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#22 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I looked around for the prices at Auto Zone and O'rellys
Materials: crimpers/wire cutters - already have male and female connectors - $3 a box fuse - $3 a box switch - $4 for a nice discrete looking one 1.2 Ohm resister - I couldn't find, they told me to go to Radio Shack, which I was too tired to go. Just one question though electrical wire - What gage am I suppose to use? I really wanted to do it last night, but then I started thinking about all the poking and prodding and fishing I gotta do to run the wires around... I kinda gave up, haha. *edit.. oops, i meant 1.2 ohm resister Last edited by RiceBowL54; 08-24-2007 at 01:51 AM. |
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#23 (permalink) |
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^ i think i used 12 gauge but im not sure. pretty much just get the same size wire that the high beams use and youll be good. also, dont go to radioshack. all they have are little dink resistors that will crack themselves apart. if you go to oriellys again and tell them you need a resistor to knock down voltage from the battery and tell them to look in their big catalog they have it should be in there. they told me first that they didnt have them then i went in again and told a different person what i needed and they gave me this one. it didnt crack apart like the radioshack one did and its just alot beefier....also its a 1.2 ohm resistor 1.5 might make the lights too dim
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#26 (permalink) |
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LOL... i read "yall" and I was thinking, man, you gotta be from Texas.
So I just noticed you're from Katy... I'm from Sugar Land, haha. I try not to say "yall" too much, haha. Oh, and I asked this before: How would I wire it so I can have DRL at full power (high beam). I know I can do this by turning on the lights then highbeam, but I wanna try highbeam without lowbeam. Last edited by RiceBowL54; 08-24-2007 at 03:37 AM. |
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#29 (permalink) | |
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Mortal Kombat: it's back!
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: DiRtY JerZ
Age: 25
Posts: 15,483
The original --> "J" <--
iTrader: 5 / 100%
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Repped....gotta be honest. Way to lazy to f with the wires...cuz electrical aint my thing. . . BUt id love to do this. If u wanna make a trip to NJ let me know
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J's 8th Civic Quote of the Week Quote:
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#32 (permalink) |
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So... had the day off today and said... ehh might as well try this.... everything is all dandy all the connections are made the right way and when i turn it all on, all i see are the main feed wire from the battery to the switch start to melt itself and smoke.... i am pretty sure this happen because i used some shitty 18 awg wire i had laying around the house... looks like i am gonna buy some other wire tomorrow and redo everything... should be easier the second time around.
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#35 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#38 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#39 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I used a 30 AMP LED switch and used a 30A fuse with 12 gauge wires. It was hard to find a resistor anywhere else so I went to RadioShack and tried a wirewound 1.0 ohm block resistor because that was the closest I could find. I did exactly like you mentioned and once I tapped into the white wire on the right headlight high beam harness, tested it and it blew the fuse inside instead. The resistor did start to get warm as you mentioned so I knew for a fact there was circuit going through but the LED light on the switch didn't seem to light up. I even tried putting a 7.5 fuse in there and got nothing. Grounded it and tried thinking why it wasn't working then just gave up. I had other plans for the day and it was too hot to be working outside. |
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