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Old 08-28-2009, 12:39 PM   #21 (permalink)
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great info 2point! will add to first post!
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:34 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeFromPA View Post
There are never any conclusions in an oil thread. This isn't because people argue....it's because THERE ARE NEVER ANY CONCLUSIONS applicable to all people in an oil thread.

Sushi - Might want to fix the link for AMSOIL 0w30.

All others:

Cliff notes: Use a quality synthetic and a good oil filter and change every 7500 miles or one year with complete confidence that the oil can go even longer.

Quality synthetics include, in no particular order:

1. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (probably the best value synthetic)
2. AMSOIL 0w30 (probably the highest quality/best/more expensive synthetic for this car when used with LONG OIL CHANGE INTERVALS, i.e. 10-15k or longer)
3. Redline 5w30
4. Mobil One (anything from 0w20-10w40, depending on application)
5. Valvoline Synpower
6. Quaker State Q-Power
...the list goes on

Quality Oil Filters:

1. OEM
2. Purolator PureOne
3. Wix
4. Napa Gold
5. Mobil One
6. Others (I won't include Fram in the list of quality oil filters, including modern Fram)

When you change your oil, use a new crush washer. Get the oil bolt snug, don't overtighten.

When you tighten your oil filter, tighten with your hand and get it nice and snug.

Now go drive it and stop freaking out over oil.

Joe
OEM is made by FRAM...
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:28 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I just got my oil changed today. When I took it in the oil life was at 50% but the oil was overdue for a change. my car has 47k on it. I bought it used so I have no idea what oil was being run before I got it. I decided to go with Mobil 1 synthetic. I noticed that my oil life meter was still 50%? will it eventually go back to being accurate?
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:32 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 07REGSI View Post
I just got my oil changed today. When I took it in the oil life was at 50% but the oil was overdue for a change. my car has 47k on it. I bought it used so I have no idea what oil was being run before I got it. I decided to go with Mobil 1 synthetic. I noticed that my oil life meter was still 50%? will it eventually go back to being accurate?
Oil life meter isn't a meter at all. It counts backwards as the miles rack up once you reset it. I think it's set for like 4500 miles every reset or something. It's stupid.
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2point View Post
Oil life meter isn't a meter at all. It counts backwards as the miles rack up once you reset it. I think it's set for like 4500 miles every reset or something. It's stupid.
haha aight thanks man I guess its dumb to even look at than
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Old 11-22-2009, 02:23 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Does anyone know if it will hurt my engine if i switch from synthetic to conventional or vice versa? I have a 2008 Civic Si w/ 21000 miles.
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Old 11-22-2009, 02:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
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lots of good links...thanks OP
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Old 11-22-2009, 02:33 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Your car will run so much better with sythetic.Stick with or switch to sythentic.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:51 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bossman View Post
Your car will run so much better with sythetic.Stick with or switch to sythentic.
So if i switch to synthetic can i switch back to conventional if i wanted to?
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:11 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by belizetj View Post
So if i switch to synthetic can i switch back to conventional if i wanted to?
IMO, stay with Synthetic just b/c.. . The car does not come with synthetic from the factory and they recommend 4500 mile oil change intervals I believe. You can switch back if you want. Actually, if you get your oil changed at the dealer, if you didn’t request synthetic, you probably didn’t get it.. .

to offset the high cost of synthetic, consider a few things here.. . Facts

1.)Walmart, 98% of the time, has the best price (especially when on sale) for Mobil One 5 quart jugs. 0W-30 to 10W-30 is commonly found. I don’t think I’ve ever seen 5 quarts of M1 go for more than $26 at Walmart. Often you can get them for $20 to 22.

2.)You can run synthetics for longer drain intervals. 4500 is easy.. . anything less than 4,000 on syn is a waste unless you do driving events on road course tracks or have Force Induced your car and are running really rich. I change mine every 4 to 4500. If you don’t race and do highway miles and don’t beat on your car a lot, 6K is easy, 8K with a good oil filter.

