking to avoid focus on the wrong object
Using Focus Lock on Your Autofocus Camera - For Dummies

If you don't have a remote, just set your camera to mirror lock-up and put it on the timer setting. This will make your mirror first move up, stay up for a bit to reduce shake, then open and close the shutter.

Timer makes it more shake-free because you have more than enough time to take your hand off the camera button.

[Phalanx]

Originally Posted by Izzy

1. If the car would have been in focus and with an f-stop of about 3.2~4.5 to blur out the background, it would have been somewhat saved. I'd think it the car was slightly closer to the curb, and tighten down the zoom (which would, in turn, increase DOF), it would look decent.
I need to re-read my manual and figure out this f-stop thing. I cant seem to figure out how to change this. tighten down the zoom = zoom out or zoom in? for more depth of field wouldnt I have to step father back from the picture?

2. I don't really like this one. Car's smack dab in the middle. Plus the sun is getting in the way, overexposing part of the car. It's generally better to take those shots at high sun.
Dually (sp?) noted

3. Generally the same as #2. It does look better closer in, as there's no distractions.

4. This would have been fairly cool, if you either straighted out the lower bumper of the car, or straightened out the buildings. I would opt for the car, myself. Instead of the fence, I'd move the camera to point more to the left, so the buildings are the main background instead.
Agreed, the fact that things are crooked really annoys me about this picture. I was in a rush taking these b/c I had to get back to the office for a meeting.... and I know that rushing photos almost never works out to your advantage.

5/6. Instead of traditionally being horizontal, this would have looked good if you did it vertical, with only the tree and the sky (and consequently, part of the building). The sign is distracting at this point.
touche... do from farther back, with many focal points... try vertical.

7. Move the frame, as the light is reflecting (badly) unto your picture. If you don't want to use a flash, use a lamp closer to the subjects but away from reflecting on the frame.
Didnt wanna use flash b/c i was in the office and shouldve been doing work.

8. Putting on a table (even better, a countertop) would make it more interesting. The flash is harsh, but you're using the stock flash, so I can't say anything else about it.
Yea, im workin w/ the stock flash and lens (18-55mm) for now

Originally Posted by projek7

You gotta work on the focus a bit more, Pictures# 1 & 4 are focusing on the wooden fence and the car is oof. Also for your low lighting shots do you have a tripod? It'll greatly improve your low lighting shots with a tripod + remote(to reduce vibration from pushing down on the shutter).

Tip: Try focus locking to avoid focus on the wrong object
Using Focus Lock on Your Autofocus Camera - For Dummies

I tried to focus on the car in each picture, but it does seem as if my slight shake (from pressing the button) is throwing the pictures off-focus. I do have a tripod, but not with me.

Originally Posted by Izzy

If you don't have a remote, just set your camera to mirror lock-up and put it on the timer setting. This will make your mirror first move up, stay up for a bit to reduce shake, then open and close the shutter.

Timer makes it more shake-free because you have more than enough time to take your hand off the camera button.

... timer wouldve been a great idea.

How can i prevent blurry pictures w/out using the timer though? Like if say im trying to take a rolling shot in the car or something?

[GETxERxDONE]

before you snap the shot take a deep breath and hold it, then take the pic (think like a sniper). timers work good, i used that trick a few times but i thought of it myself..then found out everyone knows about it lol. but now i have the IR wireless remote :)

but about the pics..i cant really crit. them that much, but i would have chosen different angles. either gotton the whole building in it, or none at all

[Izzy]

I'm not sure how to set aperture on the XTi, actually, but with a traditional zoom, you generally get better DOF when you zoom in because of how the lens' glass works. DOF gets deeper as your subject is further from you because it starts to focus at "infinity". Background will be far, but your car is also relatively far. (edit: I just realized that makes almost no sense)

Basically, your DOF increases as your subject is closer, and the background is further, because the camera is focusing on something closer, so the optics are trained in closer.

If your subject is moving, a lower aperture (larger opening) and faster shutter speeds would prevent blur.

About your office cubicle, try moving it to the other side, or anywhere so that the light is not reflecting off the surface.

[Nighthawk07]

You make good points but don't be so hard on yourself man! Those are nice shots. I like number 4!

I'd critique you but my comments would be useless as I'm still learning myself as well. Are you shooting on auto mode? or aperture priority mode?

[Phalanx]

Originally Posted by Nighthawk07

You make good points but don't be so hard on yourself man! Those are nice shots. I like number 4!

I'd critique you but my comments would be useless as I'm still learning myself as well. Are you shooting on auto mode? or aperture priority mode?

IM always hard on myself, lol. Im used to it. I appreciate the kind words, though. I was just about to check out your thread

Ive been shooting in many different modes and settings. I wish there was a 'set to default' feature, lol. I think Ive messed w/ some of the settings too much. I'll get it figured out eventually tho. Only way to learn is to keep trying. Ive taken probably 300 pictures already and only posted a few.

[Phalanx]

Originally Posted by Izzy

I'm not sure how to set aperture on the XTi, actually, but with a traditional zoom, you generally get better DOF when you zoom in because of how the lens' glass works. DOF gets deeper as your subject is further from you because it starts to focus at "infinity". Background will be far, but your car is also relatively far. (edit: I just realized that makes almost no sense)

Basically, your DOF increases as your subject is closer, and the background is further, because the camera is focusing on something closer, so the optics are trained in closer.

If your subject is moving, a lower aperture (larger opening) and faster shutter speeds would prevent blur.

