what size fuse is in there? Should be a 15 or 20 amp fuse. If a 15 put a 20 in perhaps but that's your call. I wouldn't go higher then that. I'd check to see if you have the connector from your stock harness backwards. Remember that purple, green and red are + from what I've seen in my working on my car. (I have a 2009 Sedan) Yours could be different but that's what I have.
A fuse is there to protect your circuit. If its popping it like popcorn, then your ballasts are drawing too much amperage. Don't change the fuse or your circuit will go buh bye as there is no tolerance that will protect it anymore.
After looking closer the fuses, theres a 10a fuse for each low beam and a 20A low beam Main fuse. So, that's what I have and I also woudnt go any higher then what's they have originally. If you;ve ever changed these before Id check to make sure that you have your original valued fuses in there and not go above that as S indicates above.
I don't know what to tell you other then I'm makin sure that we're not talking about DRL's or something not so typical as the surge current to a ballast would be much higher there.
I'm gonna leave it to the real experts here as I must be missing something.
Fatdsm, just thinking this through a bit, you're blowing both side fuses...Seems odd that 2 ballasts are bad but I guess Striker is thinking it's a bad batch.
I don't know if a bad connection could cause a surge in current such as connectors not fully seated and if there were flickering.
All of you responders, your troubleshooting skills suck!
No one asked the obvious question: Do you have a 35 or 50 watt kit? HuH?¿
Now once you have that info you can then troubleshoot.
If it is a 50 watt kit, then does it have a relay harness? If not, then install one. Problem fixed, excessive current draw on lighting circuit.
If it is a 35 watt kit? Are the leg fuses are the correct size? then the issue could be bad ballast or intermittent short to ground of the power legs of the lighting circuit. Replace or Repair as necessary.
Ya know, I think i'd spend the bucks to return the kit and have them ship you a new one. I don't know if you have to pay for the return shipment to you and if so I realize that really blows. At least get the kit as the source of a problem (or not) out of the way. It's probably the kit.
If you want to really get into it, take some photos of your harnesses and ballast connections and post em for the experts here to review. It's been done before.
I don't know how you could test the ballasts other then your car's connections. Perhaps others here can help. Your old lightbulbs worked so it's not the wiring system (they use more juice then your HID's use except of course when they're igniting when you first turn em up).
The ballasts are drawing too many amps, end of discussion.
Tell that to the guy who sold you and ask for a refund or a replacement.
Even with a relay, it'd probably pop the fuse in the relay harness. I had this happened to me before with an aftermarket ballast. i got a replacement but that same that replaced my faulty one died in 10 months. And now, i get no response from my seller haha oh well
i just installed hit kit in my car after installing the hid kit i turned it on and only one bulb worked. then i looked at the bulbs the one that didnt work was all cloudy n dark in the middle, the one that does work is clear. can someone help me please??
i just installed hit kit in my car after installing the hid kit i turned it on and only one bulb worked. then i looked at the bulbs the one that didnt work was all cloudy n dark in the middle, the one that does work is clear. can someone help me please??
cloudy and dark means the bulb is pretty old.
Your bulb is bad
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