Problem with not bolting MTF holes to spec?

[Asian Hamster]

Would it be bad if didn't tighten the MTF fill and drain plug to spec when I change the fluid? What if I just tighten them really hard to the point that no amount of human effort can get it to go much tighter?

[Tastycakes]

Yea that should be good. When i worked at jiffy lube thats all we did was just tighten it really good, no torque meter.

[racerex]

Originally Posted by Tastycakes

Yea that should be good. When i worked at jiffy lube thats all we did was just tighten it really good, no torque meter.

^ That's why I would stay away from any of those quick lube places.


Tastycakes: Just go out and buy a torque wrench. I'm a weeked warrior mechanic and I own 3 torque wrenches (one MAC and two Snap-On).....one low torque 1/4" drive in./lbs wrench, one flex head 3/8" drive 15-75 ft/lbs and one 1/2" drive ??-250 ft/lbs.

I've wrenching cars and bikes for over 30 years and I torque every nut or bolt that I remove back to spec. When you wrench on sportbikes, one bolt can make the differnce between life and death.

[pure2.0]

+1 for a torque wrench. Everyone who works on their cars should have one. It is worth the one-time cost to get a good one.

[racerex]

Originally Posted by pure2.0

It is worth the one-time cost to get a good one.

Yeah, don't cheap out. You can buy a Craftsman 3/8" 10-75 ft/lbs torque wrench for around $60. A quality MAC, Snap-On, MATCO, etc. 3/8" drive 15-75 ft/lb click type torque wrench will set you back $200+ off the truck or you can do the eBay thing.

If I was spending you're money, I'd go with one of the higher end wrenches if you plan on doing wrenching in the years to come. Oh yeah, this goes for any torque wrench.......you don't want to beat the piss out them (i.e., return the wrench to 0 ft/lbs after each use, don't use it a breaker-bar, don't drop it, etc.). Also.....depending on how much use it gets, you should have it tested and re-calibrated on a semi-regular basis. I have mine tested every year or so.......I send them out to company down South (it's pretty cheap to have tested and re-calibrated)

[Kidekat]

I think for a bolt such as the MTX drain, all that is required is to torque it until snug, then another 1/4 turn. There is no need to HE-Man the bolt on there.

I agree with others about owning a torque wrenchs. We have one clicker type for torquing wheels and such, a fish scale for torquing more delicate items such as Head gasket bolts, bed plates...etc, and a smaller inch pound for finer threads such as spark plugs, sensors...etc.

[Yodums]

Get the torque wrench. It's a small investment that can go a long way.