DIY: Extended (Heel & Toe) Gas Pedal Installation (Picture Heavy)

[habitat]

Hi Everyone, I heel & toe like nobodies business. Correction, actually I use my ball of foot & right side of foot (BOF&RSOF) like nobodies business. Pictured below are the points that touch each pedal.

I wear a size 9.5US mens shoe that are a bit on the slim side (driving shoes). As such, my FG2 is a PITA to drive because the gas pedal is too slim and too far from the brake pedal to BOF&RSOF properly. So through google I found ULTIMATE PEDALS.com where Rob already had a set made for our 8G civics! If you have the same problem as me, I highly recommend this product! Better yet, Rob said he is open to group buys that offer a discount. Please look below to view the install instructions and thanks for viewing.



Step 1: Overview of tools and parts needed.

• Pedal set w/ mounting hardware (to my surprise the screws were very high quality! not like the crap you find from ebay sets! Bolts are also available upon request)
• Drill bits, a drill, and a phillips bit (or phillips screwdriver)
• Instructions are provided, but who reads the instructions anyways?

Step 2: Remove the floor mat and use something (like supermarket bags) to mask off the surrounding area. You will have to drill out the rivets that hold the original pedal cover so this step is helpful to prevent a mess of metal shards in your footwell





Step 3: A close up of the rivets that will need to be drilled out (circled in red)





Step 4: Using a drill bit and drill (forget the size, but it was smaller then the actual head of the rivet), drill out the rivets.






Step 5: Remove the OEM aluminium pedal cover.





Step 6: A side-by-side comparison of the OEM cover and the ultimatepedals.com pedal. (notice how much freaking thicker this one is, you can stomp to your desire without worries of bending)





Step 7: Before moving forward, don't forget to fish out the back end of the rivets (likely to be behind the base of the pedal). Hmmm... there should have be five of those little suckers...





Step 8: Test fitting the pedal. All holes were countersunk and ready to accept a mounting screw, pick 4 holes (mine are circled in red) and mark it with a center punch, or the screw itself. Some people use masking tap and a pen. (BTW fitment is spot on)





Step 9: Pre-drill a hole through each mounting point and test fit the screw.





Step 10: Put it all together and here's your final product! As you can see it does not match the other pedals as well as my strutking deadpedal did, but the difference is barely noticeable. The ultimatepedal.com pedal was a little lighter but had the same exact brushed finish as the OEM pedal.
(update: strutking informed me that the reason it does not match perfectly is due to the different metals used. The OEM pedal uses brushed stainless steel, while the Ultimatepedals.com use brushed aluminium. If you ask me, you can barely tell, but I wanted to note this for you OCD ppl.)




Step 11: As you can see, now I can BOF&RSOF much easier than before!




NOW ENJOY BOF&RSOFing!

[Firestrife]

dude that is an awesome idea. definitely repping up for that.

[e60.deluxe]

rep. i ordered mine this morning.
also, you can get lower left pedals as well for those of you who heel toe that way. the company makes every pedal custom.

[sirgatti]

Nice write up!

If I end up getting some, I think I might get the ones with the grip inserts.

[stevediehlman]

If I bought it I'd have to have it match the factory pedals

[habitat]

Originally Posted by e60.deluxe

rep. i ordered mine this morning.
also, you can get lower left pedals as well for those of you who heel toe that way. the company makes every pedal custom.

Glad you've finally broken down and ordered some . This was a great product to be guinea pig of

Originally Posted by stevediehlman

If I bought it I'd have to have it match the factory pedals

I suppose it depends on how anal you are, the difference is very minimal. The ultimatepedals.com pedal seems to be raw aluminum while the OEM has a darker stain to it. With the camera's flash, it makes a bigger difference since the raw aluminum pedal reflects light. I think "step 6" compares the two colors best.

[dil2502]

would think about putting a layer of clear on it to prevent rust if it is raw aluminum

[e60.deluxe]

Originally Posted by habitat

Glad you've finally broken down and ordered some . This was a great product to be guinea pig of

well i actually ordered on Sunday morning. your PM made it sound as if it was a modified 993 pedal, but Rob assured me that its custom made for our 8th gens and the 993 link is only for order placing purposes.

will go nicley with my driving shoes which have a reinforced RSOF

[ley]

I actually use my heel, so the stock pedal is actually perfect for me. This looks cool though

[habitat]

Originally Posted by dil2502

would think about putting a layer of clear on it to prevent rust if it is raw aluminum

Aluminum corrodes but it does not rust. Rust refers only to iron and steel corrosion.

[Duce2k]

Great DIY...

[strutking]

nice DIY

[strutking]

Originally Posted by habitat

Glad you've finally broken down and ordered some . This was a great product to be guinea pig of



I suppose it depends on how anal you are, the difference is very minimal. The ultimatepedals.com pedal seems to be raw aluminum while the OEM has a darker stain to it. With the camera's flash, it makes a bigger difference since the raw aluminum pedal reflects light. I think "step 6" compares the two colors best.

the OEM Si pedals are stainless steel, your extended gas pedal is aluminum, thats why the colors and finishing dont match.

