How to Introduce Yourself to Your New Civic

[KingMarineM16a4]

Originally Posted by NOVAblackSiSedan

Why is everyone so gung ho to completely disregard dealer recommended break in instructions? Is there any evidence in the original post that indicates this process actually works, aside from the fact that this information also exists on some other websites? The engine has already been "introduced to vtec" back at the factory, no? What the hell is this guy talking about

I don't think they hit v-tec at the factory dyno, they just get it up to speed at about 80-85 mph but again I don't work at Honda so that is just an educated guess.

Everyone wants to do it different because 400-500 miles with no V-tec is hard, and unessicary in my opinion. Secondly, it's only theory, an educated one, but still a theory. But theory's do work, for example.

• You have a 2 and a 4 ohm resistor in a parallel circuit of 12 volts. That means you have 9 total amps and 1.33333 total ohms of resistance. So how the hell did 6 ohms turn into 1.33333, it just does

, again like we say at LTI, "Don't fight the theory."

That's just an example.

[bizzybearfigiblue]

^^just confused the hell out of me with that ohms theory thing...

[e60.deluxe]

Originally Posted by bizzybearfigiblue

sorry for the long post...


we actually dyno'd a car the other day with the A/C on and it actually doesn't take that much hp away from the engine... in fact the peak hp was the same... the only noticeable difference was the peak tq was down about 10ft lbs.....

so peak torque is down to 125lb-ft from 135lb-ft, but torque at peak HP is the same? doesnt make sense to me.

especially since peak Tq happens right after Vtec, it would mean that it drops for 125 to only about 122-123 from ~6000-8000RPM... very odd.

[bizzybearfigiblue]

Originally Posted by e60.deluxe

so peak torque is down to 125lb-ft from 135lb-ft, but torque at peak HP is the same? doesnt make sense to me.

especially since peak Tq happens right after Vtec, it would mean that it drops for 125 to only about 122-123 from ~6000-8000RPM... very odd.

the hp numbers are slightly lower throughout the powerband... but peak is the same...

as for the tq... the tq is the same as the hp... but it actually affects the peak as well

[KingMarineM16a4]

Originally Posted by bizzybearfigiblue

^^just confused the hell out of me with that ohms theory thing...

And those are the correct numbers, it was a point to prove to not fight the theory.

[HondaScott]

Originally Posted by KingMarineM16a4

I don't think they hit v-tec at the factory dyno, they just get it up to speed at about 80-85 mph but again I don't work at Honda so that is just an educated guess.

Everyone wants to do it different because 400-500 miles with no V-tec is hard, and unessicary in my opinion. Secondly, it's only theory, an educated one, but still a theory. But theory's do work, for example.[list][*]You have a 2 and a 4 ohm resistor in a parallel circuit of 12 volts. That means you have 9 total amps and 1.33333 total ohms of resistance. So how the hell did 6 ohms turn into 1.33333, it just does, again like we say at LTI, "Don't fight the theory."

That's just an example.

Umm... by theory you mean Ohm's LAW . And it makes total sense that if you give the electricity more paths to travel the overall resistance will drop. Anyway, what does a scientific LAW have to do with breaking in an engine?

[SnowyHessh]

The left digital gauge is a thermostat for coolant temperature. Engine oil warms up to operating temperature after DRIVING 5 to 10 miles, depending on ambient temperature. This can be seen on any vehicle with both a coolant and oil temperature gauge on the dashboard, such as a Porsche 911.

Originally Posted by achapman

They say that becuase thats what the manual suggests. However the manual suggests that so you don't do burnouts out of the dealer parking lot after picking up the car, or try to race everyone and get in a wreck then try to sue the dealer.

You should basically run the piss out of the car for the 1st 20 miles. You should not even start the car until you are ready to drive 20 hard miles. YOU MUST LET THE ENGINE WARM UP ALL THE WAY. This means so the timp gauge is in the middle! What you are doing is seating the piston rings so they seal better and hold compression (obviously). Then change the oil. I then vary the rpms until 150 miles and change the oil again. Same thing again at 600 miles and change the oil. Then same thing util 1500 miles then change to Full syn.

Again this is my method and of course this topic is highly debatable with everyones biased opinions.

[Powered by Honda]

What about Honda saying special break in oil wait for 10,000km for first oil change?

[KingMarineM16a4]

Originally Posted by Powered by Honda

What about Honda saying special break in oil wait for 10,000km for first oil change?

I'd still change it, there is going to be stuff floating around there regardless. And if they just put thicker oil in there to kind of cover it up then that is going to make your engine run sluggish.

[Powered by Honda]

Originally Posted by HondaScott

Well, this is going to seem like a flame, but I am tired of the blind leading the blind.

