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#22 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 143
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Did no one in all of your travels put a volt meter on the wire at the back of the relay and perhaps also at the ballasts to confirm that the +voltage is getting through?
I may be missing something but if your saying that the positive wire goes through the first ballast to the 2nd that to me doesn't sound right. I think that you're jumpering from the positive on 1 ballast to the positive on the 2nd so in effect both are connected to the positive terminal of the relay (even though you don't have 2 individual connections back to the relay. So, to me the ckt is open somewhere, you just can't tell yet if it's on + or - side. You can eliminate the negative being open by bolting a wire from 1 of the ballasts directly to chassis metal ground (If any of the ballasts are bolted directly to chassis metal to metal then this test isn't needed). This would make up for an open connection on the negative (ground) side of your installation and the lights would ignite. If you're suspecting that one of the ballasts is shorted out causing both to not ignite then disconnect 1 at a time. I don't think this would be the issue as your in line fuse would pop but perhaps if there is a short the relay is protecting the inline fuse from blowing but I really don't think this would be the case. Last edited by trehouse; 02-15-2009 at 12:17 AM. |
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#24 (permalink) |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,557
Mike
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Yep, it was the smaller 25 amp fuse in the relay, me and the Advanced Auto Parts guy missed it completely the first time. It's not designed for outdoor use so we put a new one in, filled it with silicone, then wrapped it up with electrical tape.
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