DIY: HONDATA IMG INSTALL

[Raging]

I'm getting ready for this install this weekend... This one seems to really intimidate me for some reason... What's involved with removing and then installing the fuel injectors ,etc?? How do you keep from getting air into them?

[Si2006]

umm where do i buy both the gaskets?

[dentrecords]

www.corsportusa.com has them

[taejinah]

i'm trying this right now.. .and i'm having a real hard time getting to those bolts underneath... do i need a lift for this or something??

i'm driving over to my friends house to pick up a breaker bar because these bolts are torqued so much from the factory -_-

[Lit06Si]

Thanks alot man. I'm going to try this. I really appreciate it.

[taejinah]

I'm going to make a little addition to this DIY for those who are less experienced with dismantling parts of the engine. Batang, you usually have great DIY's, but I have to call you out on this one. The tools listed were not complete, you fail to give an estimated time to finish this (which is coincidentally MUCH more than you made it seem), you lack any detail. I might as well have been told remove your manifold and replace.

First off, you are going to be very, very frustrated. Doing something as simple looking and as simple sounding (as batang made it sound) is definitely NOT.

I've installed a CAI myself and this IMG didn't seem too bad. I WAS WRONG. It took me and a friend almost 7 hours to do this.

First of all tools needed: you need pretty much every extension known to man. You should have

all sizes of ratches (at least 3 sizes... a small one, med one, and a large one.)
I used a combination of 3 different sized extensions for the ratchets as well as 2 different sizes of the actualy 12mm and 10mm attachments. One was a short one about an inch long, the other was about 2-3 inches long.

::::: HONESTLY, I think you should have a bevy of tools at your disposal. One of my buddies likes to work on his cars so he has pretty much every ratchet tool/extension, etc that possibly exists. You are going to need a lot of creativity mixing and matching these extensions to remove some of these bolts (especially the bottom row and the bracket).

Also the second thing to take note is the bolts are on from the factory SO TIGHT that it takes a lot of force and concentration to get them off with the angles you'll be coming from; they are very prone to being stripped if you are not careful. When you remove these bolts be careful not to drop them. It is very easy to drop the bolts if you are not taking your time. If you do drop the bolts, good luck getting them out of some of the parts of the engine bay. Luckily I had help so I didnt drop any... but if I did it would've made my life a living hell (as if it wasn't already because of the lack of detail in the DIY). As the hondata instructions put it, you should have a magnetic claw (?) to get those bolts that, "you WILL drop."

Now, as stated in the DIY, DRAIN YOUR COOLANT (I wasn't exactly sure how so I left it and tried to get by without doing so.. but the coolant will start leaking out once you remove the intake manifold). I had many puddles of coolant leftover in my engine bay that had to be cleaned through a very tedious process when i was finished.

All other hoses are just vaccuum hoses of sorts so you can just remove them with a bit of tugging and maybe a flathead screwdriver to help the process.

Now, the fuel rail. Once you take off the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail down you can just pull the whole thing outward and the injectors will come out.. don't worry no gas will come out at this point. When you go to de-tach the fuel rail though, gasoline WILL COME OUT SO WATCH OUT. It won't be a whole lot... just the remaining gas that was inside the fuel rail.

You will see a bulky plastic cover that only goes around a half circumference. toward the end of the fuel rail assembly. Take that black plastic cover off. You will see a greenish/teal clip that can be removed by squeezing both ends. Do so and you can disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line. CAREFUL OF THE GAS COMING FROM BOTH THE TUBING (which I covered with foil to prevent more spillage) and THE FUEL RAIL (which I capped with a paper towel before moving more). Now you can just move the fuel rail aside.

Ok so, at this point I had removed all the hosing as well as bolts etc. Now it's time for the bracket that batang mentions but does not go into detail....

You have to go underneath the car for this. You might possibly be able to get it from the top but at least you can see the bolts better from the bottom. There are 2 that are holding the bracket in place. For the one on the underside of the manifold you will have to use a longer 12mm ratchet connection (the 2 inch ish one). First remove the wiring harness that is in the way (it's a simple 1 sided clip connected to the bracket.)

Now, everything has been removed and the manifold is ready for removal. Well, it should be... but wasn't for me.

There is a chunk of metal sticking out from the alternator that has a shaved off corner. This is getting in the way of removing the manifold. I'm hoping it's only my car that wasn't shaved off enough because you guys are going to be frustrated if it happens to you too.