These are KingMarineM16a4's OPINIONS, and they happen to completely contradict my opinions.

#1 revving an engine with no load is asking for trouble
#2 changing your oil right away and too often gets rid of too much friction, which does not allow your engine to properly "wear in."
#3 you should NOT hold the engine at a specific rpm on purpose

I would like to see some proof that what I am saying is wrong, and what KingMarineM16a4 has said is correct, because his method seems so arbitrary and ridiculous.

Agreed with all points.

[Powered by Honda]

Originally Posted by KingMarineM16a4

I'd still change it, there is going to be stuff floating around there regardless. And if they just put thicker oil in there to kind of cover it up then that is going to make your engine run sluggish.

That makes sense but I'm really scared to go against what Honda says.

[Fenway]

Honda has been in this business for a while. So if I decide to buy a SI Sedan I'm going to follow their instructions. From what I have read on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com I wouldn't go changing that Honda factory fill before they suggest you do. It's a waste of money and might do more harm than good.

[KingMarineM16a4]

Originally Posted by Powered by Honda

That makes sense but I'm really scared to go against what Honda says.

Thinner oil will ALWAYS lubricate better.

[HondaScott]

How do you figure?

[KingMarineM16a4]

Originally Posted by HondaScott

How do you figure?

I don't figure I know. Notice how over the years the oil "required" for "sport cars" has gotten less and less in "weight"(winter), less thickness. Most gear oil or transmission oil is what? 80w90 or something like that? Well in transmissions we are told that we can even use 10w30 or more thinner oil in our gear oil because it will lub better, and is lighter. Thicker oil can cause hard shifting. Remember this book is based on our ASE's, it's not wrong.

[HondaScott]

Originally Posted by KingMarineM16a4

I don't figure I know. Notice how over the years the oil "required" for "sport cars" has gotten less and less in "weight"(winter), less thickness. Most gear oil or transmission oil is what? 80w90 or something like that? Well in transmissions we are told that we can even use 10w30 or more thinner oil in our gear oil because it will lub better, and is lighter. Thicker oil can cause hard shifting. Remember this book is based on our ASE's, it's not wrong.

I think the trend towards lighter oils has more to do with improved engine manufacturing techniques. Modern engines have tighter bearing clearances, and thus can be run with a thinner oil without worry of a weak oil film strength in the bearings.

With what book are you getting this information. It is impossible to say that "
Thinner oil will ALWAYS lubricate better." Different engines run at different temperatures/RPM's/with different clearances. What will provide the best lubrication of one engine is not always be the same for another.

[KingMarineM16a4]

Ok, in most cases thinner oil lubercates better.

Originally Posted by Fenway

Honda has been in this business for a while. So if I decide to buy a SI Sedan I'm going to follow their instructions. From what I have read on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com I wouldn't go changing that Honda factory fill before they suggest you do. It's a waste of money and might do more harm than good.

But what Honda says and what their engineers say could be completly different...

Discussion: Engineers vs Sales Marketing

[avicarmi]

Now you got me worried...

I took delivery at 65 miles (the dealer delivered it to my place of work, 30+ miles away)

I now have almost 400 miles on it (in two days...) mostly highway @75mph,

so far I driven it very gently, mostly 2-3K RPM, never got over 5K RPM.

what is the best thing to do now???

is it too late to do anything now?

thanks,

-avi

[KingMarineM16a4]

Originally Posted by avicarmi

Now you got me worried...

I took delivery at 65 miles (the dealer delivered it to my place of work, 30+ miles away)

I now have almost 400 miles on it (in two days...) mostly highway @75mph,

so far I driven it very gently, mostly 2-3K RPM, never got over 5K RPM.

what is the best thing to do now???

is it too late to do anything now?

thanks,

-avi

You had better hope that they didn't drive it like they stole it all the way to your work...

I just put down a deposit on mine and when it comes in I am going to take off work AND school to watch it come off the truck, etc.

Back to your comment. Even if your work was exactly 40 miles away, where did the other 20ish miles come from? You're good to drive it like you want, but I would change the oil first, again you don't know what they did while driving it over there.

[Vince]

Originally Posted by avicarmi

Now you got me worried...

I took delivery at 65 miles (the dealer delivered it to my place of work, 30+ miles away)

I now have almost 400 miles on it (in two days...) mostly highway @75mph,

so far I driven it very gently, mostly 2-3K RPM, never got over 5K RPM.

what is the best thing to do now???

is it too late to do anything now?

thanks,

-avi

You're just fine...keep driving your car and relax about all this break-in non-sense; it's all conjecture and personal opinion.