3.)If you buy a good mobil one syn oil filter, you can go 8000 miles on that baby. 2 oil changes and reduce the oil change time and hassel. There are other filters you can do this on as well but I wont go into detail here.

4.)If the oil is black, don’t fret, black oil doesn’t mean your oil isn’t still good. Research this on your own but here’s a hint, start here Welcome

5.)If you have a crappy, aftermarket air filter on a stick (non-OEM) don’t do long intervals as MOST setups will get more dirt into the intake track. At most I’d do 4500 on any oil, especially in dusty regions.

6.) regardless of what people have done with B series motors, K series were developed to run better, be more fuel efficient and have larger oil capacity so running longer intervals is even easier. If it wasn't for the crappy gear box setup, the K20 would be the best 4 bagger (non turbo'd motor) on earth. end rant

7.)Changing oil yourself saves money and is fun, relaxing and you know the job was done right with the right oil
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:06 PM   #31 (permalink)
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technically the K20 IS the best N/A four banger on earth(IMO) but it's stuck with a less than stellar gearbox,the engine is'nt rated by the transmission it's connected to.
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:32 PM   #32 (permalink)
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oh yeah, the motor was bread to be the best and I know the gearbox shouldn't be a measure of motor success but it gets thrown in the pot all too much when people talk cars. That and shear HP lol!
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Old 11-23-2009, 02:52 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point View Post
IMO, stay with Synthetic just b/c.. . The car does not come with synthetic from the factory and they recommend 4500 mile oil change intervals I believe. You can switch back if you want. Actually, if you get your oil changed at the dealer, if you didn’t request synthetic, you probably didn’t get it.. .

to offset the high cost of synthetic, consider a few things here.. . Facts

1.)Walmart, 98% of the time, has the best price (especially when on sale) for Mobil One 5 quart jugs. 0W-30 to 10W-30 is commonly found. I don’t think I’ve ever seen 5 quarts of M1 go for more than $26 at Walmart. Often you can get them for $20 to 22.

2.)You can run synthetics for longer drain intervals. 4500 is easy.. . anything less than 4,000 on syn is a waste unless you do driving events on road course tracks or have Force Induced your car and are running really rich. I change mine every 4 to 4500. If you don’t race and do highway miles and don’t beat on your car a lot, 6K is easy, 8K with a good oil filter.

3.)If you buy a good mobil one syn oil filter, you can go 8000 miles on that baby. 2 oil changes and reduce the oil change time and hassel. There are other filters you can do this on as well but I wont go into detail here.

4.)If the oil is black, don’t fret, black oil doesn’t mean your oil isn’t still good. Research this on your own but here’s a hint, start here Welcome

5.)If you have a crappy, aftermarket air filter on a stick (non-OEM) don’t do long intervals as MOST setups will get more dirt into the intake track. At most I’d do 4500 on any oil, especially in dusty regions.

6.) regardless of what people have done with B series motors, K series were developed to run better, be more fuel efficient and have larger oil capacity so running longer intervals is even easier. If it wasn't for the crappy gear box setup, the K20 would be the best 4 bagger (non turbo'd motor) on earth. end rant

7.)Changing oil yourself saves money and is fun, relaxing and you know the job was done right with the right oil
Thanks for the facts. Here is what i did. Washed my car, went to walmart, bought Castrol syntec 5W-30, imma take a shower, then im gonna get my oil changed at the honda dealership. Should i stop and buy a k&n oil filter before i get there? or should i go with the oem filter?
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Old 11-23-2009, 02:56 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point View Post
IMO, stay with Synthetic just b/c.. . The car does not come with synthetic from the factory and they recommend 4500 mile oil change intervals I believe. You can switch back if you want. Actually, if you get your oil changed at the dealer, if you didn’t request synthetic, you probably didn’t get it.. .

to offset the high cost of synthetic, consider a few things here.. . Facts

1.)Walmart, 98% of the time, has the best price (especially when on sale) for Mobil One 5 quart jugs. 0W-30 to 10W-30 is commonly found. I don’t think I’ve ever seen 5 quarts of M1 go for more than $26 at Walmart. Often you can get them for $20 to 22.