[habitat]

Originally Posted by strutking

the OEM Si pedals are stainless steel, your extended gas pedal is aluminum, thats why the colors and finishing dont match.

Good to know, thanks for the tip!

[marecki7]

You really don't need that, the stock gas pedal is just fine for heel/toe shifting. Than again I use my heel to tap the gas not the side of my foot. Also, you might forget and hit the gas pedal while braking by mistake (especially when you wear boots), since your new gas pedal is so close to the brake.

My $.02

[e60.deluxe]

Originally Posted by marecki7

You really don't need that, the stock gas pedal is just fine for heel/toe shifting. Than again I use my heel to tap the gas not the side of my foot. Also, you might forget and hit the gas pedal while braking by mistake (especially when you wear boots), since your new gas pedal is so close to the brake.

My $.02

Most sports/sporty cars have the gas and brake close to each other. the civic has them ridiculously far apart in comparison.

[dil2502]

Originally Posted by marecki7

You really don't need that, the stock gas pedal is just fine for heel/toe shifting. Than again I use my heel to tap the gas not the side of my foot. Also, you might forget and hit the gas pedal while braking by mistake (especially when you wear boots), since your new gas pedal is so close to the brake.

My $.02

i have tried that before but i just can't get the leg rotation that i need. maybe it is where i sit. i kind of sit close to the steering wheel, and my legs are kind of bent??

[marecki7]

My instructor at the track showed me this. Keep your foot parallel with the gas pedal (ie keep your heel straight with the gas pedal, not under the brake).

When you want to brake, just move your toes (top of your foot), not your heel. Always keep your heel on the bottom of the gas pedal when you want to down shift.

Before I went to the track, I've tried to use my toe/side of foot to downshift and I had lots of problems. I either broke too hard or gave too much gas. Sometimes, I also found myself pressing the gas while braking by accident. For me heel/toe works great, but for others it may not.

With the gas pedal in the link below you can't use your heel to rev up because it is too short:
http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/1...ition4.350.jpg
The gas pedal on Si is long and it touches the floor, thus allowing you to use your heel. If you look at the pictures in earlier posts in this thread, you will see that the bottom of the gas pedal in the Si is much thicker/wider than the top. It has been designed for that reason: heel/toe shifting, NOT toe/side of the foot.

Here is a link explaining it a bit further:
TurnFast : Heel-Toe Downshift

[marecki7]

Originally Posted by dil2502

i have tried that before but i just can't get the leg rotation that i need. maybe it is where i sit. i kind of sit close to the steering wheel, and my legs are kind of bent??

Seating position is also very important. Your seat should be adjusted properly. As my instructors informed me: your seat should be far enough so you can place you feet flat on the ground behind your pedals. In this position your knees should be almost straight, but when you move the feet to touch the pedals, knees will be slightly bent.

Back of the seat should be close enough so you can rest your wrists on top of the steering wheel with elbows straight. If you can't touch the steering wheel with the wrists, you are too far, and if the wrists are too far inn on the steering wheel you are too close.

It takes some time to get used to, but after you do it will make a huge difference.

I also use a CG Lock. Its a small inexpensive device, which locks the waist belt (prevents the lap belt from moving). Basically it prevents my hips from sliding while cornering.

[e60.deluxe]

Originally Posted by marecki7

Seating position is also very important. Your seat should be adjusted properly. As my instructors informed me: your seat should be far enough so you can place you feet flat on the ground behind your pedals. In this position your knees should be almost straight, but when you move the feet to touch the pedals, knees will be slightly bent.

Back of the seat should be close enough so you can rest your wrists on top of the steering wheel with elbows straight. If you can't touch the steering wheel with the wrists, you are too far, and if the wrists are too far inn on the steering wheel you are too close.

It takes some time to get used to, but after you do it will make a huge difference.

I also use a CG Lock. Its a small inexpensive device, which locks the waist belt (prevents the lap belt from moving). Basically it prevents my hips from sliding while cornering.

being 6'3" room is my problem. a further problem in the Si is that the seat doesnt really get that low for a sporty car. probably because its still based on a civic, but the seat sits very high off the floor of the car, even at the lowest position.

if you watch your knee when you make the rotation to use your heel, watch, your knee will raise. in the Si i dont have enough room for my knee to raise.

i agree that the bottom mounted pedals are designed for heel toe shifting (and why i lol everytime someone on this site says that sports cars shouldnt have bottom hinged pedals), but the knee room makes it impossible for me. i dont understand why you dont like people to use RSOF? everybody has a different body geometry, and turnfast.com is the ONLY website ive come across which doesnt make some mention of a RSOF Heel toe.

finally, take a look at Piloti where i bought my driving shoes. ALL of their driving shoes reinforce the sidewall of the right side of the right foot. why? drivign shoes have flexible soles, but they dont want the shoe to flex when your trying to do a RSOF heel toe.

oh and just FYI, i got my pedal today, and just placing it over and pressing the brake i have still have ample room in between the brake and gas pedal. now the room between the two pedals feels like it does is most cars.