Luckily, my friend got a nice idea to use a flathead and chisel down the semi-shaved piece until the manifold could finally slide out. Remove in the way that batang described.

Now at this point my IMG became a stupid litle piece of plastic that doesn't seem worth the time. Anyway, I replaced this dumb piece of plastic and went in reverse to re-assemble everything.

In summary:

est. 3-4 hours for experienced, 6+ hours for inexperienced (this includes anyone who has not taken out their intake manifold before).

Bolts are on super tight from factory. Careful not to strip. Careful not to drop into the engine bay.

Have every exention and size ratchet you can think of. You will need them to get off the bolts (especially the bottom row and bracket).

If you cannot get the manifold off, chisel.

Prepare to be very frustrated.

Good luck!

[taejinah]

Oh I forgot to add a section that batang missed. Sort of.

You do not need to disconnect the hose at the bottom. You can simply unbolt the black metal coolant line that seems like it would be in the way (this seems much easier than taking off the hose...)

Look for the black metal piping that would be in the way of that bottom hose. Unbolt at the nearby bolt, follow it back and unbolt near the black plastic box. Now it will be able to move freely so as not to be in the way.

[Tom1222]

Nice Write Up!
Now what is this Manifold Gasket suppose to do? It is thicker for better heat disapation I assume?
How much was it and how long did it take you to install?
Can you tell a difference in performance?

Thanks again for a great DIY

[ABQSI]

Awesome write up! You described my experience almost exactly.
I also had that piece of metal from the alternator blocking me from removing the manifold. I ended up taking out the studs. Also, I did not disconnect the fuel rail... just pulled it and the injectors out of the manifold and laid it over to the right.
Anyway, excellent write-up and description of your frustration... :) had I read this before I did my install I might have not gotten so mad when things started to get hairy. :) This should help a lot of people.

[Blk4drSI]

Originally Posted by dentrecords

www.corsportusa.com has them

I couldnt find them on the corsport website. I will try somewhere else, I just try to make corsport my first stop for everything.

[Blk4drSI]

Originally Posted by taejinah

I'm going to make a little addition to this DIY for those who are less experienced with dismantling parts of the engine. Batang, you usually have great DIY's, but I have to call you out on this one. The tools listed were not complete, you fail to give an estimated time to finish this (which is coincidentally MUCH more than you made it seem), you lack any detail. I might as well have been told remove your manifold and replace.

First off, you are going to be very, very frustrated. Doing something as simple looking and as simple sounding (as batang made it sound) is definitely NOT.

I've installed a CAI myself and this IMG didn't seem too bad. I WAS WRONG. It took me and a friend almost 7 hours to do this.

First of all tools needed: you need pretty much every extension known to man. You should have

all sizes of ratches (at least 3 sizes... a small one, med one, and a large one.)
I used a combination of 3 different sized extensions for the ratchets as well as 2 different sizes of the actualy 12mm and 10mm attachments. One was a short one about an inch long, the other was about 2-3 inches long.

::::: HONESTLY, I think you should have a bevy of tools at your disposal. One of my buddies likes to work on his cars so he has pretty much every ratchet tool/extension, etc that possibly exists. You are going to need a lot of creativity mixing and matching these extensions to remove some of these bolts (especially the bottom row and the bracket).

Also the second thing to take note is the bolts are on from the factory SO TIGHT that it takes a lot of force and concentration to get them off with the angles you'll be coming from; they are very prone to being stripped if you are not careful. When you remove these bolts be careful not to drop them. It is very easy to drop the bolts if you are not taking your time. If you do drop the bolts, good luck getting them out of some of the parts of the engine bay. Luckily I had help so I didnt drop any... but if I did it would've made my life a living hell (as if it wasn't already because of the lack of detail in the DIY). As the hondata instructions put it, you should have a magnetic claw (?) to get those bolts that, "you WILL drop."

Now, as stated in the DIY, DRAIN YOUR COOLANT (I wasn't exactly sure how so I left it and tried to get by without doing so.. but the coolant will start leaking out once you remove the intake manifold). I had many puddles of coolant leftover in my engine bay that had to be cleaned through a very tedious process when i was finished.

All other hoses are just vaccuum hoses of sorts so you can just remove them with a bit of tugging and maybe a flathead screwdriver to help the process.

