![]() |
|
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bradenton, FL
Age: 27
Posts: 1,447
Andy
|
Brake parts storage methods?
Soooo.. I am aiming to purchase slotted rotors and new pads for my 07 si coupe. I want to hold on to my OEM rotors and pads, however, because they are in pretty darn good condition. Does anyone out there have a recommendation for how to store used brake equipment, rust-free (florida) for an extended period of time? As in, should I use something like WD40 to coat it all or pack it with silica packs in plastic or what?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Spanks.
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sac and the bay
Posts: 1,169
|
Brake pads just leave alone, they won't rust. Brake rotors might get a light surface coat of rust, yeah you could wd40 them if you want. I wouldn't worry though about storing brake parts. Basically leave them dry and alone and there's no problem.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Six eyes
![]() Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ontario
Age: 29
Posts: 4,882
Jason
|
Depending on the climate, they can. But it's not usually anything major, unless you're leaving them by the ocean for 10 years.
A quick surface coat of WD-40 or any light machine oil will do the trick though. Just be sure to use a good dose of brake cleaner if/when you get them out again (obviously).
__________________
I'm so JDM, my girlfriend is Japanese. 私はあまりにもJDMなので、私の彼女は日本人です。 |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: H-Town, TX
Posts: 775
Da KLEEN WUN!
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Six eyes
![]() Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ontario
Age: 29
Posts: 4,882
Jason
|
A lot of people go with Hawk HPS as a basic pad upgrade. Have a read on the link below... the be-all-and-end-all brakes thread
![]() Brake options
__________________
I'm so JDM, my girlfriend is Japanese. 私はあまりにもJDMなので、私の彼女は日本人です。 |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Oakville, ON
Posts: 100
|
Don't put anything on the pads, if you get oil on them, they're dead.
If you're upgrading the brakes you're very unlikely to go back (voice of experience - I cleared my garage out a while back and had 3 sets of disks from various cars I kept from upgrading "just in case") but if you do, mark them up 1 and 2 and the same on the pads (inside 1, outside 1 etc.) as they will all be worn differently so if you ever go back they mate up nicely to the disks. |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bradenton, FL
Age: 27
Posts: 1,447
Andy
|
Quote:
I like that idea. Though after reading that insane brake thread I don't think I'll spend the time to upgrade the brakes. maybe paints the calipers some day.. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL - Orange Park
Posts: 5,923
Artem
|
Quote:
X2 on the Hawk HPS street pads. They are a great upgrade over stock. They have more potential to handle heat. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL - Orange Park
Posts: 5,923
Artem
|
^anyone who gets drilled or slotted OEM size rotors is doing it for looks only. Removal of rotor material via drilling or slotting not only weakens the strength of the rotor but also lowers the overall mass of the rotor as a heat sink, basically making the brakes worse in a sense.
I track my Si and 80% of the actual race cars i see at the track use a blank rotor. Only the ones using a BBK have slotted/drilled rotors, but those are rotors that cost $600+ not $69 from autozone. |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bradenton, FL
Age: 27
Posts: 1,447
Andy
|
Quote:
^ Yeah what he said. I didn't know that at first. I might upgrade pads one day, but mine are almost new right now and I can't see any advantage (daily driver) to changing them. Spanks ya'll. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#16 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL - Orange Park
Posts: 5,923
Artem
|
I overheat the stock pads on the street. Doing a few back to back stops from 60mph - 0 is enough to toast the POS's.
I say you use them and get your money's worth (if the stock pads are fine for you and your driving style) then upgrade. |
|
|
|
|
|
#17 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Oakville, ON
Posts: 100
|
Quote:
) and plenty of track days (admittedly not in a Civic) and good quality blanks have always served me very well, the pad is the key component as long as your disks are decent quality.What's a good track day pad for a daily driver (I'm not swapping disks and pads to spend a day at the track). O/P - you're leaving them on now then?? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL - Orange Park
Posts: 5,923
Artem
|
^no such thing. I used Hawk HP+ pads for my track days (they are rated for street/track use but IMO, they're impossible to use on the street because of squealing and the fact that they will eat up the rotors)
Every street car that sees occasional track use requires the use of separate front rotors/pads. You should be able to get 4+ good track days off a set of pads and the rotors should be able to last a few season too. |
|
|
|
|
|
#20 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Dallas
Age: 27
Posts: 4,011
Cody
|
Quote:
When you're ready to use them again, just use brake cleaner to get the oil off. |
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| PARTS - Rear DISC Brake Conversion on DX / LX | Blktrax | Suspension and Brakes | 3 | 12-08-2011 01:45 AM |
| Any Tips/Methods on Getting Nightmares? | AdamLXCIV | Water Cooler | 42 | 03-26-2009 11:20 AM |
| Best products/methods to wash-polish-wax | cojaro | Detailing | 1 | 01-01-2007 05:32 PM |
| List your fuel saving methods | bung_goo | Civic SI | 29 | 10-31-2006 02:27 PM |