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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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not sure on the size of wire if i had to guess 12 gauge maybe, but i ran 8 gauge wire in through the grommet to both doors and it was a PITA. i was very close of just giving up, but i wanted it done properly and to look good. so in the end it was worth it. all i can say is have fun!
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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You're running EIGHT gauge speaker wire???
The factory wire is certainly not even close to 12-gauge. It is more like 18-22, but I was wondering if anyone knew for sure. If it were really 12-gauge, running new wires would be a complete waste of time. 12-gauge speaker wire is major overkill for just about anything. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I'm planning to have 100w on tap for each door speaker.
If the factory is 18ga, that's probably good enough for me. http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/spe...rassistant.swf :) Thanks guys. Last edited by toxin; 05-08-2008 at 12:28 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I don't think regardless the power I could ever be convinced of running anything larger than a good quality 16guage to any speaker.. Even a sub. I've heard 16 and 18 guage runs in good home systems which due to the quality of the cable and the better terminations, literally spank thick 12g lamp-chord. BUT, I do NOT condone spending silly money on it... Canare 4S11 at about a buck per foot is one of my favorites for 4-conductor biwire runs, for example.
Also, just running a single strand straight from amp to driver without any plug-terminals in any guage is going to be marginally to far better than having a bunch of harness-plug points between A and B... Even if you stay at 20 guage. That's probably your biggest benefit, I'd say. Here ya go.. Kimber 16g 4-conductor.. good for two or four drivers.. Kimber Kable - KWIK-16 In-Wall 16-Guage Speaker Cable-Audio Advisor Last edited by bsbabcock; 05-08-2008 at 12:44 PM. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Is this Ok?? it was my plan, seems easier than running new wires.Did we get an answer what gauge is the speaker wire, 07 civic here, I am also planing to run 100 RMS per channel x4 Using this AMP Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - MRP-F600 |
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#16 (permalink) |
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BEWARE THE REP!!!!
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I dont know if you already did it, but if not, here is a little trick to make running to the doors easier:
Find the wire where it enters the grommet leaving the cabin, go back about 1 foot or so of wire, cut the olf wire, connect the old wire to your new with a butt connector , pop off the door panel (You can find someone else to tell you how to do that), find the wire where it attaches to the speaker, and pull. Simple. I know some people are probably thinking Im an idiot for explaining this, but some people will try to just shove the wire through and make it harder than it really is.
__________________
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Age: 28
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Even Women Aren't Safe
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Well good luck doing that on the driver's side. There's a molex plug that will not allow other wires to fit through. I had my installer cut a new run with some wire loom and had it sealed off. He needed to run some real thin wires for my window module of the alarm and it wouldn't fit through the OEM sleeve.
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