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#161 (permalink) | |
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well, you know, the first time i did it i mounted the resistor on the side of the chassis facing the engine. that didn't work because it kinda melted that long black plastic piece that goes over the hood latch and car chassis. that's when i switched it to the underside and it's been fine ever since... |
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#167 (permalink) |
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Member
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Possible Thread Jack Alert!!!
If you hate having the DRL's on like myself. 2006+ Honda Civic. Simply remove fuse #37 (7.5A) from the INTERIOR fuse box (under the far left side of the dash). Goodbye DRLs. Absolutely NO after-effects (i.e. - idiot lights, etc.). Clean and simple! As quoted from Association of Drivers Against Daytime Running Lights |
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#168 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#173 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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I am sure there can be a better option than having to run power wires, switches and resistors. Does anybody have the factory wiring diagram? Seams like we should be able to tap into, splice together, or just unhook a factory wire pin out....?? I know that on my old VW Golf. We would just use a jumper wire and install second bulbs to have rear foglights work as extra brake lights. Simple and clean. |
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#174 (permalink) | ||
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Senior Member
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#178 (permalink) |
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I´m sorry guys.. I cannot understand how to get my position light yellow.
Like the picture below... ![]() I want them to stay yellow even when they are off! Sorry if this post sounds stupid to you, but here in Argentina nobody knows how to do it!! Thank u anyways |
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