Now, the fuel rail. Once you take off the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail down you can just pull the whole thing outward and the injectors will come out.. don't worry no gas will come out at this point. When you go to de-tach the fuel rail though, gasoline WILL COME OUT SO WATCH OUT. It won't be a whole lot... just the remaining gas that was inside the fuel rail.

You will see a bulky plastic cover that only goes around a half circumference. toward the end of the fuel rail assembly. Take that black plastic cover off. You will see a greenish/teal clip that can be removed by squeezing both ends. Do so and you can disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line. CAREFUL OF THE GAS COMING FROM BOTH THE TUBING (which I covered with foil to prevent more spillage) and THE FUEL RAIL (which I capped with a paper towel before moving more). Now you can just move the fuel rail aside.

Ok so, at this point I had removed all the hosing as well as bolts etc. Now it's time for the bracket that batang mentions but does not go into detail....

You have to go underneath the car for this. You might possibly be able to get it from the top but at least you can see the bolts better from the bottom. There are 2 that are holding the bracket in place. For the one on the underside of the manifold you will have to use a longer 12mm ratchet connection (the 2 inch ish one). First remove the wiring harness that is in the way (it's a simple 1 sided clip connected to the bracket.)

Now, everything has been removed and the manifold is ready for removal. Well, it should be... but wasn't for me.

There is a chunk of metal sticking out from the alternator that has a shaved off corner. This is getting in the way of removing the manifold. I'm hoping it's only my car that wasn't shaved off enough because you guys are going to be frustrated if it happens to you too.

Luckily, my friend got a nice idea to use a flathead and chisel down the semi-shaved piece until the manifold could finally slide out. Remove in the way that batang described.

Now at this point my IMG became a stupid litle piece of plastic that doesn't seem worth the time. Anyway, I replaced this dumb piece of plastic and went in reverse to re-assemble everything.

In summary:

est. 3-4 hours for experienced, 6+ hours for inexperienced (this includes anyone who has not taken out their intake manifold before).

Bolts are on super tight from factory. Careful not to strip. Careful not to drop into the engine bay.

Have every exention and size ratchet you can think of. You will need them to get off the bolts (especially the bottom row and bracket).

If you cannot get the manifold off, chisel.

Prepare to be very frustrated.

Good luck!

So in retrospect, would you say that they Hondata IMG is worth my time and money? Im thinking about doing it, but if its more trouble than its worth I am not going to mess with it.

[webby]

Originally Posted by Blk4drSI

I couldnt find them on the corsport website. I will try somewhere else, I just try to make corsport my first stop for everything.

http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...oducts_id=1647

[Blk4drSI]

Oh my bad, I thought you said that they carry the Hondata img, I wasnt aware that corsport had their own, bit I will buy theirs because its cheaper and the quality has to be around the same. Or at least you would think.

[Tom1222]

Originally Posted by Blk4drSI

So in retrospect, would you say that they Hondata IMG is worth my time and money? Im thinking about doing it, but if its more trouble than its worth I am not going to mess with it.

I want to know the same thing. Was it worth it? I mean how much cooler is it running and is that small difference really worth the aggrevation?

[Tom1222]

Originally Posted by Tom1222

I want to know the same thing. Was it worth it? I mean how much cooler is it running and is that small difference really worth the aggrevation?

In other words knowing what you know now would you do it again or just leave well enough alone?

[Qshooter151]

Originally Posted by Tom1222

In other words knowing what you know now would you do it again or just leave well enough alone?

hahahaha...taejinah's experience was very similar to mine and even on the same day! i just installed mine on the 28th also. i will be posting up a new and more accurate DIY with pics. maybe tonight, if not, tomorrow. took me about 4 hrs with 1 small socket set, a few metric wrenches and needle nose pliers. i also took apart much more of my car...DIY coming soon...

[Raging]

Thank you taejinah!!
You've made a few of my fears subside with this excellent detailed informative write-up... I am going to wait till you guys post some photos too to give a visual reference on this stuff... I don't want to go into this blindly, and before your write up that is exactly how I was feeling!! Thanks buddy!!.... Rep +1

[reaper702]

ty taejinah, i knew that the original DIY seemed like it was lacking some vital info. thankfully i saw this post before i attempt to do this in a week or so

[BATANG CITY JAIL]

Originally Posted by taejinah

I'm going to make a little addition to this DIY for those who are less experienced with dismantling parts of the engine. Batang, you usually have great DIY's, but I have to call you out on this one. The tools listed were not complete, you fail to give an estimated time to finish this (which is coincidentally MUCH more than you made it seem), you lack any detail. I might as well have been told remove your manifold and replace.

