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Old 07-11-2007, 01:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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mechanic?

hey does anyone know somebody that can put in a new engine for my si?
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you blow your old one or are you doing a swap. The dealer is your best option for the former.
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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hydrolock... and warranty aint gonna cover it so insurance is... im trying to find a guy in the area that can do if for cheap
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Wow. Sorry man.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That really sux, sorry to hear about that. You can always try a engine rebuild shop, the ones that put in new or rebuilt engines and give you 3 year warranty's etc.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What is hydrolock?
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Treatment

Regardless of the cause, treatment is the same. Removal of the spark plugs will allow access to the combustion chamber. By inserting an irrigation syringe fitted with a flexible plastic tube on the end, you can suck out the liquid that infiltrated the combustion chamber. Once all the fluid is removed, the chamber should be sprayed with a liberal coating of a water displacing lubricant such as WD40[citation needed], and allowed to sit until the remaining water has evaporated. Once the water or coolant has been removed, inspect the combustion chamber for rust. The best option would be to remove the head, but a borescope or small flashlight and mirror will also work. Light surface rust will be normal, but if you see any heavy corrosion, it should be gently removed, and vacuumed out of the chamber. After inspection, pour a tablespoon of assembly lube (such as Marvel Mystery Oil) or clean engine oil into each combustion chamber. Attach a socket to the crankshaft, and slowly rotate the engine through a few revolutions. (Make sure that you turn the engine in the proper direction, see a service manual for proper rotation direction.) If you hear any clanking, or harsh scraping, you should bring the engine to a competent mechanic. After verifying that the remaining systems are free of water (electrical, fuel delivery, air intake, distributor, etc.), re-install the spark plugs and wires, and attempt to start the engine.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goofygamer
What is hydrolock?
ur face
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kero
Treatment

Regardless of the cause, treatment is the same. Removal of the spark plugs will allow access to the combustion chamber. By inserting an irrigation syringe fitted with a flexible plastic tube on the end, you can suck out the liquid that infiltrated the combustion chamber. Once all the fluid is removed, the chamber should be sprayed with a liberal coating of a water displacing lubricant such as WD40[citation needed], and allowed to sit until the remaining water has evaporated. Once the water or coolant has been removed, inspect the combustion chamber for rust. The best option would be to remove the head, but a borescope or small flashlight and mirror will also work. Light surface rust will be normal, but if you see any heavy corrosion, it should be gently removed, and vacuumed out of the chamber. After inspection, pour a tablespoon of assembly lube (such as Marvel Mystery Oil) or clean engine oil into each combustion chamber. Attach a socket to the crankshaft, and slowly rotate the engine through a few revolutions. (Make sure that you turn the engine in the proper direction, see a service manual for proper rotation direction.) If you hear any clanking, or harsh scraping, you should bring the engine to a competent mechanic. After verifying that the remaining systems are free of water (electrical, fuel delivery, air intake, distributor, etc.), re-install the spark plugs and wires, and attempt to start the engine.
busted a rod
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by futhermucker
busted a rod
damn, that sucks. I blew two motors on my old civic, a D16 and a B18B, but my B16 is still running strong.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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GL with the repairs!
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Old 07-11-2007, 11:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by futhermucker
busted a rod
Well I guess that remove the possibility of treament. Sorry.
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Old 07-13-2007, 10:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm sorry but I just don't buy that it hyrdolocked.
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Old 07-13-2007, 10:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommygun43
I'm sorry but I just don't buy that it hyrdolocked.
busted rod?
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firestrife
busted rod?
Because it was hydrolocked, the piston wanted to move up during it's compression/exhaust stroke but couldn't because of the water. The only thing to give out was the connecting rod. The connecting rod is a a rod that attaches the piston to the crankshaft while allowing both to pivot freely at each end so that the engine can do it's thing.
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kero
Treatment

Regardless of the cause, treatment is the same. Removal of the spark plugs will allow access to the combustion chamber. By inserting an irrigation syringe fitted with a flexible plastic tube on the end, you can suck out the liquid that infiltrated the combustion chamber. Once all the fluid is removed, the chamber should be sprayed with a liberal coating of a water displacing lubricant such as WD40[citation needed], and allowed to sit until the remaining water has evaporated. Once the water or coolant has been removed, inspect the combustion chamber for rust. The best option would be to remove the head, but a borescope or small flashlight and mirror will also work. Light surface rust will be normal, but if you see any heavy corrosion, it should be gently removed, and vacuumed out of the chamber. After inspection, pour a tablespoon of assembly lube (such as Marvel Mystery Oil) or clean engine oil into each combustion chamber. Attach a socket to the crankshaft, and slowly rotate the engine through a few revolutions. (Make sure that you turn the engine in the proper direction, see a service manual for proper rotation direction.) If you hear any clanking, or harsh scraping, you should bring the engine to a competent mechanic. After verifying that the remaining systems are free of water (electrical, fuel delivery, air intake, distributor, etc.), re-install the spark plugs and wires, and attempt to start the engine.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:22 AM   #17 (permalink)
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hydrolock, ya...ok. like it's common or something. Hydrolock is extremely, EXTREMELY rare.

turns out it wasn't hydrolocked.

Last edited by Tommygun43; 08-02-2007 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 10-01-2007, 02:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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how much for a CONNECTING ROD?
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:05 PM   #19 (permalink)
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i have a 81 cj-5 for my play around vehicle...one day i was cruising along and all of a sudden BOOM...engine locked up no clue what happened....opened hood to find coolent in radiator to be below half way but none had ran out on the ground....so I towed it home and started taking parts off....I started with the water pump and to my surprise the thing would not even turn....when pulled off a bunch of fragments fell off the motor and I was freaking out....ended up the camshaft bolt that holds the gear in place worked its way loose and punched its way through the water pump housing....that was a sad day.....lost a lot of horsepower from water damage....
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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That Sucks....hope You Fix It Soon
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