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#1 (permalink) |
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ēmuch FAP... overload
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: projector isle
Age: 23
Posts: 45,970
205whp 147tq :D
iTrader: 36 / 100%
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Alternator Going bad... AGAIN
So the last few days I've noticed that when ever my radiator fan cuts on, its like my cars electronics surge and power off and then right back on. Mostly just the radio. It got worse though, my headlights and fogs cut off then back on. One bulb didn't cut back on so i pulled over at McDonalds to see whats going on. Now my positive terminal connector could be replaced as it doesnt fit as snug as it used to. But I know its not coming on and off the battery post when I'm driving. I just got the alternator replaced around 71k miles.... i'd hate to have to bring it in again for the same stupid reason though it looks like I might have to ![]() Only extra electronics i'm running are 2 hid kits and it still does it during the day time when the lights are off. Ground wire kit which shouldn't do anything negative and a voltage stabilizer. No aftermarket system or anything. Any other ideas of what it might be? Gonna call the dealership tomorrow, sigh...
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#3 (permalink) |
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Kill Your Self Krew
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Looks like the dealer set you up on your last visit.
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#6 (permalink) |
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ēmuch FAP... overload
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: projector isle
Age: 23
Posts: 45,970
205whp 147tq :D
iTrader: 36 / 100%
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I also failed to mention that a few weeks ago on the stock battery, I woke up one morning to find out the car wouldn't start. Had to jump it because the battery was dead. I didn't leave any lights on or anything like that. I've gotten a new battery since then so I know it can't be that.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Could also be your battery. If it's getting weak then all of the electrical load of devices (esp high drain ones like rad fans) is getting put on the alternator, which can't deal with high current peaks alone.
If you have had two alts fail so soon then you must be overpowering them with the stuff you added and killing it prematurely. EDIT: Nevermind about the battery thing, you just posted and said you got a new one. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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ēmuch FAP... overload
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: projector isle
Age: 23
Posts: 45,970
205whp 147tq :D
iTrader: 36 / 100%
|
yeah, but i doubt that does anything with holding a charge. My car acted like this a few times before I got the alternator replaced the first time. At that point I was only running 1 HID kit and thats it.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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ēmuch FAP... overload
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: projector isle
Age: 23
Posts: 45,970
205whp 147tq :D
iTrader: 36 / 100%
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Quote:
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#12 (permalink) |
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ēmuch FAP... overload
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: projector isle
Age: 23
Posts: 45,970
205whp 147tq :D
iTrader: 36 / 100%
|
Went to a shop this morning to test the charging system, family friend I guess you could say. Said my charging system is completely fine.
Looks like I won't be needing a new alternator Figured out that the positive terminals on the HIDs aren't seated fully against the post. After readjusting them a bit making sure everything sat FLUSH, I let the car sit thru a few cycles with nothing on at first. Passed that test. Then had the radio and defroster on.. once again it passed. Then the real moment of truth, HIDs both sets, radio and defroster on.... and it passed again. I drove with my HIDs and everything on and for about 30 miles to really test it. Came up to a few lights and when the radiator fans cut on, nothing shut off The idle is a bit rough though, i'm sure the ECU reseted a few times during this whole ordeal. Gonna relearn the idle later today and hopefully all is well.I'm probably going to replace the positive terminal on the car's harness itself first. Its pretty worn and doesn't snuggly grab the positive post as much as it used. If that doesn't fix it then I'm going to replace all three positive terminals on the HIDs and voltage stabilizer.
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Last edited by ryryninja; 04-29-2008 at 11:55 AM. |
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