About your office cubicle, try moving it to the other side, or anywhere so that the light is not reflecting off the surface.

oddly enough... i actually understood the frst part of your post. i think

[Izzy]

Originally Posted by Phalanx

IM always hard on myself, lol. Im used to it. I appreciate the kind words, though. I was just about to check out your thread

Ive been shooting in many different modes and settings. I wish there was a 'set to default' feature, lol. I think Ive messed w/ some of the settings too much. I'll get it figured out eventually tho. Only way to learn is to keep trying. Ive taken probably 300 pictures already and only posted a few.

Try taking shots at Av mode (Aperture priority), and set it to as low an aperture as you can get it. You'd have to ask Jeshua how to set aperture in "M" though. I'm too used to my 30D's dual jog dials (one for shutter and one for aperture). =P

The one thing is, since you're using the kit lens, aperture doesn't stay constant throughout your zoom range. It ranges from 3.5 at 18mm all the way to 5.6 at 55mm. So you really don't have much control over your aperture if you're zooming. But, you can get somewhat offset that by getting your subject closer and further away from the background.

[Phalanx]

Originally Posted by Izzy

Try taking shots at Av mode (Aperture priority), and set it to as low an aperture as you can get it. You'd have to ask Jeshua how to set aperture in "M" though. I'm too used to my 30D's dual jog dials (one for shutter and one for aperture). =P

The one thing is, since you're using the kit lens, aperture doesn't stay constant throughout your zoom range. It ranges from 3.5 at 18mm all the way to 5.6 at 55mm. So you really don't have much control over your aperture if you're zooming. But, you can get somewhat offset that by getting your subject closer and further away from the background.

Gotcha, Ive taken most of my shots today in Av mode (my LCD screen says 'F3.5' right now, thats the aperture, right?).... what would the suggested settings be for a rolling shot? I assume a quicker shutter speed?

Whats the little graph that shows '-2..1..0..1..+2' ?

[GETxERxDONE]

only 300? by then i had about 800 or more lol

heh seeing this makes me wanna go back and look at my first shots with my friends dslr before i bought mine and see what ic an do with it

[Izzy]

Originally Posted by Phalanx

Gotcha, Ive taken most of my shots today in Av mode (my LCD screen says 'F3.5' right now, thats the aperture, right?).... what would the suggested settings be for a rolling shot? I assume a quicker shutter speed?

Whats the little graph that shows '-2..1..0..1..+2' ?

Yup, 3.5 is your current aperture. Remember though, with quicker shutter speeds means less exposure, so you get darker photos, that's why I mentioned lowering (widening) your aperture if you do those. There's no "suggested", as it fairly depends on the amount of light available.

The little graph is your exposure. In Av mode, you set aperture, and you can set how exposed you want your photos, then the camera will adjust shutter speeds to keep exposure where you set it while aperture remains constant. On the "+" side, you get slower shutter speeds, but brighter images. On the "-" side, it's the opposite, darker pictures, but faster shutter speed.

[Phalanx]

Originally Posted by GETxERxDONE

only 300? by then i had about 800 or more lol

heh seeing this makes me wanna go back and look at my first shots with my friends dslr before i bought mine and see what ic an do with it

yea... unfortunately work gets in the way. and ive been too busy wheni get home. lol.

Originally Posted by Izzy

Exposure.

i usually see that graph move when i think im chanigng my shutter speed... but im probably confused.

exposure != shutter speed?

[Izzy]

Originally Posted by Phalanx

yea... unfortunately work gets in the way. and ive been too busy wheni get home. lol.



i usually see that graph move when i think im chanigng my shutter speed... but im probably confused.

exposure != shutter speed?

Sorry, I re-edited my post. Check my post before this again.

I really shouldn't even be giving advice, until I get shots I'm happy with.

[Phalanx]

Originally Posted by Izzy

Yup, 3.5 is your current aperture. Remember though, with quicker shutter speeds means less exposure, so you get darker photos, that's why I mentioned lowering (widening) your aperture if you do those. There's no "suggested", as it fairly depends on the amount of light available.

The little graph is your exposure. In Av mode, you set aperture, and you can set how exposed you want your photos, then the camera will adjust shutter speeds to keep exposure where you set it while aperture remains constant. On the "+" side, you get slower shutter speeds, but brighter images. On the "-" side, it's the opposite, darker pictures, but faster shutter speed.

Ok, so if I set the aperture in Av mode, then change the indicator on that +/- graph, i can 'fool' the camera into using a faster shutter speed (darker pictures)?

Assuming there is ample light, i should be able to use the above method, along w/ the flash to get a crisp motion shot? ... unless im mistaken. Im gonna try and test this when I get home... but I dont leave for another 25 mins or so.

[Izzy]

Originally Posted by Phalanx

Ok, so if I set the aperture in Av mode, then change the indicator on that +/- graph, i can 'fool' the camera into using a faster shutter speed (darker pictures)?

Assuming there is ample light, i should be able to use the above method, along w/ the flash to get a crisp motion shot? ... unless im mistaken. Im gonna try and test this when I get home... but I dont leave for another 25 mins or so.

I'd guess you can do that. Remember though, with that faster shutter speed, you'd need more light to get the picture to be clear and not just a blob of black. The flash probably won't reach far enough for a rolling shot. So, try something out with friends on the weekend at noonish or high sun.

About aperture,take this shot -

I took that at f2.8, and notice that only the lettering and the weight is really in focus. Anything before and aft that is blurry, and the further it is, the blurrier it gets. I was standing about a half foot away from the end of the bar. The photo was taken with my (then-new) 17-50mm f2.8
Here, too:

The further back the background, the blurrier it got. This photo was with a 50mm f1.8.

Aaaanyway, I'm the wrong person to ask about rolling shots, honestly. I haven't really played with moving objects yet.