2.)You can run synthetics for longer drain intervals. 4500 is easy.. . anything less than 4,000 on syn is a waste unless you do driving events on road course tracks or have Force Induced your car and are running really rich. I change mine every 4 to 4500. If you don’t race and do highway miles and don’t beat on your car a lot, 6K is easy, 8K with a good oil filter.

3.)If you buy a good mobil one syn oil filter, you can go 8000 miles on that baby. 2 oil changes and reduce the oil change time and hassel. There are other filters you can do this on as well but I wont go into detail here.

4.)If the oil is black, don’t fret, black oil doesn’t mean your oil isn’t still good. Research this on your own but here’s a hint, start here Welcome

5.)If you have a crappy, aftermarket air filter on a stick (non-OEM) don’t do long intervals as MOST setups will get more dirt into the intake track. At most I’d do 4500 on any oil, especially in dusty regions.

6.) regardless of what people have done with B series motors, K series were developed to run better, be more fuel efficient and have larger oil capacity so running longer intervals is even easier. If it wasn't for the crappy gear box setup, the K20 would be the best 4 bagger (non turbo'd motor) on earth. end rant

7.)Changing oil yourself saves money and is fun, relaxing and you know the job was done right with the right oil
The reason why i wanted to know if i can change back to conventional is because the car is going to a different country and idk if they have synthetic oil.
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Old 11-23-2009, 03:01 PM   #35 (permalink)
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ha, well regardless of where the car is going, I think you will find mobil one or castrol products just about everywhere. they make WAY more than just motor oil but that's mainly what they are known for.

K&N and Mobil One synthetic oil filter is basically the same filter and same material in the inside BUT the K&N material was made to flow better. IMO, just have the Dealer put on a OEM one. You are already making them use a different oil which may or may not actually find it into your car depending on how the techs like to do things lol!
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Old 11-23-2009, 03:39 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2point View Post
ha, well regardless of where the car is going, I think you will find mobil one or castrol products just about everywhere. they make WAY more than just motor oil but that's mainly what they are known for.

K&N and Mobil One synthetic oil filter is basically the same filter and same material in the inside BUT the K&N material was made to flow better. IMO, just have the Dealer put on a OEM one. You are already making them use a different oil which may or may not actually find it into your car depending on how the techs like to do things lol!
Well they are used to it. 2 oil changes after i bought my car and i had a k&n air filter, when i last changed my oil i had illigal tint, Now i have a skunk2 exhaust installed by the toyota dealer (hope they wont void my warranty). Next ill have a sri which ill also get installed at the toyota dealer.
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:38 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2point View Post
ha, well regardless of where the car is going, I think you will find mobil one or castrol products just about everywhere. they make WAY more than just motor oil but that's mainly what they are known for.

K&N and Mobil One synthetic oil filter is basically the same filter and same material in the inside BUT the K&N material was made to flow better. IMO, just have the Dealer put on a OEM one. You are already making them use a different oil which may or may not actually find it into your car depending on how the techs like to do things lol!
Yeah they have Casrol in where the car is going (Belize), but idk if they have mobil1 or any synthetic. I changed with Casrol Syntec and the Honda filter.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:05 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I always go with an AMSOIL filter and AMSOIL oil.. My last experience was with Mobil 1, and it just didn't cut it for me.. I like to be a little too close to the redline. I just order it from GTA Synthetics and wait out my 2/3 days or so till it shows up..

I haven't tried the brake fluid though, I am partial to ATE Super Blue.. however it is a bit of an overkill for a civic..
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:24 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I haven't tried the brake fluid though, I am partial to ATE Super Blue.. however it is a bit of an overkill for a civic..
that makes no sense at all. Anyone that tracks their car and values their life uses racing quality brake fluid. ATE super blue is one that you can use for DD and track at minimal cost of quality.
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:54 PM   #40 (permalink)
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good info here. im due for a change and this will be my first. planning on 5w-20 mobile one from walmart...and mobile one or KandN filter. input?
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