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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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car went into limp mode..
i removed my subs the day before yesterday, did everything right, disconnected the power wire then unplugged every thing and took em out. soon after i turned my car on and it took about 5 cranks because i had reset the ecu, no biggie.
yesterday morning it takes about 9 cranks and my bettery light and CEL come on... oh ****.. my car hesitates when driving and it wont rev past 3500 RPM. during gym period i check out of school and take it to honda where they will handle it (hopefully) i get a call back later in the day saying the alternator went bad and took the battery down with it (battery was low on power anyways) all replaced under warranty ![]() im just curious as to how this could of happend.. should i have drivin the car around mroe after taking out the amp? this is beyond me... |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
you know nothing of my electrical background. I have my associates in Electrical engineering, Computer engineering and am currently working on biomedical equipment technology (extremely electronics oriented) Both my past 2 vehicles had 1000 + watt systems (installed myself) and never had any trouble out of my alternator or electrical system. Dont just assume things about people you know nothing about . Thanks:
Last edited by liquidr1; 01-15-2008 at 04:35 PM. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Mississauga Ontario, Eh
Age: 25
Posts: 10,605
Thats Mr.Bart to you!
iTrader: 30 / 100%
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a cap reduces spikes.. the amp deaws a fluctuating amount of power, where as a cap is a buffer and draws a more constant amount of power. therefore reducing the strain on the alternator... this is exacly why they are used as noise surpression too...
Last edited by portabuddy; 01-15-2008 at 09:28 PM. |
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