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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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DIY - 007 Garage Door Opener
Let this be known at the “007 Garage Door Opener” mod.
Author: Michael Boyd Materials needed: -A momentary switch -Relatively small gauge wire -Soldering iron w/ solder Materials suggested: -Heat shrink tubing -A few small zip ties -Drill w/ drill bit 1.) First of all, you’ll need to pull the panel from your car. It snaps in place, just pull it off. 2.) Take your garage door opener apart. The common one I used can be pried apart at the base of the unit using the clip that comes on it. Get the board out and take a good look at it. You need to locate the physical switch that you want replicated. ![]() ![]() ![]() 3.) As you can see, the “door opener” switch is the one all alone over to the side. Flip it over and you’ll see four solder points in which it’s mounted. The two closest to the side on mine aren’t connected to anything; they’re there only to help mount it. The two others are connected to the traces, and that little switch is the only thing keeping the two from connecting. ![]() ![]() 4.) What you need to do is solder one wire to one of those solder joints, and another wire to the other one. You can test it out by touching the ends of the wires together and the door should open/shut. (Make sure the battery is in place!) If it doesn’t work, check your work. 5.) Now you need to get that case assembled back together and route the two wires outside of it. I drilled a hole through the back of the case where that clip used to be, and crammed the wires out of it. You should have the case back together completely with the wires sticking out of it. Touch the wires together once more to make sure it’s still working and you didn’t knock anything loose.. 6.) Next you need to drill the hole in the panel wherever you want the thing located. The switch I used (and supplied the link to) uses a ½” drill bit. Install the switch in place and screw the fastener on from behind. ![]() 7.) If you want to use the heat shrink tubing, slide it on the wires now. Next attach each wire to a prong on the back of the switch… doesn’t matter which one… just one a piece. Solder them in place and finish up your work with the heat shrink tubing if you want. Test it out. Zip tie the wires together if you'd like. ![]() 8.) Final step is to tape or glue the garage door opener device to the back of that panel. Install the panel back in your car and you’re done. ![]() Enjoy your new slick garage door opener! ![]() ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
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Nice job and nice location for the button. I did a similar thing just last night:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1227113 We used the same button, too funny. |
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#11 (permalink) | ||
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Quote:
I guess it's good we together explain how wire up both kinds of the door openers. Those two are by far the most common. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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VIP Member
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what bout positive and negative? does that matter in this case and how would you go about finding which is which???
Love the mod
__________________
![]() P2R TBS/TBGs / Fujita SRI / Skunk2 10th Anv. Knob/Radiator Cap StrutKing DP Cover / JDM Dipstick / Cleared Head/Tails / Auger Boot My Car Build Thread - Amilia |
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#13 (permalink) |
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VIP Member
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OK so I skipped over that part... it doesn't matter which wire goes to which..sorry. I do have a question though...what about if you remote using a 12V battery? Will the switch, wires and everything be compatible with that?
__________________
![]() P2R TBS/TBGs / Fujita SRI / Skunk2 10th Anv. Knob/Radiator Cap StrutKing DP Cover / JDM Dipstick / Cleared Head/Tails / Auger Boot My Car Build Thread - Amilia |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#17 (permalink) |
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VIP Member
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ism so excited to finish this.. I've soldered the wires to the remote, drilled the and drilled the hole...the only thing left is getting the part from radio shack tomorrow...
Awesome DIY
__________________
![]() P2R TBS/TBGs / Fujita SRI / Skunk2 10th Anv. Knob/Radiator Cap StrutKing DP Cover / JDM Dipstick / Cleared Head/Tails / Auger Boot My Car Build Thread - Amilia |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Member
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I don't have a garage now, but on my first S2000 I did a similar mod that uses no switches.
I soldered the switch to be always closed; Removed the battery; Wired the remote's battery connectors in-line with the high beam wires...access them under the hood about a foot away from the high beams themselves. To open the garage door, I simply flashed the high beams. The remote used a 9 volt battery, and obviously the high beams are using closer to 14.4 volts. Over a year later no damage had been done to the remote circuitry. I swear I had some additional range this way too. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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I might just try that... |
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