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LinkBack (3) | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#122 (permalink) |
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Member
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I'm using these from superbrightleds.com for my License plate and trunk....
WLED-WHP LED Wedge Base Bulbs ![]() High Power - Pure White 194/168 wedge base bulb This bulb has 1 High Power LED which is about as bright as the 6-LED bulb seen above At 4500K, the Color Temperature is between Warm White and Cool White The License plate looks really nice!! But for the trunk I will be looking for a different type of bulb. |
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#125 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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I am considering adding more light to the trunk of my 08 LX sedan. I came up with this possibility. I intend to mount a 12" LCD light bar using two sided tape right behind the existing light fixture.
I want to keep things as simple as possible, I don't want to use a cold cathode tube since it requires a transformer and adding more clutter. The LCD can be wired direct to the existing switch. From what I could see I discovered the trunk light does not operate on a mercury switch, the only time it will shut off is when you close the trunk. Within the locking assembly, when the trunk is closed it breaks the negative wire going to the light, the light has a constant hot on in it. Doing the littlest damage possible my intentions are to solder two wires directly to the switch and snake them in to the existing short harness to the LCD light bar for a nice clean install. If you remove your trunk light you will see two exposed brass bars one is hot, the other a ground. I want to solder in two small male terminals to these bars, then connect the two female connectors wires going to the LED bar. I suppose I could just solder the wires to the bars but I’d like something a little stronger. In theory this setup should work using the existing wire with no damage due to splices. If down the road you're not happy, simply unsolder the two terminals from the switch, pull out the wires, and remove the bar and you'll be back to original factory setup. For those not having soldering irons, if you use two T-taps into the existing wire should work, but you will have to remove the short piece of wire loom to get at the wires, and more than likely leave it off once the tap has been made. Two problems I am having, I can't seem to locate a 12" led bar that is rigid and comes with two sided tape. I did a google search as well as superbrightleds.com and unable to find a suitable bar. The second problem is the male terminals that will need to be soldered. I would need a terminal configured with a 90 degree material. One part of the terminal flat that I could solder to the switch, the other portion of it shaped that it will accept a small female terminal. Any opinions on this setup are welcome as well as suggestions of what bar to use and how or where to get the terminals needed for the connection to the LCD light bar. |
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#128 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
BUT u obviously missed that im in the middle of a DIY 3W led setup, which will throw out 95 lumens into the already there reflector, no soldering on your car... meaning ur warranty will still be intact!!!! As for the flank leds, warden sells 1W NONPOLAR ones... problem is my package got lost and hes being a dick to me about it im waiting another week to see if i get them then im filing a claim if ne other people have had problems with him please let me know Now ive received my 3W blue (35 lumens) and my 3W white led (95 lumens) as my test subjects for a custom festoon bulb and trunk light, but i got the wrong resistors!!!! for 12-13volt operation u need a 12 or 15 ohm resistor (go with the 15 for safer operation) but i dont know wat wattage resistor i need yet, i gotta go back to my alternator to find that out (if someone knows private message me and ill go about picking it up at radio shack and finishing the DIY) the 3W led will provide more lumens than the light bar and will use the stock reflector, for good light distribution!! |
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#131 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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quick update, seams if i went with just a resistor, it would be bigger than the festooon bulb itself
so instead im gonna use a driver, a much smaller resistor, and something to attach it all too.... hope to god it fits in the small as space...... this project has become a nightmare llol |
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#134 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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lol, i did the same thing...
I went to my dealer and told them it broke on its own and was just dangling there when I opened my trunk one day.... they replaced it for free cause the warranty covered it. you can probably order it on Majestic Honda - New and Used Cars - Civic Accord Element West Warwick, RI, go to their auto parts online catalogue, it might be under the trunk lid section... it has it all disected into individual parts... but you would prolly pay double just cause of shipping.. just go to your dealer and have them order a new part for you or just do what i did. SHHH DONT TELL >_< |
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#139 (permalink) |
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Member
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man finally installed
![]() but those little suckers really make me break a sweat.... if you got big chubby or even regular size men fingers.... good luck if you r tryin for this mod, stick your index finger in the tiny gap between the housing and the blub and thumb in the front opening of housing, and then PULL, wiggle a little and PULL... this i found most efficient i broke both of my housing tryin to install this thing, i only have 1 security click thingy now on both housing, but it hangs fine so i wont bother to get new ones LOL!!!!! ![]() |
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LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/lighting/51037-diy-license-plate-led-replacement-trunk-light-led-replacement.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Lighting [Archive] - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 02-15-2008 11:34 AM | |
| DIY/install index - LOOK HERE BEFORE ASKING FOR A DIY - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 01-23-2008 11:45 AM | |
| DIY/install index - LOOK HERE BEFORE ASKING FOR A DIY - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | ||||