DIY: DRL's & Low Beams (No Switch)

[xIxAMxHOLLYWOODx]

DISCLAIMER: You perform this mod at your own risk! You assume sole responsibility of execution and outcome of this mod. I will not be held responsible if something goes wrong. AKA If you just so happen to burn your **** to the ground, it’s all on you.

But if you follow these directions, you should do just fine!

This DIY will explain how to hookup your DRL’s to stay on with your low beams WITHOUT running a switch in the cab.


What you’ll need:

1. One 4 prong relay
2. One 1.2 ohm resistor
3. One 30 amp max fuse holder
4. 7.5 amp fuse
5. Length of assorted color 14-16 guage wire
6. Female connectors (blue)
7. T-Tap wire connectors
8. Two “Eye hole” connectors
9. Shrink Wrap


I have read through the first DRL post and noticed that most people like the way this mod looks but they don't want to hassle with running wires for a switch into the cab. They just want the DRL's to be on with the low beams when the headlights are switched on.

The way I have this drawn up allows for the DRL's to be on like normal when the headlights are switched to "off" at the headlight switch and also keep them on along with the lowbeams when the headlight switch is turned to "on".

I'm not sure about changing to different resistors to get different colors from the DRL's or any of that jazz.

I'm using a relay in this setup. A relay is basically an automatic switch. Each 4 prong relay has a 12v constant(30), ground(85), trigger(86) and output(87) prong. What the relay does is connect the 12v constant(30) prong to the output(87) prong when current is introduced to the trigger(86) prong.

So what we are doing here is essence is using a splice from the low beams and using that as a trigger for the DRL's. That way we avoid accidentally leaving the DRL's on when we turn the car off. The trigger from the low beams will then activate the relay and send current to the DRL's.

Sorry for the lengthy explanation, I know pictures will help a lot of you in understanding what I'm talking about. So without further a due…

First is a crappy, yet simple wiring diagram. Kind of gives you an idea of what we’re trying to accomplish when it’s all said and done.




1. We want to start by disconnecting and removing the battery. (Remove negative side first then the positive)






2. Remove the clear reservoir (simply give it a little tug in the upward direction)




3. You will want to tap three wires with your T-Tap connectors.

The T-Tap connectors come in a package that looks something like this:



The T-Tap will look like this:



You will want to tap the driver’s side low beam connector first. It is a purple wire. Fold the T-Tap in half around the purple wire. It should look like this when you are done. (You might need to use pliers to get the T-Tap to click shut)



Then tap the driver’s side DRL (pink wire). It should look like this:



Then tap the passenger side DRL (white wire). It should look like this:




4. You will want to find a 12v constant source. Most people connect straight to the battery. I think that looks like crap. I chose to connect mine to one of the main terminals on the fuse block in the engine compartment.

One of these two big copper tabs should do!



I removed the screw and cut a slot for my wire to come out.



I didn’t take a picture of this next part, but if you want to copy the way I did it exactly, you will want to connect an “eye hole” connector to one end of your fuse holder and then install it on top of the copper tab. Then put the screw back in and tighten it down. For reference, your fuse holder probably looks something like this:




5. Now it’s time to find a mounting spot for the relay. You want it to stay dry and stationary.

There’s a bolt that hold the cross member right under here:



That’s where I chose to mount mine!

Take the bolt out and sand down to the metal (this is where we will connect our ground):






6. Now we can finally run some wire! (This is where the assorted colors of wire come in handy)

Your T-Taps should have come with come covered male connectors. Hook all three of the T-Taps individually to enough wire that all 3 runs will make it to where you will be mounting your relay. The T-Taps should look like this with the male connectors and wire hooked up:




7. Now comes the important part. Wiring the relay. Pay attention. Use the above wiring diagram if you have any questions.

First, make sure you wrap all your male connections in shrink wrap to avoid a short somewhere down the line. They should look like this:

No shrink wrap:



Shrink wrapped:



Shrink wrap comes in a package like this:



You use a lighter to get it to shrink around your connections.

Your relay should look like this:





Now the wire coming from the low beam splice (the purple wire) needs to go to the 86 prong on your relay. The wire coming from your fused 12v constant needs to go to the 30 prong. Both splices from the DRL’s (white and pink wires) need to run to the 87 prong. The 85 prong is the ground, connect a short piece of wire with an “eye hole” connector at the end. The ground wire needs to only be long enough to wrap up to the mounting hole.

It should look like this:




8. I forgot to take a picture of the resistor, but it needs to be run inline to the DRL’s. Without the resistor the high beams will be on with the low beams all the time. I’ll try and snap a quick pic of the resistor to give a visual for this step.



9. Put the battery back in, connect the positive first and then the negative. Everything should clear fine and look like this when you are finished:




I don’t have action shots yet, I had to run a bunch of errands. I tested everything. It all works fine. DRL’s, low and high beams. Let me know what you guys think! Post pics when you’re done!

[Shaggs2Dope]

Nice DIY, can't wait to see some pics of it on.

[bunz559]

great write up man. i do not plan on doing this, but it is an excellent write up.

[Ga bb4]

Can you tell me where you got your resistor? Or get a pic of it? Cuz that's the part I'm stuck on

[obert]

Great job

[B1inky]

Post pics of the final product.

[xIxAMxHOLLYWOODx]

Sorry for the delay on the pics guys! I work Wed-Sun. So I dont have a whole bunch of time. I will try and get a picture of the resistor in the package as well as wired in line. I will also post pics of final product asap!

[Willyo224]

[Pie]

Any further details about this installation? I'm eager to attempt it, but am unsure as to how the resistor looks, or where I could obtain it...

[tgeo]

^^^^^^
Please post some pics.

Cheers

[Pie]

Still no updates on this? I think I may just have to have a go at it myself then!

[mhyatt0302]

I did this today and had no trouble at all. I went to my local Oriely's and picked up the RU12 resistor. Worked like a charm.

[Willyo224]

in for Pixors

[BRIANxJDM]

wheres the finish product at!

[mhyatt0302]

Haha let me get moving this morning and I'll grab some pics for you. You will have to wait for night pics.

[mhyatt0302]

Pic of the Resistor:


Pic of the DRL on w/ Low Beam:


I'll get some better pics of it tonight. These were taken with my phone.

[mhyatt0302]

Here are pics w/ 8k HID's:

[Siem Reap]

Nice DIY, you should put a disclaimer about if the person has fog lights to make sure that they are NOT on with this DIY. Only because it's illegal to run with 6 lights on...

[07k20z3ftw]

Originally Posted by Siem Reap

Nice DIY, you should put a disclaimer about if the person has fog lights to make sure that they are NOT on with this DIY. Only because it's illegal to run with 6 lights on...

only illegal if someone catches u

[xIxAMxHOLLYWOODx]

Thanks for posting pics mhyatt0302. Im sorry I was never able to. I ended up selling my sedan before I could snap any final pics! But I'm glad someone else was able to complete it and everything worked out fine! Let me know if anyone else has any questions...