First off, you are going to be very, very frustrated. Doing something as simple looking and as simple sounding (as batang made it sound) is definitely NOT.

I've installed a CAI myself and this IMG didn't seem too bad. I WAS WRONG. It took me and a friend almost 7 hours to do this.

First of all tools needed: you need pretty much every extension known to man. You should have

all sizes of ratches (at least 3 sizes... a small one, med one, and a large one.)
I used a combination of 3 different sized extensions for the ratchets as well as 2 different sizes of the actualy 12mm and 10mm attachments. One was a short one about an inch long, the other was about 2-3 inches long.

::::: HONESTLY, I think you should have a bevy of tools at your disposal. One of my buddies likes to work on his cars so he has pretty much every ratchet tool/extension, etc that possibly exists. You are going to need a lot of creativity mixing and matching these extensions to remove some of these bolts (especially the bottom row and the bracket).

Also the second thing to take note is the bolts are on from the factory SO TIGHT that it takes a lot of force and concentration to get them off with the angles you'll be coming from; they are very prone to being stripped if you are not careful. When you remove these bolts be careful not to drop them. It is very easy to drop the bolts if you are not taking your time. If you do drop the bolts, good luck getting them out of some of the parts of the engine bay. Luckily I had help so I didnt drop any... but if I did it would've made my life a living hell (as if it wasn't already because of the lack of detail in the DIY). As the hondata instructions put it, you should have a magnetic claw (?) to get those bolts that, "you WILL drop."

Now, as stated in the DIY, DRAIN YOUR COOLANT (I wasn't exactly sure how so I left it and tried to get by without doing so.. but the coolant will start leaking out once you remove the intake manifold). I had many puddles of coolant leftover in my engine bay that had to be cleaned through a very tedious process when i was finished.

All other hoses are just vaccuum hoses of sorts so you can just remove them with a bit of tugging and maybe a flathead screwdriver to help the process.

Now, the fuel rail. Once you take off the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail down you can just pull the whole thing outward and the injectors will come out.. don't worry no gas will come out at this point. When you go to de-tach the fuel rail though, gasoline WILL COME OUT SO WATCH OUT. It won't be a whole lot... just the remaining gas that was inside the fuel rail.

You will see a bulky plastic cover that only goes around a half circumference. toward the end of the fuel rail assembly. Take that black plastic cover off. You will see a greenish/teal clip that can be removed by squeezing both ends. Do so and you can disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line. CAREFUL OF THE GAS COMING FROM BOTH THE TUBING (which I covered with foil to prevent more spillage) and THE FUEL RAIL (which I capped with a paper towel before moving more). Now you can just move the fuel rail aside.

Ok so, at this point I had removed all the hosing as well as bolts etc. Now it's time for the bracket that batang mentions but does not go into detail....

You have to go underneath the car for this. You might possibly be able to get it from the top but at least you can see the bolts better from the bottom. There are 2 that are holding the bracket in place. For the one on the underside of the manifold you will have to use a longer 12mm ratchet connection (the 2 inch ish one). First remove the wiring harness that is in the way (it's a simple 1 sided clip connected to the bracket.)

Now, everything has been removed and the manifold is ready for removal. Well, it should be... but wasn't for me.

There is a chunk of metal sticking out from the alternator that has a shaved off corner. This is getting in the way of removing the manifold. I'm hoping it's only my car that wasn't shaved off enough because you guys are going to be frustrated if it happens to you too.

Luckily, my friend got a nice idea to use a flathead and chisel down the semi-shaved piece until the manifold could finally slide out. Remove in the way that batang described.

Now at this point my IMG became a stupid litle piece of plastic that doesn't seem worth the time. Anyway, I replaced this dumb piece of plastic and went in reverse to re-assemble everything.

In summary:

est. 3-4 hours for experienced, 6+ hours for inexperienced (this includes anyone who has not taken out their intake manifold before).

Bolts are on super tight from factory. Careful not to strip. Careful not to drop into the engine bay.

Have every exention and size ratchet you can think of. You will need them to get off the bolts (especially the bottom row and bracket).

If you cannot get the manifold off, chisel.

Prepare to be very frustrated.

Good luck!

NP... twisting a small hand/arms are usefull too... everyperson have a different sytle or tecnic on getting the jobs done... take your time and think...

[Tom1222]

I rather use brute strength and try not to think