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Old 07-17-2006, 08:59 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jokieman
I think the main problem I have with your original post is that you based the Oil's life on the color of it, when in fact the color of your Engine oil has very little to do with how it is holding up as has been proven on other forums by forum members who regularly have their oil tested by a lab.

The Sulfur content in the gas for your area might indeed be an issue, however the blackness of the oil means absolutely nothing in terms of whether or not it is bad or not. I never said this was a way to judge the life of the oil, this would be a very poor method of doing so, you are putting words in my mouth I never said.

Also remember that the actual dealerships make money on the changing of your oils/and other fluids, and this is in fact where they make the MOST profit.

If you're worried about it, then have it changed every 3-4k and be done with it, but as someone who is "supposed" to have more knowledge than most, I find you using the degree that your are "studying" for to lend credence to something that is totally false, a bit worrisome to say the least.
No in fact the only thing I said about the oil is that it should not be clear or look new after 1,000's of miles. ANY WHO KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT OIL WILL AGREE. I think you are greatly confusing what I said, some people that believe once the oil is dark, it needs to be changed, that is NOT at all what I said. If your oil is dark it is doing it's job.

EVERY engine has blow by, which cause a small amounts of carbon to get into the engine, it is the oils job to suspend this to prevent it from depositing on/in the engine. Having carbon being suspended in the oil makes it dark. If you run oil for 5,000 miles and it comes out clear, that means it did not suspend the carbon, no engine (maybe a hybrid... not sure about those things) can go 5,000 miles with out blackening an oil. If the oil is not holding carbon, certainly you have to agree that it has been kept in the engine to long be cause it is no longer doing one of the important features of modern oil, preventing carbon and sludge build up.

If you disagree with me, show me a reputable oil forum where people say it is fine to have oil after an extended period of time come out clear... I would like to see that... and then see how long their cars last.

I never said you could base how much the life on the color of the oil, I just said if it comes out clear, then you have kept it in to long.

As for the dealership, the local Honda dealer changes the oil, washes the car, and tops all fluid off for $14.95. It costs me $12 to do it, it is probably worth $3 to have them dispose of the oil and do it for me, but I still do it myself. In fact the owner said he makes NOTHING on the oil changes. Where he makes his money is if someone brings in their cars for oil, maybe they will see something wrong with the car and make money by fixing it.
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Old 07-17-2006, 09:29 AM   #62 (permalink)
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i got oil change at 1000 miles then another one at 2000
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Old 07-17-2006, 09:33 AM   #63 (permalink)
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still waiting for 15% currant milage is close to 5K........Was always told to leave the first on in the longest time....hence 15%
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Old 07-17-2006, 02:08 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Lightbulb

It's funny to read through this thread, as I did the same thing about 3 years ago on a motorcycle fourm. Interesting thing is that I was told that motorcycle oils have their own set/% of additives that make using car oil a no no in them...mainly due to the wet clutch. I remember one guy on the forum that worked for the agency that actually tests the different oils on the market. There was just to much information I knew nothing about for it to be useful. I decided to use Mobile 1 v-twin synthetic on the bike, as one thing I did learn and believe is that synthetic holds up better in the high heat and stress.....and bike definitly make plenty of heat and stress, especially when your beating on them (which is most of the time ).
I am not an oil expert, but like to think I am qualified to be called a gear head. Even still, I will likely change mine when the computer tells me to (unless my old school change every 3.5k brainwashing can't hold out). Honda would not put their quality and high milage reputation on the line for the sake of saving the worlds oil supply.

-Heath
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Old 07-17-2006, 02:18 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrfish007
No in fact the only thing I said about the oil is that it should not be clear or look new after 1,000's of miles. ANY WHO KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT OIL WILL AGREE. I think you are greatly confusing what I said, some people that believe once the oil is dark, it needs to be changed, that is NOT at all what I said. If your oil is dark it is doing it's job.

(snip).
Going to have to go with Jrfish007 on this. As a reference, your oil is supposed to darken (but not turn black) relatively quickly due to the suspended soot, etc. in the oil. It is that suspension and detergent that keeps sludge from gunking up the engine.

Couple of good oil articles for reference:

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

http://www.yotarepair.com/sludge%20article.html
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:59 PM   #66 (permalink)
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When I went to get my first oil change I had 20% left on the MM and the service manager said to wait until it reaches 15% percent because if they change it before then it "will throw of the computer" or something like that. He also said that its not about kilometers(I'm in Canada) anymore and all about the MM. So much discrepency between the dealerships. I don't know who to believe anymore.
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Old 08-15-2006, 06:23 PM   #67 (permalink)
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i just got my oil change done yesterday at 30% at 3900 miles... i know i should have waited longer (damn)... could i switch to synthetic immediately?
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Old 08-21-2006, 12:56 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I have 3100 miles and my minder says 40%...I have time. I will change the oil at 5K no matter what. Normally I change oil at 1K to clean the motor out.

However, does anyone have a problem with Mobil 1 for the first oil change? If not, what weight do I use?
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Old 08-21-2006, 04:01 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenekim.net
i just got my oil change done yesterday at 30% at 3900 miles... i know i should have waited longer (damn)... could i switch to synthetic immediately?

Your fine and you can switch to synthetic oil when ever you want.
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Old 09-03-2007, 08:13 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I guess I'll be one of the few that will follow the Oil change interval that the computer tells me.

  1. I'll trust the people that made my car and tested the engine
  2. I'll trust good quality synthetic oil - Elf or Amsoil
  3. It's been shown on other cars when the drivers had UOA taken at various intervals that the intial few thousands miles had a higher wear level than the later. The oil additive package needed time to settle in?? Something like that
  4. I'll also be using the Amsoil EA oil filter and hopefully a Amsoil EA air filter when they make them
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Old 09-04-2007, 01:10 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khunthun
I got a question that relates to this in a way. I have a Si and it is my weekend car. I have had the car for 4 months and it barely broke the 1000 mi mark. Still has that "special break in" oil in it still. At this rate, by the end of the year I still wouldn't be at the recommended schedule change of 5000 miles. What shall I do? just change it when it gets to 6 months? Or go a little longer with the "special oil"?

I have the same question, i travel oversea a lot and during this period no one drives my car, in case im traveling for over one month i let them drive my car to keep the battery good. But do i have to wait until the 5000 km to change the oil or changed it every 3 months?
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