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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
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Engine lights on, car won't run
I have a 2007 Civic SI with a Comptech Supercharger w/Hondata Reflash, Injen CAI, DC Race Header, and Vibrant Catback. I've had the bolt-ons forhalf a year, and the supercharger for about 2 months. My car acted up and broke down on me a few days ago. The majority of the time I cruise normally, but once in awhile I'll open up when the situation is good.
It was sprinkling when I was heading back to my house. My car hesitated a bit when I was WOT, and all the engine lights (Vsa, Cel, battery, etc.) came on. I let off immediately. Cruising normally, it stumbled again 20 seconds or so later (almost like traction control kicking in when the wheels spins, except I was on the highway). After it became more frequent, I pull over a few minutes later. I open the hood, and everything looked fine. Engine temperature was normal. A few minutes later, I start the car up again. The same problem is still there. The problem gets worse, it kept stumbling. It seemed to stumble no matter what speed or rpm's I'm at. Eventually my car completely dies on me. I call my friend to help me push my car back. The engine would crank, but it wouldn't turn on. We were able to get it push started easily. The stumbling continues, growing more frequent with time. It would stall again after about20-30 seconds. The cycle continued, with more frequency over time. What I noticed was that every time it stumbled, all the dash lights would come on. I figured something was triggering the ecu to make the car hesitate, and I still think that. When we got the car back to my house, we scanned everything, and it looked fine. We'll pulled and reconnected the battery, and we still ran into the same problems. I get it pulled the next day to my mechanics that installed my supercharger and race header. I figured that Honda would have be better at diagnosing, but I figured all my mods would shoo them away. My mechanics said that the fuses were fine, ignition was fine, and the couldn't get anything out of the scanner. They told me they think it's the computer, and I either need a new one, or a reflash. They said they didn't get any signal from the computer to the scanner. I call Hondata. They said what I initially thought, and that is that something is likely triggering the ecu. The ecu couldn't just break all of the sudden. They also said that there's just too many variables to determine what happened, which is what I feared. So I come to you guys/gals for help. Should I tow it to the Honda dealer? Get a new ecu? send it to Hondata? Thanks for any input. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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PL_FA5_KT
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ya check the comp and stuff a honda dealer would laugh if u bring it in and ask for warrenty, they would fix it, but for an arm and a leg
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![]() ALL MY POLISH PEOPLE CHECK IN HERE http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/europ...heck-here.html official 8thcivic chicago crew http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mid-w...cago-crew.html I THINK IM DEAD http://youtube.com/watch?v=hnZb5wi_jsU&feature=related |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
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Im sure it's the ecu..but like Hondata said, there's something that had to trigger the ecu to act up like that. If the ecu is surely damaged, and I replace it with a new one, reflashed and all, the underlying problem is likely still there.
What should I check? How much are new ecu's, and where can I get one? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Blueroadster has one for sale
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...w-oem-ecm.html |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Lesson #1 : Thats what you get for paying someone else to do your kit install. Next time do your own shit so that when it breaks, you can fix it.
Lesson #2: An important unit such as an ECU, you should always have a OEM spare hanging around, or know of a person or place where you can source one temporarly. That way, you can always revert back to OEM limp mode. Hondata may be good, but even they have off days. Lesson #3: Don't even think about bringing your shit to Honda. I doubt they will even look at it for you as it is way beyond OEM, and hence a liability for them if it goes wrong again, and this time you crash. I would start sorting through all of the sensors that were involved in the install ie: MAF, Crank, Camshaft, injectors...etc. Be sure to verify that you still have fuel, spark and compression. While doing this, source a OEM ECU to rule that out as well. Look for loose taps, grounds,...etc. |
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